Cannondale Creaking

[Nomadski]

Just as a little update. Took bike back into Evans shortly after last post, showed them the video and the mechanic was a bit shocked at how loud it was. Then he rode it round the shop and said he didn't realise it got this bad (wonder what he thought I was talking about when I said a "loud creaking noise").

Picked it up few days later, they had disassembled the whole BB area, cleaned, regreased and rebuilt it. Got it home, no creak. Went for a little ride (bout 8 miles) making sure I hit some hills and got home without incident.

So no creak, but if (am thinking more WHEN) it returns Ill be looking at an alternative BB adapter for sure, seems to me more parts down there equals more potential for rubbing and noise.

My chain seemed to be rubbing against a derailleur or something (it was making a noise while cycling) though while I was out, so now I have to read up on adjusting them. Shimano 105 all round if anyone has any good pointers for realigning whatever needs realigning to get smooth chain motion.

 

[Sittingduck]

It should be pretty easy to spot if it's rubbing on the front mech. You're not running a dodgy chainline are you, eg. big chainring at the front and biggest sprocket at the back?

 

[Rohloff_Brompton_Rider]

Called it...

 

[Banjo]

Just as a little update. Took bike back into Evans shortly after last post, showed them the video and the mechanic was a bit shocked at how loud it was. Then he rode it round the shop and said he didn't realise it got this bad (wonder what he thought I was talking about when I said a "loud creaking noise").

Picked it up few days later, they had disassembled the whole BB area, cleaned, regreased and rebuilt it. Got it home, no creak. Went for a little ride (bout 8 miles) making sure I hit some hills and got home without incident.

So no creak, but if (am thinking more WHEN) it returns Ill be looking at an alternative BB adapter for sure, seems to me more parts down there equals more potential for rubbing and noise.

My chain seemed to be rubbing against a derailleur or something (it was making a noise while cycling) though while I was out, so now I have to read up on adjusting them. Shimano 105 all round if anyone has any good pointers for realigning whatever needs realigning to get smooth chain motion.

Glad you got it sorted. you can find online tutors by googleing on adjusting Shimano front mech or similar . If its not far I would take it in and get the shop to do it.They shouild have set the front mech up properly after reinstalling the BB. Its quite crucial to get the stop screws set up correctly to stop the derailleur travelling too far in either direction.If the chain comes off on the inside it can scrape away at your frame as well as possibly making you crash

 

[Nomadski]

It should be pretty easy to spot if it's rubbing on the front mech. You're not running a dodgy chainline are you, eg. big chainring at the front and biggest sprocket at the back?

Excuse my ignorance but why is this dodgy? I pretty much always tend to stay on the big chainring at the front, only going to the smaller one when I hit a big hill. Sit on the bigger sprocket at back to get clean getaway when I stop at lights etc.

 

[Sittingduck]

If the chain is running in a diagonal line, it will increase the speed at which it is worn out, same for the cassette. It will also most likely rub on the front mech - causing the noise.

 

[Nomadski]

So what is good practice when your on relatively flat route? Rather than just using big front chainring to switch between big and small? I just find the small chainring too easy a gear for anything but hard hills.

 

[Sittingduck]

*Going a bit OT here - sorry*

Personally, I leave it in the big ring and use the third largest sprocket as my 'getting away from the lights' gear. I tend to use the next 3 or 4 available sprockets on the cassette. I think the range is something like 66 gear inches - 85 (on a 12-27 cassette). You're right about the small ring being too spinny for flat stuff but everybody is different - just depends on so many things. People will say that 3rd sprocket down is still a bad chainline but I have never had much chainrub or worn out drivetrain quickly.

 

[Nomadski]

BB30 Wars Episode VI: Return of the Creak!

Mucking about on the bike today I noticed my creaky BB30 adapters were rearing their ugly head again, also noticed slight lateral movement in the cranks when I try moving with my hands (apparently signs of dodgy bearings?). Pretty much had it with my BB30 adapter now and want to get something which will be more reliable, and perform much better.

Have Shimano 105 cranks and a BB30 bottom bracket, so looking for a good quality adapter of some sort compatible with both.

Have seen the the conversion bottom bracket from Praxis Works which looks decent quality, but very expensive - http://praxiscycles.com/pages/conversion

Any other suggestions or recommendations for the above?

 

[billy1561]

I had a synapse that had a faulty bb30 and at the 2nd failure the Lbs replaced it with a sram free under warranty.

 

[the_mikey]

All of my creaks have came from these sources:

Bottom Bracket - Removed cranks and BB, fitted replacement BB, cleaned and greased cranks and re-fitted. Creak gone (this was probably unnecessary but I did it anyway)

Pedals - Look Keo pedals are notorious for creaks, removed pedal shafts/bearings,cleaned and re-greased, reassembled. Creak gone.
Bottle cages - Tightened bottle cages.
Spokes - Taken wheels to LBS for spokes to be re-tensioned.
In-line cable adjusters - These were rubbing against each other making a creaking sound, re-wrapped bar tape taking care when positioning cable adjusters to prevent further contact.

 

[smokeysmoo]

Any other suggestions or recommendations for the above?

I fitted THIS FSA one in my CAAD10. It is regarded as a permanent fit, (especially if you have a cf frame), but as its sounds like your through with BB30 anyway I wouldn't think twice.

Since I fitted mine and HTII cranks I've never had a single BB noise related issue

 

[mark st1]

I fitted THIS FSA one in my CAAD10. It is regarded as a permanent fit, (especially if you have a cf frame), but as its sounds like your through with BB30

I have one of those adapters unused but in an opened packet will let go for £7. posted.

 

[potsy]

I fitted THIS FSA one in my CAAD10. It is regarded as a permanent fit, (especially if you have a cf frame), but as its sounds like your through with BB30 anyway I wouldn't think twice.

Since I fitted mine and HTII cranks I've never had a single BB noise related issue

How easy are they to fit?
My BB30 seems OK at the minute but might change it to H2 at some future point.

 

[400bhp]

BB30 Wars Episode VI: Return of the Creak!

Mucking about on the bike today I noticed my creaky BB30 adapters were rearing their ugly head again, also noticed slight lateral movement in the cranks when I try moving with my hands (apparently signs of dodgy bearings?). Pretty much had it with my BB30 adapter now and want to get something which will be more reliable, and perform much better.

Have Shimano 105 cranks and a BB30 bottom bracket, so looking for a good quality adapter of some sort compatible with both.

Have seen the the conversion bottom bracket from Praxis Works which looks decent quality, but very expensive - http://praxiscycles.com/pages/conversion

Any other suggestions or recommendations for the above?

IIRC @Pedrosanchezo spent a bit of time researching the adapters. Hopefully he can help.