MattHB
Proud Daddy
- Location
- Deepest darkest Dorset
for me its almost ALWAYS been this
Cannondale Creaking
- Thread starter Nomadski
- Start date
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for me its almost ALWAYS been this
amaferanga
Veteran
- Location
- Bolton
But it's not his problem since it creaks when he's out of the saddle. Pretty obviously not a saddle creak from the video as well.
fossyant
Ride It Like You Stole It!
- Location
- South Manchester
Bars/stem, BB out refit the lot, pedals off, refit.
1 at a time, but I would start with the BB and pedals.
1 at a time, but I would start with the BB and pedals.
Sittingduck
Legendary Member
- Location
- Somewhere flat
Cleat?
OP
OP
Nomadski
I Like Bikes
- Location
- LBS, Usually
Its just plain boring flat pedals, no cleats involved.
Ive got a funny feeling Evans didn't grease anything when they fitted the crankset. I say this because the first time I took it in, and someone quickly disassembled the crank / BB then gave a clean and put together again, I didn't notice anything goo related going on. I doubt they greased the pedals either.
Going to ask them to grease as well as try a new set of pedals tomorrow, what exactly should I be asking them to grease bearing in mind the weird adapter I have in the BB?
Be useful to know what to ask so I dont come across as the uninformed fool that I really am with bikes.
Wobblers
Euthermic
- Location
- Minkowski Space
This. I had a similar creak on my Cannondale Caad10 which was caused by a loose crank bolt. Make sure all the bolts on the spider are fully tightened.
mickle
innit
- Location
- 53.933606, -1.076131
Cannondale frames occasionally suffer from an internal creak caused by the way the mitred ends of the tubes butt up against each other under the welds. The fix is to slosh some thin lube around indide the tubes. Take the fork out and access the top and down tubes via the head tube breather holes.
Or its something else.
Or its something else.
ask them for tf2 lithium grease £4 for a small tub, and a pedal spanner
and do it yourself saves you the hassle of going back...then when home get an allen key out and tighten bolts and screws
thats for a start
amaferanga
Veteran
- Location
- Bolton
The mechanic should know exactly where to put grease. I know nothing about BB30, but I'd be very surprised if nowhere on the BB30/adapter assembly requires a smear of grease.
Eribiste
Careful with that axle Eugene
- Location
- Eckington, Worcestershire
I used to get precisely the same cyclical (no pun intended) noise from my Pashley, in time with the pedal strokes, which led me astray, because it turned out to be a loosened head stem nut. I know you haven't got the same design of head, but I would still check the stem fixings.
one check at a time, check, test ride, check, test ride 'til it's gone. Happy hunting!
Oh, and if you do find the culprit, please come back to us on the forum to add to our collective knowledge
one check at a time, check, test ride, check, test ride 'til it's gone. Happy hunting!
Oh, and if you do find the culprit, please come back to us on the forum to add to our collective knowledge
smokeysmoo
Legendary Member
- Location
- Bolton, not very far from Nob End
Plenty options to go at HERE
FWIW I converted my Cannondale from the dreaded BB30 to Hollowtech II, but rather than the cup adapters you've used I used one of THESE as I have no intention of ever going back to BB30.
My bike has been perfect ever since
If you plan to stick with HTII, (my advice, FWIW would be to do so), then you might want to think about fitting the FSA adapter instead.
FWIW I converted my Cannondale from the dreaded BB30 to Hollowtech II, but rather than the cup adapters you've used I used one of THESE as I have no intention of ever going back to BB30.
My bike has been perfect ever since
If you plan to stick with HTII, (my advice, FWIW would be to do so), then you might want to think about fitting the FSA adapter instead.
