cadence

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GrasB

Veteran
Location
Nr Cambridge
I'll tend to sit around the 90-95rpm area when pack racing at 200w or so, that's about 10-15 rpm down on normal for 200w & a good +20rpm down for >350w. The reason for that is when someone does something unexpected I don't need to get into the right gear, I've got a clean settled gear for a kick & I just respond.
 
I never knew what mine was until I got a cadence measuring computer. I used to aim or what I 'thought' was 90. I now know I do pretty much bang on 100rpm - my averages are consistently in the 98-102 bracket. it's what works for me, and I'd describe myself as a 'fast commuter', but not anywhere near a competitive cyclist :smile:
 
I've only had a cadence meter fitted to my best bike and it seems my cadence on really hilly sportives and hill climbs could range from 59rpm to about 83 rpm and on flatter club rides around 89rpm on the rollers I'm averaging 85-93rpm. I probably should spin more, I prefer to be able to up my cadence when I need to though :wacko:
 

GrasB

Veteran
Location
Nr Cambridge
I never knew what mine was until I got a cadence measuring computer. I used to aim or what I 'thought' was 90. I now know I do pretty much bang on 100rpm - my averages are consistently in the 98-102 bracket. it's what works for me, and I'd describe myself as a 'fast commuter', but not anywhere near a competitive cyclist :smile:
What crank length do you ride on of curiosity?
 

GrasB

Veteran
Location
Nr Cambridge
1.8m/s foot speed... that puts you in a nice striking distance of your maximum power (which is produced around 2.25m/s +/-0.1 m/s) under most conditions.
 
1.8m/s foot speed... that puts you in a nice striking distance of your maximum power (which is produced around 2.25m/s +/-0.1 m/s) under most conditions.

If that was a reply to me... it's gone over my head! Is there a short way to explain what foot speed is?
 

GrasB

Veteran
Location
Nr Cambridge
If that was a reply to me... it's gone over my head! Is there a short way to explain what foot speed is?
The speed at which the your foot is travelling at around the pedal circle. If you were to constantly ride at around 2.25m/s foot speed by default (124.5rpm on your cranks) you would be reducing your recovery time for a ride to the absolute minimum.

Foot speed also comes into it when comparing cadence at different crank lengths, what would seem like a nice healthy 80rpm, on 110mm cranks would actually be like turning the pedals at 50rpm on 170mm cranks!
 
Location
Pontefract
Foot speed also comes into it when comparing cadence at different crank lengths, what would seem like a nice healthy 80rpm, on 110mm cranks would actually be like turning the pedals at 50rpm on 170mm cranks!
Correct me if I am wrong here, but the length of crank length is irrelevant, in term of r.p.m. in a given gear, one r.p.m. of the crank for example a 52th front and 13th rear gives a 4:1 ratio so a 110mm crank length will turn the rear 4 times as will a 170mm crank length, the longer crank will lower the overall gearing because you have a greater circumference to travel, giving more leverage. if my understanding is correct.
 

MrJamie

Oaf on a Bike
Correct me if I am wrong here, but the length of crank length is irrelevant, in term of r.p.m. in a given gear, one r.p.m. of the crank for example a 52th front and 13th rear gives a 4:1 ratio so a 110mm crank length will turn the rear 4 times as will a 170mm crank length, the longer crank will lower the overall gearing because you have a greater circumference to travel, giving more leverage. if my understanding is correct.
I think so too, but the greater leverage on the longer cranks needs your foot to move further per rotation so at a higher footspeed. I think GrasB's post would imply that with much longer cranks, you'd pedal a slower rpm, with the same footspeed, but presumably a harder gear ratio (with the higher leverage), so it would appear more grindy in cadence terms, but its the same output... i think ;)
 
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