Cadence vs higher gears

[Licramite]

sorry I couldnt get the link to work but this gives some advice on preformance tips sitesorry its a bit long but all sounds sensible stuff. hell I might even try some of it!Form and Technique This page will compile a number of comments on form and technique

Pedaling

Smooth pedal stroke

• Using a fixed gear bike to improve smoothness in your pedal stroke.
  Use of a fixed gear bike will focus you on your pedaling technique as well as increasing leg speed and strength. The mechanics of a fixed-gear bike require you to pedal as long as the bike is moving forward. Inexperienced riders should consider using a fixed-gear bike on a stationary trainer for the first couple of rides.
  Pedaling continuously will develop a smooth pedal stroke as you spin down hills and increases leg strength as you climb the hills. Generally, gearing for a fixed-gear bike will be light (42x19, or about 60 gear inches), which is a nice balance for various types of terrain.
  You might consider using an old road bike, adding a fixed-gear rear wheel from a used bike shop. Unthread your chain from the rear derailleur, shorten it, and place it around the small chainring in front and the single rear cog, and you're done. You can also use a track bike for this purpose. You will need to install at least one brake before you go out on the road.
  
• One-Leg Pedaling
  One-leg pedaling is another approach to adding strength (and variety to your indoor training at the same time). Normally, when you pedal with both legs, the leg that pulls the foot through the bottom of the stroke and back up to the top of the 360 degree "cycle" is under used (as the other leg, when pushing the crank through the downstroke has significantly more power and thus allows a bit of slacking).
  Learning to pedal a complete, 360-degree circle with both legs working together will make you a better rider. Practicing with one legged drills will embed this idea into your pedaling style.
  
  1. Warm up on the trainer for 20 minutes while pedaling with both legs.
  2. Unclip one foot from the pedal. Rest it on a chair or stool just outside the left pedal circle.
  3. Pedal at 90 rpm using your right leg, using an easy gear until you get accustomed to the feeling of one-leg pedaling. The muscles that lift your thigh and push the pedal over the top will fatigue quickly at first, but you'll improve rapidly.
  4. After a few minutes, switch to the other leg.

Cadence - If you're relatively new to cycling, you are probably riding at a cadence that is below your optimum. Most new riders think they are getting a better workout if every pedal stoke is a strain and the quads are burning. Although there's a place for low-cadence workouts, during a normal ride, aim for a smooth spin at between 85-100 rpm (pedal revolutions per minute) which is much more efficient -- and easier on the legs, especially the knees.
Lance Armstrong has popularized high-cadence pedaling. He spins at about 90 rpm on even the steepest climbs, and he's regularly over 100 rpm in time trials. Does this mean you should be pedaling at a high cadence as well? Although your cadence can be increased through training, it may not fit with your personal physiology and biomechanics.
The make-up of your leg muscles (the ratio of fast-twitch to slow-twitch fibers), combined with your fitness, will self-select your cadence. For most experienced riders, ideal cadence is in the range of 80-100 rpm - and most tend to automatically pedal at around 90 rpm in normal condition . Non-cyclists tend to spin a bit lower at around 60-70 rpm.
Try this to see what cadence may be the best target for you.

1. Locate a protected 2-mile stretch of road (without significant cross streets or traffic). Ideally slightly rolling.
2. After you warm up for 15 minutes, ride the route hard in your biggest gear. Note your finish time and your heart rate if you have a monitor.
3. Recover for 15 to 20 minutes with easy spinning.
4. Ride the course again at the same heart rate (or perceived exertion if you don't have a monitor). But this time choose a rear cog that's one or two steps larger and allows you to keep your cadence about 100 rpm. Note your time for the same course.
5. After a day or two of rest, do the test in reverse - larger rear cog (lower gear ratio) first.
6. Compare your times. For most riders, the lower gear and higher cadence will produce faster times for less perceived effort.

Here are two drills that may be helpful in increasing your cadence and maintaining the smooth spin of a veteran.

• Use a down hill to practice. Spin in a small gear on a slight descent, then gradually increase your cadence until your pelvis begins bouncing on the saddle. Back off about 5 rpm so (the bouncing stops). Hold that cadence and concentrate on a smooth pedal stroke for one minute. Cruise back up the hill and do it again. Relaxation is the key to pedaling at a high cadence without bouncing. Keep your elbows, shoulders and hips loose.
• Use a that tailwind that you have stumbled across. Shift into a moderate gear and gradually increase your cadence until you're at 100-110 rpm. Hold it there for 30 seconds, then gradually ease back to 80 rpm. Repeat several times.

How do you estimate your cadence if you don't have a cadence fundtion on your computer? Set your computer display oto show seconds show. Using your right foot, count how many times it is at the bottom of the stroke during a 15 (or 30) second interval. Then then multiply by 4 (or 2). That will help you develop a sense of what 90-100 rpm feels like.

Shifting

The secret to smooth shifting, especially on hills, lies in planning. Anticipate you'll need an easier gear and shift a few seconds ahead of time - including shifting to an easier gear at the bottom of the hill while you still have momentum.
Just as you move the lever, ease up pedal pressure. The shift will occur during one crank revolution. If you time it right, you won't lose significant speed. And if you are worried, push a bit harder for several strokes before lightening the pressure on the shift stroke.
Bottom line: Any time you shift either derailleur, be conscious of your pedal pressure. Shifts made during a moderate application of power have the best chance of being smooth and quick.

Paceline Training

Paceline Skills. A great way to improve paceline skills while limiting risks. Excerpted from www.roadbikerider.com.
"With a few friends, find a hill several hundred yards long. It doesn't have to be steep. Ride up in a paceline. Work on pedaling smoothly and maintaining 12-18 > inches between bikes. Here's the key to this drill: Keep the speed low. Around 5-7 mph is perfect. Everyone should be pedaling with the same cadence. No one should be struggling to keep the pace. Low speed ingrains smooth technique. In a normal paceline, if you speed up, you quickly overrun the next wheel. If you let a gap open, it takes effort to close and this messes up riders behind. But at slow speed on a gradual hill, there's less penalty for mistakes -- and you can simply put a foot down if you make one. Trade the front position after short pulls. Just 20-30 minutes of this slow-motion drill will make you and your friends noticeably better when you're in a paceline that's traveling 3 times faster."
And a second article, same e-zine (roadbikerider.com):
"Catch a draft! The best way to learn good drafting technique is to pair up with an experienced rider. So if you're an old hand, help a new rider learn. If you're a newbie, find a grizzled vet who's willing to help. In this example, we'll assume you're the rookie.

• Ride at a moderate pace on a low-traffic road. Put your front wheel about 3 feet behind your guru's rear wheel. As you feel comfortable and confident, get a bit closer -- maybe 2 feet, then 18 inches.
  • Notice how the draft is stronger when you're closer to your partner's wheel, weaker as you drift back. Notice how you feel more draft when speed increases.
  • Feel how the draft moves slightly to the side in a crosswind. Protection increases to the right of your partner's wheel when the wind is from the left, and vice versa.
• Good drafting depends on smooth, even pedaling. If you pedal and coast, pedal and coast, you'll find yourself getting too close to your partner or too far back. Keep the crank turning and use slightly more or less pedaling force to maintain a constant gap.
• Now practice rotating the lead.
  • The front rider checks over her shoulder for traffic, drifts a couple of feet to one side (determined by wind direction, road conditions or traffic) and slows slightly by soft-pedaling.
  • You take the lead not by accelerating but by keeping your speed constant as your partner slows. Pedaling will feel a bit harder because you're bucking the wind. Glance at your cyclecomputer to make sure your speed stays steady.
  • Stay close as you pass each other while rotating the lead. The closer your shoulders are, the less wind each of you will be pushing and the narrower your combined width. That's important so motorists can deal safely with your presence.
  • When you're the person dropping back, begin accelerating slightly when your front wheel is beside your partner's rear wheel. Then you can slip in behind before a gap opens."

Cornering

There are two challenges in cornering technique. The first is avoiding a loss of momentum when you are in a competitive situation and the other is just the opposite with too mush speed going into the corner and the edge of the road rapidly approaching.
Slowing too much
The secret here is to keep your momentum during turns. Novice riders will waste their momentum when cornering, while the more experienced will sweep through the curve and open a gap that costs others precious energy to close. Corner after corner, this efficiency really adds up.
A few tips:

• Shift down before the turn. If the corner is tight (which will naturally make you slow), shift into a lower gear before you enter the corner, stop pedaling, and start leaning the bike. If you are in too large a gear, it will take more time to get back your momentum.
• Practice standing versus sitting when exiting the curve. Cornering soaks up your speed, so you may choose to stand and sprint to regain momentum. However, standing uses more energy so in wide, sweeping corners you may opt to stay seated, and work a little harder to keep contact with the group (especially in a downhill turn). There are additional benefits of standing out of corners.
  • You use body weight to power the pedals and the tendency to shift to a lower gear.
  • Standing avoids the temptation to use more forceful pedal strokes in the saddle and increase knee strain.
  • Standing relieves saddle pressure - and even a few seconds will add up to decrease discomfort over the ride.
  • Standing will stretch your legs - and back. This will combat the stiffness that occurs with long rides.
  If you get in the habit of standing for a few strokes after most turns, even if it isn't necessary to stay with the group, you'll ride more comfortably.
• Be prepared to sprint. Be ready to invest a sudden burst of energy after each turn. But if you can stay seated, and still stay with the bunch, it will save you energy to use on that final sprint at the end of the day or in the hillier sections.

Going too fast

• Lean into the curve. It's better to increase your cornering angle even though you may lose traction and fall to the inside. Consider the alternative - slide down or ride off the outside of the road and hit things like guardrails or trees with more than just road rash to deal with.
• Stand. Give your tires more grip by standing and putting most of your weight on your outside pedal. Virtually all of your weight should be on it. Push your bike into the turn. The bike should always be angled more than your body.
• Brake early, then not. Take off as much speed as you can before the turn, then release the levers. This goes against instinct, but braking in a turn makes a bike want to straighten, the opposite of what you need it to do. You can also feather the rear brake, but be ready to let up if the wheel grabs and threatens your control. Don't even think about using the front brake while turning. It is a sure way to send the bike where you're aren't aiming or cause the front wheel to slide out abruptly.

Eye On Your Line
Use your eyes to corner better. The next time you take a corner at speed, concentrate on eying your line. Don't stare directly in front of your wheel, watching for debris, cracks or potholes. You won't notice even more dangerous obstacles farther ahead. Instead, "sweep" the whole corner with your eyes before you enter.

• Check your entry This is the section of pavement where you enter the turn and begin to lean the bike. Look for gravel, oil, potholes, slippery leaves, anything that could loosen your tires' grip.
• Check the apex of your arc. Cracked pavement where the concrete curb meets the blacktop is a common danger. So is water -- from sprinklers or puddles on the roadside. In winter, this might be ice.
• Check the exit. Sweep your eyes ahead, through the turn and up the road on the line you're riding. Don't let yourself spy the trouble as you are coming out of a successful corner.

Then, just before you begin the turn, look through it to visualize the correct line. The trick is to visualize your line just before you begin to lean the bike. Then you can spot hazards and make adjustments without risking control. Remember, the bike goes where you look. Focus on the best line all the way through the turn and that's the path your wheels will take.
It always helps to have another point of view. Here are a few tips sent to me by a coach in Maylasia, Nick Flyger. (Thanks Nick)
"For fast, accurate and safe cornering I teach people the following (most to least important)..."

• Look where you want to go and ALSO shift your pelvis on the seat so it faces into the corner.
• Keep you chest close to your top tube and handle bars, lowers the centre of gravity and prevents the unstable feeling. On highspeed descents I am practically kissing my handlebars.
• Point your inside knee into the turn by sticking it inwards towards the apex of the corner. Some people (Lance among them) say keep it tucked on the tube. I feel this makes it harder to lower your centre of gravity, also GP motorbike riders practically put that inside knee on the ground and they are going much faster!
• Keep pressure off the inside pedal but keep pressure on the outside pedal. However, that force must be directed vertical towards the ground not directed down the vertical line of the bike which is leaning inwards. Doing this correctly adds additional force in the direction of gravity helping to increase the friction on the tire and prevent it sliding out on you.
• As you make the turn keep pressure on the outside hand. Sounds a little weird... "Turn the opposite way of the turn" but the front tire acts like a gyroscope, so pushing away from the turn causes the bike to lean into the turn! It's one of the reasons kids find it hard to learn to ride a bike. However once they gain confidence they go faster, the angular momentum of the wheel then helps them to stay upright because it is harder to turn the handle bars to lean or corner the bike, where as at slow speeds it is easy to over adjust and hit the pavement.

Precision Steering (look where you want to go)

Ever want to ride on a narrow strip - white line at the edge of the road or a surface with the grooves running the direction you are going? For example a bridge with a surface of flat timbers going the direction of the road? Or avoid a pothole or wet manhole cover (which can be as slippery as ice)?
Here are two secrets that might help:

• The first is to keep your eyes focused 20 - 30 feet ahead.
  Don't look down at the front wheel. It's tempting to look just ahead of the front wheel to make sure it's going where you want it to. But this results in frequent steering corrections that translate into wobbles that make you lose your line. You can practice on the road by riding on the white line along the edge of the road. Remember to keep your focus 20 or 30 feet ahead.
  
• The second is to look where you want to head, not at the obstacle you want to avoid.
  

The common factor is to look where you want to go as staring at an obstacle makes you track to it. Your body (and bike) follows your eyes. First look at the obstacle to remember where it is, but then train your eyes on the best line around it. Let your peripheral vision, keep tabs on what you want to miss.

 

[Fasta Asloth]

For my tuppence worth...

Perhaps some more 'respectable' scientific data on the subject, make of it what you will, but to me sounds like it supports BnY's position more.... interestingly they also looked at the influence of fibre type composition... Extract taken after a search of pubmed (database of more respectable scientific publications, mostly peer reviewed.. http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed).

Effect of pedaling rates and myosin heavy chain composition in the vastus lateralis muscle on the power generating capability during incremental cycling in humans.

Source

Department of Physiology and Biochemistry, Faculty of Rehabilitation, University School of Physical Education, Kraków, Poland. joanna.majerczak@awf.krakow.pl
Abstract

In this study, we have determined power output reached at maximal oxygen uptake during incremental cycling exercise (P(I, max)) performed at low and at high pedaling rates in nineteen untrained men with various myosin heavy chain composition (MyHC) in the vastus lateralis muscle. On separate days, subjects performed two incremental exercise tests until exhaustion at 60 rev min(-1) and at 120 rev min(-1). In the studied group of subjects P(I, max) reached during cycling at 60 rev min(-1) was significantly higher (p=0.0001) than that at 120 rev min(-1) (287+/-29 vs. 215+/-42 W, respectively for 60 and 120 rev min(-1)). For further comparisons, two groups of subjects (n=6, each) were selected according to MyHC composition in the vastus lateralis muscle: group H with higher MyHC II content (56.8+/-2.79 %) and group L with lower MyHC II content in this muscle (28.6+/-5.8 %). P(I, max) reached during cycling performed at 60 rev min(-1) in group H was significantly lower than in group L (p=0.03). However, during cycling at 120 rev min(-1), there was no significant difference in P(I, max) reached by both groups of subjects (p=0.38). Moreover, oxygen uptake (VO(2)), blood hydrogen ion [H(+)], plasma lactate [La(-)] and ammonia [NH(3)] concentrations determined at the four highest power outputs completed during the incremental cycling performed at 60 as well as 120 rev min(-1), in the group H were significantly higher than in group L. We have concluded that during an incremental exercise performed at low pedaling rates the subjects with lower content of MyHC II in the vastus lateralis muscle possess greater power generating capabilities than the subjects with higher content of MyHC II. Surprisingly, at high pedaling rate, power generating capabilities in the subjects with higher MyHC II content in the vastus lateralis muscle did not differ from those found in the subjects with lower content of MyHC II in this muscle, despite higher blood [H(+)], [La(-)] and [NH(3)] concentrations. This indicates that at high pedaling rates the subjects with higher percentage of MyHC II in the vastus lateralis muscle perform relatively better than the subjects with lower percentage of MyHC II in this muscle.


There is a link to the full article here for your bedtime reading....http://www.biomed.cas.cz/physiolres/pdf/57/57_873.pdf

Still looking at the other papers that have been published in the genuine scientific lit to see how reproducuble above data is...

 

[Sittingduck]

1.21 Jigawatts??!!

 

[david k]

"For most riders, the lower gear and higher cadence will produce faster times for less perceived effort." Interesting

 

[Fasta Asloth]

"For most riders, the lower gear and higher cadence will produce faster times for less perceived effort." Interesting

Or, for impartiality, you could also quote this...... from an actual study? "In the studied group of subjects P(I, max) reached during cycling at 60 rev min(-1) was significantly higher (p=0.0001) than that at 120 rev min(-1) (287+/-29 vs. 215+/-42 W, respectively for 60 and 120 rev min(-1))"

i.e. in this study, with the particular subjects used under set conditions - more power was generated at the lower rpm when maximal oxygen uptake is reached....

 

[Noodle Legs]

So, Loki421,

As you can see there's a lot of different approaches, mindsets and theories behind getting your cadence right, but from what I can fathom and I am not a pro and get bored with the technical Vo2/watts per revolution,Number of teeth on the ring I am using and whether I sit/stand/grind/spin on my big/small/wiry/super-dense muscle-fibre count, geomerty, triginometry, agebraic calculative....... aRGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH

I try to sit, and spin at a comfortable rate until I need/want to push it and find I improve as time and distance goes by.
No matter what, you will get good days, you will get great days, and you will get days when you think that you have had your legs replaced with pink sticks, but whatever you want to do, DO IT YOUR WAY and you will progress.

+1
Sounds like the words of common sense to me!

Unless you are a pro or seriously competing why fry your brain with technical jargon which then leads you to overthink every aspect of your ride? For me it kills the whole ethos of why I ride in the first place- enjoyment!

If I was out for a ride the last thing I want on my mind is whether I achieved x watts/min or what my vo2 max is....I would just get tense worrying about all that and that would hinder my performance

 

[400bhp]

+1
Sounds like the words of common sense to me!

Unless you are a pro or seriously competing why fry your brain with technical jargon which then leads you to overthink every aspect of your ride? For me it kills the whole ethos of why I ride in the first place- enjoyment!

If I was out for a ride the last thing I want on my mind is whether I achieved x watts/min or what my vo2 max is....I would just get tense worrying about all that and that would hinder my performance

Shh, don't tell GrasB

 

[Noodle Legs]

Shh, don't tell GrasB

lol

Just a thought!

 

[GrasB]

Shh, don't tell GrasB

What because I understand why automatic transmissions shifting doesn't work for cyclists? Put it this way I know of a very enthusiastic leisure/touring cyclists who has ridden on a NuVinci Harmony equipped bike. They then went out & purchased an N360 with manual shifting because the automatic shifting only managed to detract from an otherwise very nice & easy to use hub gear.

 

[Licramite]

I can see the problem with automatic gears on bikes for cyclists - but for non cyclists they would have a place.
for a cyclist they would be constantly putting the gars upto his candence and making him grind instead of allowing him the option of spinning.
but for non cyclists it would make life easier , I was out with some women who were non cyclists (not that I,m one really) and I was constantly telling them to change down as they were struggling with inclines.

 

[400bhp]

What because I understand why automatic transmissions shifting doesn't work for cyclists? Put it this way I know of a very enthusiastic leisure/touring cyclists who has ridden on a NuVinci Harmony equipped bike. They then went out & purchased an N360 with manual shifting because the automatic shifting only managed to detract from an otherwise very nice & easy to use hub gear.

I've never fully understood one of your posts.