david k
Hi
- Location
- North West
So there are no more Boardman CX Comps attm in 57.5.
I've emailed to find out timescales but the other option is to squeeze a bit more money out of my meagre budget.
Still under £1k but I've broken it down to either:
1) Canondale CaddX Tiagra or Sora (tho the former has no front eyelets apparently - this right?)
2) Merida Cyclocross 300
3) I may be able to source a Whyte Dorset for under £800
4) Or get the CX Team - again no eyelets
Thoughts?
It is crazy how many different ways they use!
I am not interested in seat tube length because the saddle just goes up or down to suit. The top tube is more important because there is a limit to how much I want to mess with stem length or saddle setback.
The other measurement which I look for is steerer tube (?) length. I am not terribly flexible so don't want too much of a drop to the bars. 7 cm is about my limit and that implies a tube length of about 18 cm with most frames. If the frame is too small, then shoving the saddle up gives too big a drop to the bars.
I have done that on both of my current road bikes. It makes a surprising difference. It not only raises the bars, but pulls them back a bit.another worry for me is the drop, i like to be sat up more, particulalrly if i want long day rides or touring, can you switch the head tube thingy round to bring the bars up a bit?
I went on a 55 as suggested on here but noooo waaayyy at 6'2" was it big enoughi was thinking of getting a cx team but at 6'2" I was worried about sizing
i want a winter bike which may double as a tourer in the summer
are they brining out a 2015 soon?
Want to put mudguards on front and back and a pannier rack on back. Can use zip ties etc but it's just so much easier.excuse my ignorance but why do we need eyelets?
thanks for reply, i only have this month to get my c2w voucher, its open just in november, maybe i could get the voucher and wait for the bike?I went on a 55 as suggested on here but noooo waaayyy at 6'2" was it big enoughOnline the CXTeam as a 57.5 but the CX Comp will not be delivered to the UK until 17th December and so not in the shops till round the 20th.
Want to put mudguards on front and back and a pannier rack on back. Can use zip ties etc but it's just so much easier.
It's the difference between just bolting them on and bodging them on!can you not put mudgaurds on without the eyelets? id want mudgaurds front and back and a pannier on the back also
went into halfords and sat on a 55 and was surprised at how big it was, it would probably be fine for me but was recommened to go for the 57.5 and i agreeI went on a 55 as suggested on here but noooo waaayyy at 6'2" was it big enoughOnline the CXTeam as a 57.5 but the CX Comp will not be delivered to the UK until 17th December and so not in the shops till round the 20th.
It's the difference between just bolting them on and bodging them on!
I don't have a problem switching between my drop-barred road bikes and my wide-barred MTB, but I have not yet vigorously ridden a drop-barred bike offroad. I have ridden my current bikes on some mild roughstuff but I was worried about damaging them or me so I rode very slowly and carefully. A CX bike would take a lot more punishment!
I would spend the extra £300 to get a significantly lighter bike made from better components.is the team worth 300 more than the comp?
I would spend the extra £300 to get a significantly lighter bike made from better components.
You can get a better bike by spending more*** but the law of diminishing returns eventually sets in. It is a personal choice where you set the spending limit. For example - if I had the money, I would spend more than £2k on a bike, but I wouldn't spend £10k. OTOH, I would not go lower than £300 for a new bike because corners would have to be cut to meet that price point, and I would definitely prefer to spend more than £500. There are lots of nice bikes about now costing £800 - £1,000.
*** Up to a point - I don't think that a bike costing £20k would be significantly better than one costing £10k!