Halfords quote the real seat tube rather than virtual for bike sizes so its nearer a 58 i think, looking at the measurements it has a 585 effective top tube with a 110 stemA 50mm stem sounds incredibly short for a road bike. Sounds like the bike is too big, although that's weird for a 54cm at 6ft (I am being 5'9 and 5'10 and ride a 54cm with a 100mm stem, and being female, height more in legs than torso and arms)
Maybe , hard to say without seeing a piccie of the OP on the bike .Then it may still be too big, 58 for 6 footer? If he needs a 50mm stem, 5cm is nothing?
from 110 to 50mm is a big jump , did you try the bike before you bought it . re gears this will ease you through the process
View: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SkzvfCaIbyQ
But it's 'educated' speculation which may or may not be a bad thing. Pretty much I suspect that the bike is a little too big for me. But as the local Halfords didn't take any measurements (that's not a surprise) and at the time I didn't know any better, I'll just have to live with it for now.I hope you get sorted as its all speculation till someone in the know can see or even see if some of your LBS do a basic fit service .
and being female,
Before shortening the stem have you considered raising it, or flipping it over (if not already done) both of which would shorten reach. What you have said about feeling the need to move your saddle back....counterintuitive but have you tried moving it up and forwards. As you said in your op, saddle position also needs to be lined up with knees and pedals, so you need to find somewhere between these two limits that works for you. Moving the sadlle up will increase reach, which is why you should move the saddle forwards. I can't find the article I read but the advice suggested that 10mm increase in post height would add around 3mm of reach. With Stems it's the other way round 10mm increase in height decreases reach by 3mm. I had a similar conversation when I had a bike fit at the local uni. Take the numbers with a dash of salt but the principle is soundJust an update. I've been out a few times since moving the saddle back and fine tuned the height adjustment. Oh and changed the saddle for a Charge spoon which is much better. The reach is still a little long, so I'll probably try a shorter stem at some point in the not to distant future. I've got some Specialized BG gel gloves which at first were uncomfortable on the hoods, but I seem to have got used to them.
I'm going to sell some stuff and save some pennies towards a better bike later in the summer. Looking at the Cannondale synapse 5. I'll get a bike fit then.
Thanks Andy. Yeah I've though about that, but I'd be more upright than I want to be. The bike is almost certainly too big for me. I did originally have the saddle forward, but the position was all wrong, with too much weight forward. Now with the saddle back, I can use the legs properly, but am over reaching forwards when on the horns. the drops aren't too bad, but I find myself riding mostly at fingertip which isn't good. Suffering from really sore forearms/elbows which feels almost like tennis elbow. And hand discomfort between forefinger and thumb, even with the GEL gloves.Before shortening the stem have you considered raising it, or flipping it over (if not already done) both of which would shorten reach. What you have said about feeling the need to move your saddle back....counterintuitive but have you tried moving it up and forwards. As you said in your op, saddle position also needs to be lined up with knees and pedals, so you need to find somewhere between these two limits that works for you. Moving the sadlle up will increase reach, which is why you should move the saddle forwards. I can't find the article I read but the advice suggested that 10mm increase in post height would add around 3mm of reach. With Stems it's the other way round 10mm increase in height decreases reach by 3mm. I had a similar conversation when I had a bike fit at the local uni. Take the numbers with a dash of salt but the principle is sound