Bike fit not going well

[Dogtrousers]

Another vote for putting your heel on the pedal at its lowest point and straightening your knee to get the right saddle height. Tis an oldie but has always works for me. In fact it works for me each time I unfold my Brompton.

@mjr your link goes to the home page of wheel easy, but I couldn't find the fit/setup guide. Maybe just me being thick.

 

[mjr]

@mjr your link goes to the home page of wheel easy, but I couldn't find the fit/setup guide. Maybe just me being thick.

It's in the menus. I never get the exact link right quickly but it's https://wheel-easy.org.uk/bike-set-up/

 

[derrick]

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1VYhyppWTDc
Bike fits are a good money spinner, well tha'ts what the bike fitters tell me.

 

[cyberknight]

http://wheel-easy.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/bike-set-up-2017a.pdf
https://jimlangley.net/crank/bikefit.html

 

[Deleted member 26715]

Are you able to sit on the bike & get a family member to take a picture of you sat on it, maybe 4 images with your foot at 3, 6, 9 & 12, you can cut off your head if you're shy but include from your shoulder down with your hands on the flat part of the bar not on the drops.

 

[I like Skol]

Don't get too hung up on bikefit! Never had one or done one or even glanced at a fit guide but have still managed to achieve a position on dropbar, hybrid and mountain bike that has allowed all day, 100+ mile rides to be completed in comfort.
Key points are to make sure the bike is the right size, saddle height is close and you get some basic fitness and time on the bike. After this, just start making minor tweaks as you go along to optimise comfort (comfort being the main consideration rather than performance at this early stage).

 

[simongt]

bike fits are generally a complete waste of time and money.

Agree with this. I have four bikes of very different types, thus the 'setup' will be different for each bike. As long as the saddle height is right; extended leg @ 18.00h. position method, then the rest I simply tweak by small increments until it feels right for me.

 

[Dogtrousers]

Don't get too hung up on bikefit!

Indeed. It is possible to over-think these things. It's not really rocket science. Just take things easy, increase gradually, address problems one at a time.

I asked for a bike fit as a present a few years ago, because the guy came highly recommended from a number of people and I couldn't think of anything else I really needed at the time. He made some adjustments, and I think the wider bars that he recommended were a definite improvement (I'm a wide person) but beyond that really I don't think he made a fat lot of difference.

 

[Gekko21]

Really helpful thread thanks. Just set my bike up on a turbo trainer and am pounding out more miles than my usual commute pootle. The front of my knees were getting sore so I've just followed the guides people have posted above. It's resulted in quite a hike up of my saddle as well as shifting it back slightly. Looking forward to seeing how it affects my next ride.

 

[Fat-thor]

Wow thanks so much for all the help and advise. I chose a 58 frame because I am just over 6ft and I'm 19 stone. 56 felt too small. I have attached some photos here. Fist is heal to pedal and the rest are clipped in. Thanks again guys.

 

[vickster]

Have you set your cleats up properly?

 

[I like Skol]

I'm no expert but from looking at your pictures you look pretty close to a good position there and certainly look right at home on that size of bike
Couple of things you could try;

• From the pictures taken when you are clipped in I would say there is scope for raising the saddle slightly. Not much, put some tape on to mark the current position then try +5mm and if still ok maybe another +5mm
• Saddle could possibly go back a small amount.
• You could flip the stem for your bars. This would raise the bars and move them slightly closer, meaning you shouldn't have to ride with such straight arms at full stretch. You seem to be hunching your shoulders to allow you to reach the bars without leaning forward too much.
• Check cleat alignment. Poor cleat position is notorious for causing knee issues and there are a number of ways found on the internet to set this. I can't really comment as my method is to just make the shoes in line with the wheel line, as close to the cranks as I can without rubbing and identical set-up on L & R and this works for me.

EDIT: Just to add, if you make any changes as described above, only try one thing at a time and then ride it for a while to see if it helps or not. If you make multiple changes you won't know which change has helped.

 

[icowden]

An odd question here, but are you naturally a heel walker, or a toe walker? The reason for asking is that I find it impossible to be comfortable cycling with heel at 6 0'clock as many have described. I tend to have my toes at a 45 degree angle at 6'o clock. On my bike fit I was told that this was not problematic as I push through the whole of the cycle of the wheels going round. If you tend to your toes therefore it may be worth trying a higher saddle height.

I'm a toe walker a la Michael MacIntyre's great little routine:-

View: https://youtu.be/YmwBw10RmLs

 

[Shadow121]

I would try and put the seat back 5mm, that will take some weight
off your knee.
Your not complaining about sore hands or arms so there doesn’t seem to be
too much weight on them, moving seat back may add some, but would
help with sore knees.
15 minute rides in gears that don’t put you out of breath too much
would help easy you in, if your on big hills it will be difficult to
avoid being out of breath till your used to it.
Mark the current position of the seat so you can gauge your next move.

 

[cyberknight]

I would say the saddle still to far forward, moving it back will unweight the arms
this is your piccie black line is your line from knee through pedal, other one is where it should be as a starting point,
Also looking at your pic are the hoods a bit low ? itshard to tell but i think they could do with rotating up a bit loosening the bolt that hold the bar to the stem and rotating it upwards a bit which combined with moving the saddle back would give a better position.