BB30 Removal Help

[mark st1]

Hey im replacing my BB30 chainset have stripped it down to these bearings does anyone know if these which i assume are press fit bearings ? can be removed WITHOUT a special tool ? I dont want to go yanking them about if im going to break something.

Many Thanks.




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[smokeysmoo]

THIS is the 'correct' tool Mark, but as you've seen the light and you're converting to HTII there's no point investing in one IMO, (although they are dirt cheap TBH).

I had that same tool when I converted mine, and if I still had it you could have had it gladly, but I sold it

Not wanting to be presumptious, but has V for venge not got one?

If not you can drift the old bearing out with a screwdrier* and a a hammer*

*other tools of persuasion may be preferred but you get my drift**

**no pun intended.

 

[smokeysmoo]

Many Thanks.

PS: which way are going for the HTII? Push fit cups or press fit sleeve?

 

[mark st1]

PS: which way are going for the HTII? Push fit cups or press fit sleeve?

Thanks for the info matey much appreciated i did think of the tap tap screwdriver hammer malaki but didnt want to trash something with my newbie ness lol. Ive just gone for the standard Ultegra press fit sleeve for now have the BB30 adapter sleeve thingy so fingers crossed all goes well

 

[02GF74]

yes, the tool above is for the job - you cna get it in UK too.

it should be possible to tap the bearing with a drift or screwdriver but you need to give the bearing a tap at 4 different points so it comes square.

note that there is a circlip in the shell (the bearing sits against this) so do not tap agaisnnt this as you will geet nowhere.

why do you want to remove them? if they are rough, they can be rejuvenated by prising off the seals, cleaning the crud out with paraffin, pacj full of grease and finally replacing the seal - all of this can be done in situ. in fact, it is good practice to pack new bearings with grease.

 

[smokeysmoo]

Note, there is a circlip in the shell (the bearing sits against this) so do not tap against this as you will get nowhere.

Good point, I forgot about the circlip

Why do you want to remove them?

The OP is converting his BB to Hollowtech II, so the BB30 bearings, (and circlip) need to come out so he can fit a BB30 adapter to enable him to screw in the HTII cups

 

[mark st1]

Good point, I forgot about the circlip

The OP is converting his BB to Hollowtech II, so the BB30 bearings, (and circlip) need to come out so he can fit a BB30 adapter to enable him to screw in the HTII cups

Stalker

 

[mark st1]

yes, the tool above is for the job - you cna get it in UK too.

it should be possible to tap the bearing with a drift or screwdriver but you need to give the bearing a tap at 4 different points so it comes square.

note that there is a circlip in the shell (the bearing sits against this) so do not tap agaisnnt this as you will geet nowhere.

why do you want to remove them? if they are rough, they can be rejuvenated by prising off the seals, cleaning the crud out with paraffin, pacj full of grease and finally replacing the seal - all of this can be done in situ. in fact, it is good practice to pack new bearings with grease.

Thanks for your help gents much appreciated

 

[Mr Haematocrit]

Not wanting to be presumptious, but has V for venge not got one?

Got a screwdriver and a hammer
Anyway I consider him to be a devient for going away from BB30 Why would I help him, only bugger I have more issue with is the fella who sold him the non BB30 parts, he makes me wanna ......... j/k lol

 

[steve52]

i did mine with a large screw drive and gental taps no prob, got new bearings fron an industrial bearing shop for a fiver each, then found the horrible bb noise was infact the peadal bearings

 

[Pedrosanchezo]

My CX bike is due a BB service. Sounds a bit like there is sand in the bearings. A sure fire sign of deadness.
Will order some BB30 bearings and get to it soon, honest.

A build i am doing has BB30 frame and fitting Shimano Dura ace chainset so need an adaptor. I have heard too many complaints RE squeeky problems about the FSA press fit adaptor. There are a few other cup solutions though that look good.

I am going with this one though. Think it will do the trick and be completely reversible.

 

[smokeysmoo]

I am going with this one though. Think it will do the trick and be completely reversible.

The only advantage of the cup adapters IMO is the fact that you can easily remove them as you say.

They do say once fitted in a carbon frame THIS adapter is permanent and no attempt should be made to remove it, (another reason I don't have a carbon frame), although why anyone would want to revert back to BB30 is beyond me anyway.

I actually use the FSA one myself and since fitting it I've never looked back. As it's a solid fix with the HTII cups threaded into it there is much less chance of squeaks and creaks than with the press fit cups, this stands to reason.

My sleeve adapter has been in for well over 12 months now, and I've never had a single noise from the BB since I fitted it

[EDIT]. You're fitting the later 24mm Shimano cranks aren't you? I went with the sleeve adapter as I was fitting the more common Shimano HTII cranks, as is mark st1.
Having had a proper look at the KCNC cups you plan to use I can see they actually thread into each other, so they should be spot on.
I was actually thinking of THESE whilst I was rambling away above

 

[Pedrosanchezo]

The only advantage of the cup adapters IMO is the fact that you can easily remove them as you say.

They do say once fitted in a carbon frame THIS adapter is permanent and no attempt should be made to remove it, (another reason I don't have a carbon frame), although why anyone would want to revert back to BB30 is beyond me anyway.

I actually use the FSA one myself and since fitting it I've never looked back. As it's a solid fix with the HTII cups threaded into it there is much less chance of squeaks and creaks than with the press fit cups, this stands to reason.

My sleeve adapter has been in for well over 12 months now, and I've never had a single noise from the BB since I fitted it

[EDIT]. You're fitting the later 24mm Shimano cranks aren't you? I went with the sleeve adapter as I was fitting the more common Shimano HTII cranks, as is mark st1.
Having had a proper look at the KCNC cups you plan to use I can see they actually thread into each other, so they should be spot on.
I was actually thinking of THESE whilst I was rambling away above

Fitting Dura ace Hollow tech 2. There have been reports of Dura ace crank being a real bugger to fit into these, as one reviewer actually mentions in that link. The wheels manufacturing ones seem to be well reviewed also but i don't like the way they look personally and would prefer a full sleeve.
I too have heard that you should not remove the FSA press fit adaptors. Not least because they usually get installed with some locktite. Apparently the manufacturer will void any warranty where these are fitted then removed.

 

[Rob3rt]

Fitting Dura ace Hollow tech 2. There have been reports of Dura ace crank being a real bugger to fit into these, as one reviewer actually mentions in that link. The wheels manufacturing ones seem to be well reviewed also but i don't like the way they look personally and would prefer a full sleeve.
I too have heard that you should not remove the FSA press fit adaptors. Not least because they usually get installed with some locktite. Apparently the manufacturer will void any warranty where these are fitted then removed.

My TT bike manual states the FSA adapter is a permanent modification on carbon frames, but can be pressed back out on alu frames. I wouldn't dream of installing one on my TT bike and just had one pressed back out of my CAAD about a month ago (by the bike shop that sold me the bike 3 years ago). My main motivations for reverting to BB30 on the CAAD were that my TT bike is BB30, I have no desire to permanently mod it to be otherwise, so I wanted my CAAD to be running the same BB type so I can swap my PM back and forth between bikes with no hassle.

 

[Pedrosanchezo]

My TT bike manual states the FSA adapter is a permanent modification on carbon frames, but can be pressed back out on alu frames. I wouldn't dream of installing one on my TT bike and just had one pressed back out of my CAAD about a month ago (by the bike shop that sold me the bike 3 years ago). My main motivations for reverting to BB30 on the CAAD were that my TT bike is BB30, I have no desire to permanently mod it to be otherwise, so I wanted my CAAD to be running the same BB type so I can swap my PM back and forth between bikes with no hassle.

Yeh i agree, wouldn't try remove it. Have defo heard of people removing them from carbon frames. Crazy though if you ask me. Could all go horribly wrong.

I will report back when i fit the KCNC adaptor. For ease of use it can't be beaten. Performance is going to be the decider.