Back issues since tweaking position...advice please?

[Sloth]

The handlebars look to 31.8mm because they're tapered. Easily measured just next to stem

They are in fact 25.4mm at the stem and around 600-620mm (ish) in length (inc the Ergon grip ends)
They do taper away from the stem but not by much.

 

[Sloth]

Sorry my first reply didn’t register sorry for duplication!

 

[Kajjal]

For back pain after readjusting a bikes set up a couple of possible causes. If the saddle is too high it causes tension in the body as you overstretch to the pedals. In my case slightly too high gave me mild chest pains which worried me until I tried another bike with no problems at all so thankfully it was the bike. A fair bit too high strains my hips but this is very obvious.

The other is not having the saddle level. If it is leaning towards the back it puts more pressure on the lower back which increases the further out it is. People’s bodies vary in shape, flexibility and build so best to take time to learn what is best for your own body.

 

[Sloth]

Thanks.
As far as I can tell the saddle height is ok, in fact if anything it could go slightly higher as there’s still a slight bend in the knee when I rest on the lowest pedal with my heel.

The saddle (Selle SMP) is also slightly dipping down at the front as per instructions. Basically there is a fingers thickness between the top surface of the front of the saddle and the underside of a level spirit level.

I am looking at a set of riser bars to replace my flats but am unsure what riser height to go for.
They seem to come in various rises from 15mm to 50mm.
I’m thinking around 30mm is a good compromise?

 

[sasquath]

Thanks.
As far as I can tell the saddle height is ok, in fact if anything it could go slightly higher as there’s still a slight bend in the knee when I rest on the lowest pedal with my heel.

The saddle (Selle SMP) is also slightly dipping down at the front as per instructions. Basically there is a fingers thickness between the top surface of the front of the saddle and the underside of a level spirit level.

I am looking at a set of riser bars to replace my flats but am unsure what riser height to go for.
They seem to come in various rises from 15mm to 50mm.
I’m thinking around 30mm is a good compromise?

You could try:
A:
Mark current saddle height
lower saddle to the point where back pain goes away rise bars either by stem shape, bar shape of both same amount saddle was lowered.

B:
Buy adjustable stem and tweak it as needed.
Replace stem with solid one - had 2 adjustables snap on me so I do not recommend them for long term use.

 

[Sloth]

The handlebars look to 31.8mm because they're tapered. Easily measured just next to stem

You could try:
A:
Mark current saddle height
lower saddle to the point where back pain goes away rise bars either by stem shape, bar shape of both same amount saddle was lowered.

B:
Buy adjustable stem and tweak it as needed.
Replace stem with solid one - had 2 adjustables snap on me so I do not recommend them for long term use.

Thanks, but if I lower the saddle I will make the leg reach on pedal strokes too shallow again and bring back the quad fatigue.
Lowering the saddle isn’t an option so it’s a case of raising the bars somehow.
I think I’m going to buy some riser bars, probably around 30-40mm rise and see if that helps. For what they cost it’s a cheap experiment.

 

[sasquath]

Thanks, but if I lower the saddle I will make the leg reach on pedal strokes too shallow again and bring back the quad fatigue.
Lowering the saddle isn’t an option so it’s a case of raising the bars somehow.
I think I’m going to buy some riser bars, probably around 30-40mm rise and see if that helps. For what they cost it’s a cheap experiment.

I suggested lowering saddle as means of measuring how much to rise the bars.
Lower 20mm , if back is ok rise it back and buy 20 mm riser bars or 20mm higher stem - simples

 

[Kajjal]

What drop from saddle to bars do you currently have ?

A stretched out superman position suits very few riders, most have little drop from saddle to bars ( an inch or less) or even about level. It’s whatever suits your body as we all differ.

A quick way to get rough the right bar position is to sit on the bike and see where your hands naturally drop to as you lean forwards. A older road bike had too much drop and too much reach to the bars. My current bike has less drop and reach so I can naturally ride in any position in the bars including the drops.This is similar for a mountain bike.

 

[Sloth]

I suggested lowering saddle as means of measuring how much to rise the bars.
Lower 20mm , if back is ok rise it back and buy 20 mm riser bars or 20mm higher stem - simples

I suggested lowering saddle as means of measuring how much to rise the bars.
Lower 20mm , if back is ok rise it back and buy 20 mm riser bars or 20mm higher stem - simples

Ah ok, sorry my misunderstanding. Makes sense👍

 

[fossyant]

OP how much change did you make that's caused the issue - I said earlier, a little at a time, any major changes will introduce pain. I assume you can't adjust back to where it was. You need to measure what you do.

 

[fair weather cyclist]

Are you possibly expecting too much too soon?

This.

OP, just give it a couple of weeks. Human bodies are very adaptable machines, so if you tweak your bike position to save your quads and you get a bit of pain in the lower back, you just need to give it a couple of weeks. The new position is causing you pain because your body is not yet used to it and probably your lower back is not yet strong enough to sustain that position. Keep riding, your lower back will get stronger and the pain will disappear.

You have taken the suggestion of moving the saddle forward and this has now caused you now an issue with your shoulders and probably have made your position on the bike worse than it was before. I haven't read the thread but I bet there's someone who will start suggesting to swap stems.

All these suggestions made by people who don't know you and mainly don't know what they're talking about are going to progressively make your position on the bike worse.

So, stop taking advice from strangers, just make one adjustment at a time and give it 2 weeks before you try another one.

 

[Sloth]

We’ll, after a couple of weeks I have persevered a little. I did slightly raise the seat post a tad more as there was still some bend in the knee when resting my heel on the lowest pedal. Nothing to do with the back pain, just thought id mention it.
Actually, my back pain has gone but I do still get shoulder/trap burn after around 8-10 miles or so which cramps for a few seconds or so when I get off the bike at the end of the ride.
I’ll give it a bit longer but so far I’m still thinking of higher rise bars or a new adjustable stem.

 

[sasquath]

We’ll, after a couple of weeks I have persevered a little. I did slightly raise the seat post a tad more as there was still some bend in the knee when resting my heel on the lowest pedal. Nothing to do with the back pain, just thought id mention it.
Actually, my back pain has gone but I do still get shoulder/trap burn after around 8-10 miles or so which cramps for a few seconds or so when I get off the bike at the end of the ride.
I’ll give it a bit longer but so far I’m still thinking of higher rise bars or a new adjustable stem.

On flat bars you can aslo try bar end horns to switch hand position, sometimes helps with wrist and shoulder fatigue and pains.

Word of warning:
Depending on your ride style adjustable stems can be dangerous.
I'm known to be heavy honkerer - stand up and throw bike around on hills and take offs and I did break 2 adjustable stems, system ex mid range stem was one of them other one was cheap chinesium from eBay.

So use them with caution, and try to spin rather than honker when fitted one. And don't skimp, eBay one was around £10 and broke after a week, system fx lasted about 2 years. They broke on traffic light take offs and it was pure luck I fell on the non traffic side of the road.

 

[Sloth]

Thanks.
I have no idea what ‘honkering’ is although I doubt I’ll be doing any of if as I only ride roads and country lanes. No off road or such stuff and certainly no throwing the bike around….at all.

 

[sasquath]

Thanks.
I have no idea what ‘honkering’ is although I doubt I’ll be doing any of if as I only ride roads and country lanes. No off road or such stuff and certainly no throwing the bike around….at all.

Honkering(honking) example:
View: https://youtu.be/E_HtVSQlry8

With flat wide bars forces exerted at stem are huge.