Peter88
Veteran
- Location
- Failsworth
Got my P7 delivered this morning (2 weeks from DX in HK) Battery is on charge now, looking forward to my ride to work in the morning now 
Anyone Got a "SSC P7-C 3-Mode 900-Lumen" From Ebay ?
- Thread starter gb155
- Start date
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Got my P7 delivered this morning (2 weeks from DX in HK) Battery is on charge now, looking forward to my ride to work in the morning now
I hope you have read the thread about problems with the batteries, mainly for the information on how to look after your battery.
Peter88
Veteran
- Location
- Failsworth
I have BSRU the battery is now in a ziplock bag with some gaffer taor sealing the hole and positioned on the stem with the wire facing downhill.
fossyant
Ride It Like You Stole It!
- Location
- South Manchester
My original MS batteries are in the greenhouse in a tin.
I've got a 6 x AA holder and configured a new pack at 7.2v, but 2500mah (not 4400 with li-ion) with 6 AA's....... works well, although one slight problem is the middle battery can pop off the connectors with road vibration, so some foam 'will' sort that out.
Rather not have those Li-ions in my panniers in the garage unattended.......
I've got a 6 x AA holder and configured a new pack at 7.2v, but 2500mah (not 4400 with li-ion) with 6 AA's....... works well, although one slight problem is the middle battery can pop off the connectors with road vibration, so some foam 'will' sort that out.
Rather not have those Li-ions in my panniers in the garage unattended.......
DrSquirrel
Guest
fossyant
Ride It Like You Stole It!
- Location
- South Manchester
Unlikely.........
But......I have too much kit in my garage mate to even risk it.......... I'll keep them.
it's clear these days that very bright lights can be had cheaply, people now need to wiegh up the quality and reliability and durability of the manufacture, batteries, mounts etc spesh if it's come for China
my house is full up with looky likey stuff but none that is going to be subject to daily knocks and bangs and road vibration and soaking wetting, that I rely on
my house is full up with looky likey stuff but none that is going to be subject to daily knocks and bangs and road vibration and soaking wetting, that I rely on
DrSquirrel
Guest
It all comes from China, you're just relying on good QC.
And good QC doesn't always come from companies trying to make tighter margins.
The "stuff from China" really does suit people who knows how to tinker more, DIY and all that etc.
I tend to refer to how hard it can be to sort things out on warranty in this country, if they will help out or not, if you have to pay to return or not, is the support number 10p+ a minute etc. Some are very good... some are poor... you're not always paying for better quality, but more hoops that your device jumps through (manufacturer, distributors, retailer etc and all the staff that work in between, and everything else that goes with it adds up).
Even the best item can fail - so there is no point in relying on something that is "of better quality" as you can still be left literally in the dark... so backups (as im sure) most of us run mitigate most of this. Then balance this against having a generally better product to start with...
I won't even start on brand names.
What about leaving your AA unattended? They might explode too
ie. you're worrying about "nothing". Really the risk is pretty much non existent with an idle battery... there should be no reason to use that as a decision not to use them. Just detatch the battery from your whole bike and leave it in the middle of the floor... sorted. Wasting your time, but sorted none the less.
And good QC doesn't always come from companies trying to make tighter margins.
The "stuff from China" really does suit people who knows how to tinker more, DIY and all that etc.
I tend to refer to how hard it can be to sort things out on warranty in this country, if they will help out or not, if you have to pay to return or not, is the support number 10p+ a minute etc. Some are very good... some are poor... you're not always paying for better quality, but more hoops that your device jumps through (manufacturer, distributors, retailer etc and all the staff that work in between, and everything else that goes with it adds up).
Even the best item can fail - so there is no point in relying on something that is "of better quality" as you can still be left literally in the dark... so backups (as im sure) most of us run mitigate most of this. Then balance this against having a generally better product to start with...
I won't even start on brand names.
What about leaving your AA unattended? They might explode too
ie. you're worrying about "nothing". Really the risk is pretty much non existent with an idle battery... there should be no reason to use that as a decision not to use them. Just detatch the battery from your whole bike and leave it in the middle of the floor... sorted. Wasting your time, but sorted none the less.
The rumours I have read indicate they skimped on the protective circuit. They state the batteries should never be discharged below 2.5v as the next charge will cause the damage leading to possible fire risk. The safety cicuit they use only cuts out at 2v hence the recall, apparently. Reportedly this means they do not comply with UL or CE certification.
DrSquirrel
Guest
Just to clarify - above I am not denying this, as this is only a risk when you are charging not when the battery is idle.
Might find that the "original" batch were fine, that is typical "chinese" seller tactic to make them properly to start with and then cheap out on quality later on once everyone hears the review of how the quality "is pretty okay".
If 4x18650 holders were more common that would be the best for these lights - choose your own cells, charge/balance them properly etc.
That is true in general but all companies want to increase their profit margins and increase shareholder value, so sometimes they go to far.
twowheelsgood
Senior Member
- Location
- Zurich Switzerland
Just out of interest, the light head itself can be bought quite cheaply. Anyone tried this with a hub dynamo? You shouldn't really need any cicuitry as these won't deliver more than 3W anyway.
@Tynan. I'd say the quality was BETTER than the last cateye stuff I bought. Plus there is a hell of a lot less to go wrong than other high-power solutions like HID.
@Tynan. I'd say the quality was BETTER than the last cateye stuff I bought. Plus there is a hell of a lot less to go wrong than other high-power solutions like HID.
DrSquirrel
Guest
Of course I agree.
Although im sure you've heard before "they don't make them how they used to".
Depends on the voltage/amperage, the light has its own regulator in it and off hand im not sure, but BSRU already runs these on a 12V cell (which fully charged is going to be more like 13 odd) so it should cope with it, and not have a flickering light.
Of course it would stop when you stop...
Oh and SSC P7 are 10W. You'd be better off with a different LED, or even their new smaller light - granted the value for money on this sucks http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.44965 you might as well get a £10 Q5 based torch and cut the back off.
I would say HID are pretty reliable, even more so than high end LEDs.
twowheelsgood
Senior Member
- Location
- Zurich Switzerland
So the regulation is in the head unit itself? Actually all you should need to do is bypass this and wire it directly, the properties of the diode will effectively self-regulate or would you need at least to rectify the output?
Also would it really be a bad choice as efficiency is actually higher for a less highly driven diode. It's not like halogen whereby lower voltages mean the gas doesn't get hot enough to emit light and the putput drops almost instantly, the electricity directly excites photon through the diode junction and this process is inhibited by heat and therefore efficiency (i.e. emission) drops with junction temperature, the 10W rating is a maximum to avoid damage, not an operating power necessarily (actually even then with cooling you can easily go higher). I guess here the beam pattern is the problem rather than the P7, you'd need to concentrate it more to optimise your 3W.
I never saw the point of HIDs in cycling (had one briefly and it broke), there was only one 10W MR16 model available and you could match that in lumens/watt with overvolted halogen without the high voltage electronics, using the special high-efficiency bulbs from philips (masterline ES at 14.4 or even 15.6V) - that's been my set-up for the last 4 years and it's still going strong albeit with reduced battery life. Now the 35W hid is another story.
Also would it really be a bad choice as efficiency is actually higher for a less highly driven diode. It's not like halogen whereby lower voltages mean the gas doesn't get hot enough to emit light and the putput drops almost instantly, the electricity directly excites photon through the diode junction and this process is inhibited by heat and therefore efficiency (i.e. emission) drops with junction temperature, the 10W rating is a maximum to avoid damage, not an operating power necessarily (actually even then with cooling you can easily go higher). I guess here the beam pattern is the problem rather than the P7, you'd need to concentrate it more to optimise your 3W.
I never saw the point of HIDs in cycling (had one briefly and it broke), there was only one 10W MR16 model available and you could match that in lumens/watt with overvolted halogen without the high voltage electronics, using the special high-efficiency bulbs from philips (masterline ES at 14.4 or even 15.6V) - that's been my set-up for the last 4 years and it's still going strong albeit with reduced battery life. Now the 35W hid is another story.
