Another question - cables too short for new stem!

[battered]

Are they actually any better than the others that you linked to earlier or is it just that they charge more because of marketing?

Stainless inners will last longer because they don't corrode. That said, I have normal steel inners that I grease every year and they are 15years old and perfect. Without greasing, a no n stainless steel inner brake or gear cable will be useless within 5 years.

 

[thistler]

Stainless inners will last longer because they don't corrode. That said, I have normal steel inners that I grease every year and they are 15years old and perfect. Without greasing, a no n stainless steel inner brake or gear cable will be useless within 5 years.

Thank you, battered! The cheapish set from Wiggle says they are stainless steel, so I have ordered them.

Thanks everyone for all your help, it is much appreciated!

 

[battered]

Thank you, battered! The cheapish set from Wiggle says they are stainless steel, so I have ordered them.

Thanks everyone for all your help, it is much appreciated!

Get as much grease inside the inner as you can, the outers will still rust if you don't, and the cables will start sticking. Then you'll be on here saying "my derailleur is faulty" . It's not, they never are. Cable gummed up, now you're talking.

 

[classic33]

Does anyone else solder the cable where they intend cutting it, before cutting?

 

[Ajax Bay]

Do not force grease into the outers nor coat the cables therewith. They (stainless steel cables (not the sort @battered has had on his bike for 15 years) and plastic-lined outers) are jointly designed to operate best with no additional lubrication.
AASSIA
Cable Lubrication
In the old days, before the development of plastic-lined housing, it was necessary to coat the inner cable with light grease or heavy oil.
Modern plastic-lined cables have made the use of grease inappropriate, because the viscosity of the grease makes for sluggish cable movement. This is a more critical concern with modern brake and gear systems that use weaker return springs, and with indexed shifting in general. Many manufacturers now recommend against using any lubrication on cables. It certainly should be avoided in the case of sealed systems such as Gore-Tex ®.

 

[battered]

Does anyone else solder the cable where they intend cutting it, before cutting?

No. Just use a ferrule.

 

[Ajax Bay]

Does anyone else solder the cable where they intend cutting it, before cutting?

I don't but I can see it'd be good practice. A cable end is going to go on it though. I wondered whether @battered use of 'ferrule' was a euphemism for something.

 

[battered]

I don't but I can see it'd be good practice. A cable end is going to go on it though. I wondered whether @battered use of 'ferrule' was a euphemism for something.

"Ferrule" - a metal cap or ring fitted to a stick or rod and used to protect it from wear. From Old French "virelle", C16th.

 

[Blue Hills]

Does anyone else solder the cable where they intend cutting it, before cutting?

no - how does that work?
you solder just in front of (ie towards the break lever) where you intend to cut?
Or solder then cut into the solder?

In truth I have little trouble with brake cables - last ages - it's gear cables where I tend to get issues with fraying - to do with the cable path at the end, along with other issues I think.

 

[classic33]

no - how does that work?
you solder just in front of (ie towards the break lever) where you intend to cut?
Or solder then cut into the solder?

In truth I have little trouble with brake cables - last ages - it's gear cables where I tend to get issues with fraying - to do with the cable path at the end, along with other issues I think.

Solder, then cut the cable where you've soldered.
No loose ends to bother about, when you do make the cut.

 

[Gillstay]

Yes I find the Shimano stainless ones very good as well. For cutting them I have the Felco CP cutters which I was bought as a Xmas present when they first came out and they are fantastic for a range of jobs.