Another broken spoke...

[confusedcyclist]

When do I cut my losses with a wheel that keeps breaking spokes?

I had a broken spoke a few weeks ago - see here - http://www.cyclechat.net/threads/am-i-walking-home-broken-spoke.167653/

Quick update on that, my LBS said the wheel was out of true and was bobbing up and down, likely due to a side impact. I had hit a kerb a few weeks prior avoiding a car pulling in on me... the mechanic managed to get it straightened out. They replaced the spoke and trued the wheel and sorted out the ding for £20. Today I lost another spoke on the way in to work.

I have the tools I need to replace the spoke myself this time as I hate not being able to fix these myself. Its a newish P-Elite C Wheelset that came stock on my Defy 1, it's only done 600 miles, but given the previous damage and the fact that I lost another spoke today should I consider buying a new wheel, or opt for the repair again?

What a hassle, was late in to work today because of it!

 

[helston90]

I would buy a new wheel to keep you on the road and then learn to build the wheel yourself using the current hub and some replacement spokes- it's the rim that's gone and will probably keep going.

 

[Drago]

I suffered a similar problem recently on the rear wheel of my commuter. I'm a Fat bastid so the wheels have a hard time anyway, but binning the rack and dusting off the rucksack cured the problem.

 

[confusedcyclist]

I would buy a new wheel to keep you on the road and then learn to build the wheel yourself using the current hub and some replacement spokes- it's the rim that's gone and will probably keep going.

Cheers, I'll do just that as I don't fancy forking out another £20 quid and being in the same position next month. Picked up a pair of these for £63, guess it will be good to have some spares. Thanks @SatNavSaysStraightOn for the tip in the previous thread!

I suffered a similar problem recently on the rear wheel of my commuter. I'm a Fat bastid so the wheels have a hard time anyway, but binning the rack and dusting off the rucksack cured the problem.

I'm a bit on the larger side being 183cm, and I do carry a backpack, but I would hope that wheels would be strong enough to carry 82kg plus maybe 5kg max in backpack. I could lose another kilo maybe, but I don't think excess weight is the issue, probably just Giant's crap factory build.

 

[Soltydog]

New wheels is the best bet. I had a tricross a few years back & had 3 spokes go (all at different times) & kind of lost confidence in the bike, or certainly the wheel & I don't fancy being miles from home with a broken spoke. I haven't been under 100kg for many years now , so my weight is probably an issue, but having handbuilt wheels on 2 of my bikes I've not had any problems with them (touch wood)

 

[helston90]

I'm a bit on the larger side being 183cm, and I do carry a backpack, but I would hope that wheels would be strong enough to carry 82kg plus maybe 5kg max in backpack..

Have a gander at my thread on those wheels if it helps put your mind at ease. (although I opted for the standard spoke and not the flat ones as advised within the thread due to the availability of the standard ones should I need to replace them)

 

[Yellow Saddle]

I suffered a similar problem recently on the rear wheel of my commuter. I'm a Fat bastid so the wheels have a hard time anyway, but binning the rack and dusting off the rucksack cured the problem.

I don't understand why putting your luggage in a rucksack rather than on the bike would make a difference?

 

[Drago]

Moves the weight forward, spreads the load more evenly between the 2 wheels. It also means the weight of the luggage is 'sprung' by my legs, and not rigidly.affixed above the rear wheel with no means of shock absorption.

 

[Yellow Saddle]

When do I cut my losses with a wheel that keeps breaking spokes?

I had a broken spoke a few weeks ago - see here - http://www.cyclechat.net/threads/am-i-walking-home-broken-spoke.167653/

Quick update on that, my LBS said the wheel was out of true and was bobbing up and down, likely due to a side impact. I had hit a kerb a few weeks prior avoiding a car pulling in on me... the mechanic managed to get it straightened out. They replaced the spoke and trued the wheel and sorted out the ding for £20. Today I lost another spoke on the way in to work.

I have the tools I need to replace the spoke myself this time as I hate not being able to fix these myself. Its a newish P-Elite C Wheelset that came stock on my Defy 1, it's only done 600 miles, but given the previous damage and the fact that I lost another spoke today should I consider buying a new wheel, or opt for the repair again?

What a hassle, was late in to work today because of it!

Spokes break due to metal fatigue. With each revolution of the wheel, the spoke loads and unloads, the unload cycling being when a spoke is right at the bottom of the wheel. These cyclical changes in tension causes the J-bend at the hub end to open and close at a rate of once per revolution. A 20km trip would do that approximately 10 000 times, just to give you an indication. Like bending a wire coat hanger until it breaks, the spokes break too, albeit that it takes longer to break due to the small amplitude of the bend.

Spokes all fatigue at the same rate, thus if one or two spokes break, the others are also fatigue and will break sooner or later as well.

A good wheelbuilder can build a wheel and stress relieve the spokes so that metal fatigue takes a very, very long time to set in, effectively until after the wheel's useful life is over.

Thus, find a wheelbuilder that understands how stress relieving works. Attempting to do this procedure on your existing wheel is futile, it has to be done when the spokes are new or not already fatigued. Factory wheels are often not stress relieved, but that doesn't mean every wheelbuilder understands the process either.

Start with new spokes and a builder that understands the process.

 

[Yellow Saddle]

Moves the weight forward, spreads the load more evenly between the 2 wheels. It also means the weight of the luggage is 'sprung' by my legs, and not rigidly.affixed above the rear wheel with no means of shock absorption.

Thanks

 

[confusedcyclist]

Excellent explanation @Yellow Saddle, slightly disappointed that my wheels only lasted 600 miles though! I'd love to learn to build my own wheels, so at least this gives me a good excuse to do some geeking out in the garage!

 

[PpPete]

BTW the book I referenced in previous thread does give instructions on stress-relieving.

I keep reading all these threads about broken spokes on factory built wheels, and now I'm starting to get paranoid that it will to me on one of the rare occasions when I am riding something other than my own hand-builts.

 

[confusedcyclist]

Last night I was being paranoid about broken chains (proof), this morning I did suffer a mechanical failure, albeit not a chain. I think the fairies might have it in for me.

 

[User6179]

Is i

BTW the book I referenced in previous thread does give instructions on stress-relieving.

I keep reading all these threads about broken spokes on factory built wheels, and now I'm starting to get paranoid that it will to me on one of the rare occasions when I am riding something other than my own hand-builts.

If you go for factory built then straight pull spokes don't fatigue the same way , you just tend to crack the rim instead though eventually.

 

[Yellow Saddle]

Is i


If you go for factory built then straight pull spokes don't fatigue the same way , you just tend to crack the rim instead though eventually.

It doesn't solve the problem. The second weakest spot on a spoke is where the thread starts. Straight pulls break there instead, and equally quickly. Rims fatigue just like any other metal but it does give you ample warning that it is about to start. If your spokes are good, you can at least replace the rim without replacing all the spokes.
Straight pull spokes have other problems too, not least is availability. If you break one of those, you pay big for replacements since it is usually a wheel part with part number etc. that has to be ordered for that wheel.

The best bet remains a J-bend but it has to be stress-relieved.