PHL67
Veteran
- Location
- Frinton on Sea
Doesn't matter about the tubing. As soon as you mention Peugeot and it looks nice people just love them. I know I do. It does look really nice. Better than the old red colour.
1984 Peugeot (nothing special) Equipe - modernisation project.
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OP
OP
Colin_P
Guru
Thanks for that. As a yoof I lusted after something with a 501 frame and when a friend got a Record Sprint with all the gold stuff on it I was down in the doldrums a bit. Thing is my old Pug kept up and some. I had a very similar setup as I'm recreating now with the Pletscher rack and with it my old Pug would carry me and loads of fishing gear where my mates Sprint couldn't.
I'm a bit busy elsewhere at home at the moment with quite a large garden patio build going on which I'm trying to get done before the weather breaks. I did however want the frame sprayed on the bike also before things got too damp for spraying. I'll pick up doing the bike once the garden work is done.
For reference, me and my sons have dug out and almost filled a 6 yeard skip and yesterday knocked up two tons on concrete through the mixer barrowing into the garden and placing / levelling / floating it. Another three tons of ballast being delivered tomorrow. Once the concrete bases are I down I then need to lay the paving! The week off I took last week was hopelessly short, this garden project is taking far longer that I thought.
OP
OP
Colin_P
Guru
And finally I got the tyres wet.
Finished the bike this evening having completed the patio works.
Here she stands finished.
The blumel mudguards are very nice things to behold but are a real labour of love to set up correctly.
The new duel pivot deep drop A559 calipers work really well and with the old 70's / 80's suicide levers, really well. I'd say the braking even using the aux levers is up there with my modern roady which is fitted with cross top aux levers. Very little pressure required and the modulation and braking power is very good.
About the only thing I'm not entirely happy with is the angle of the Pletscher rack, it kicks up a bit and had to do so to clear the brake calipers.
The low / mid end Acera rear bolted straight onto the frame
As did the front. A new Shimano UN55 bottom bracket should last and my calcs regarding chain line and bottom bracket length were spot on. The gears shift beautifully although it is going to take some time to get used to the extended choice of ratios. Previous and this will ring true to anyone who has used downtube shifters is that you'll leave it in a gear rather than shift to another one. Easily done with a brifter or a thumb shifter but on a downtube setup it takes some effort. I'm sure i'll get used to it.
The full drive train, fitting an MTB triple setup to an 80's road bike can be done and is actually quite easy. The hardest part is working out the bottom bracket length to get a proper chainline.
The Pletscher kick stand. I love these, always have from the late 70's when I first had one on a bike. For those who can remember them, they are exactly the same and make the exact same noise you may or may not remember
Bar tape. It has been a while, in fact never since I fitted any. Back in the day when it got scraggy it all got ripped off and I went "bare bar". My modern roady tape has lasted and lasted. This stuff though bought as a kit is probably for slightly wider and thicker modern bars? I might un-ravel the thick bulgy bits and trim some off!
And, just back from the test / shakdown ride. A proper Autumnal evening, light drizzle and a bit nippy. It didn't matter, the bike was an absolute joy to ride.
Finished the bike this evening having completed the patio works.
Here she stands finished.
The blumel mudguards are very nice things to behold but are a real labour of love to set up correctly.
The new duel pivot deep drop A559 calipers work really well and with the old 70's / 80's suicide levers, really well. I'd say the braking even using the aux levers is up there with my modern roady which is fitted with cross top aux levers. Very little pressure required and the modulation and braking power is very good.
About the only thing I'm not entirely happy with is the angle of the Pletscher rack, it kicks up a bit and had to do so to clear the brake calipers.
The low / mid end Acera rear bolted straight onto the frame
As did the front. A new Shimano UN55 bottom bracket should last and my calcs regarding chain line and bottom bracket length were spot on. The gears shift beautifully although it is going to take some time to get used to the extended choice of ratios. Previous and this will ring true to anyone who has used downtube shifters is that you'll leave it in a gear rather than shift to another one. Easily done with a brifter or a thumb shifter but on a downtube setup it takes some effort. I'm sure i'll get used to it.
The full drive train, fitting an MTB triple setup to an 80's road bike can be done and is actually quite easy. The hardest part is working out the bottom bracket length to get a proper chainline.
The Pletscher kick stand. I love these, always have from the late 70's when I first had one on a bike. For those who can remember them, they are exactly the same and make the exact same noise you may or may not remember
Bar tape. It has been a while, in fact never since I fitted any. Back in the day when it got scraggy it all got ripped off and I went "bare bar". My modern roady tape has lasted and lasted. This stuff though bought as a kit is probably for slightly wider and thicker modern bars? I might un-ravel the thick bulgy bits and trim some off!
And, just back from the test / shakdown ride. A proper Autumnal evening, light drizzle and a bit nippy. It didn't matter, the bike was an absolute joy to ride.
CanucksTraveller
Macho Business Donkey Wrestler
- Location
- Hertfordshire
Well done, that's a fabulous job sir.
Nigel-YZ1
Guru
- Location
- Somewhere else... maybe soon.
It's a beauty 
Good work with the patio too!
Good work with the patio too!
raleighnut
Legendary Member
- Location
- One of the 'Elite'
Nice 
buzzy-beans
Über Member
- Location
- Woolsthorpe By Colsterworth
Words fail me, truly well done.
davidphilips
Phil Pip
- Location
- Onabike
If it goes as well as it looks and i am sure it does, you have a real great bike, well done sir and hope you have many safe and happy miles together.
OP
OP
Colin_P
Guru
Thank you all for your kind words.
Mistakes, I made a few.....
1, I should have built everything up before spraying the frame so as to avoid scratches. But there again this bike isn't and isn't going to be a show queen, it'll get used for non cargo carrying duties. I cannot drive and my modern roady does not (I've tried) have the clearance for mudguards. The Giant in the background will remain as my heavy hauler. This Pug fills a perfect gap.
2, The thought of even fitting grey cable outers was silly. Another set has gone on the bike in black. Saying that there is still a very short length for the rear derailleur in grey but I doubt anyone would notice. I'll probably end up changing it !
3, Bar tape. I think this may be a case of costly practice will make perfect. Not too happy with it as-is.
4, Top tip for horizontal front facing dropouts; fit the wheel with the tyre flat and avoid a whole lot of head scratching when it come to clearance issues. Of course this would not have been an issue if I'd not fitted the mudguards and the kick stand. This revelation has allowed me to fit the originally intended 28c tyres rather than the newly bought 25c's. Talking of which, I thought the 28c's would go on the roady, nope, not engough clearance, so the roady is now sitting on that new set of Continentals.
5, I should have stuck the Lions halfway down the seat tube, not at the top!
And a question for those in the know or who might know..
The front dropouts are un-equal on the fork which allows and requires you to center the front wheel, and not, as every bike I can remember where you just drop it till it stops and everything is centered by default.
I cannot remember if this is normal on an old road bike such as this or do you think the forks may be damaged in some way? I don't think they are the original, in they are not, forks, they are 27.5"'s rather than 700c'ers the bike would have left the factory with.
Should I be looking for another set of forks? If so, anyone got a pair they'd flog?
Mistakes, I made a few.....
1, I should have built everything up before spraying the frame so as to avoid scratches. But there again this bike isn't and isn't going to be a show queen, it'll get used for non cargo carrying duties. I cannot drive and my modern roady does not (I've tried) have the clearance for mudguards. The Giant in the background will remain as my heavy hauler. This Pug fills a perfect gap.
2, The thought of even fitting grey cable outers was silly. Another set has gone on the bike in black. Saying that there is still a very short length for the rear derailleur in grey but I doubt anyone would notice. I'll probably end up changing it !
3, Bar tape. I think this may be a case of costly practice will make perfect. Not too happy with it as-is.
4, Top tip for horizontal front facing dropouts; fit the wheel with the tyre flat and avoid a whole lot of head scratching when it come to clearance issues. Of course this would not have been an issue if I'd not fitted the mudguards and the kick stand. This revelation has allowed me to fit the originally intended 28c tyres rather than the newly bought 25c's. Talking of which, I thought the 28c's would go on the roady, nope, not engough clearance, so the roady is now sitting on that new set of Continentals.
5, I should have stuck the Lions halfway down the seat tube, not at the top!
And a question for those in the know or who might know..
The front dropouts are un-equal on the fork which allows and requires you to center the front wheel, and not, as every bike I can remember where you just drop it till it stops and everything is centered by default.
I cannot remember if this is normal on an old road bike such as this or do you think the forks may be damaged in some way? I don't think they are the original, in they are not, forks, they are 27.5"'s rather than 700c'ers the bike would have left the factory with.
Should I be looking for another set of forks? If so, anyone got a pair they'd flog?
Last edited:
OP
OP
Colin_P
Guru
Costs.
I was reading a thread on here last night about a Jamis Aurora which I've liked for a while. In this bike I've aped the style and function of one and think I've ended up with a bike with very similar characteristics. But the Aurora is currently selling for £639 down from £749 at Evans.
This bike, I didn't keep track of the costs and if I did, I probably wouldn't have done it...
Bike itself, £0 as I already had it but I believe that when these come up they can be had for <£100
Wheels, £0 already them, not to fancy a set of shimano hubbed eyeletted jobbies. These are actually hybrid wheels are are bit wider than I would have chosen to fit or buy new specifically for this build. They are however, despite being double walled, the same width as the old wheels that were on the bike.
Paint, about £20, all rattle cans, etch primer, matt black base coat, satin laquer topcoat and a few sheets of wet and dry sandpaper.
Decals, about £7, even if they are not period correct, who cares at £7 !
Bottom bracket, about £15
Crank set, about £40, the priciest item of the build
Pedals, Welgos finest, £10
Front derailleur, £10
Rear derailleur, £17
Cassette, £13
Chain, £9
Brake lever set, £4, yes won in an auction. Already had a set of Weinman aero's but wanted the Weinman / Diacompes
Brake caliper set, £31 front and rear (well worth it!)
Rear rack, about £30, yes, I know....
Kick stand, about £10
Mudguards, £23
Cables, £24, £12 x 2 (as I made a mistake on colour choice) Jagwire sets.
Bar tape, £6
Bits and bobs say £20, I ordered a load of M5 sized stainless steel fixings, nyloc nuts, washers, bolts etc of which I only used a tiny number of but obviously now have as spares.
Tyres, £20, yes, those contis only cost a tenner each. Currently on the modern roady and will no doubt be puncture magnets!
YIKES, that lot comes to about £290 !!!
And if I had to add on the cost of the bike, then, say £390
And if I had to add on the cost of the wheels, then, say £490
.......getting close to the cost of a brand new Jamis Aurora there but not half as cool.
And of course the real biggy is that I've not factored in my labour which is a labour of love.
I was reading a thread on here last night about a Jamis Aurora which I've liked for a while. In this bike I've aped the style and function of one and think I've ended up with a bike with very similar characteristics. But the Aurora is currently selling for £639 down from £749 at Evans.
This bike, I didn't keep track of the costs and if I did, I probably wouldn't have done it...
Bike itself, £0 as I already had it but I believe that when these come up they can be had for <£100
Wheels, £0 already them, not to fancy a set of shimano hubbed eyeletted jobbies. These are actually hybrid wheels are are bit wider than I would have chosen to fit or buy new specifically for this build. They are however, despite being double walled, the same width as the old wheels that were on the bike.
Paint, about £20, all rattle cans, etch primer, matt black base coat, satin laquer topcoat and a few sheets of wet and dry sandpaper.
Decals, about £7, even if they are not period correct, who cares at £7 !
Bottom bracket, about £15
Crank set, about £40, the priciest item of the build
Pedals, Welgos finest, £10
Front derailleur, £10
Rear derailleur, £17
Cassette, £13
Chain, £9
Brake lever set, £4, yes won in an auction. Already had a set of Weinman aero's but wanted the Weinman / Diacompes
Brake caliper set, £31 front and rear (well worth it!)
Rear rack, about £30, yes, I know....
Kick stand, about £10
Mudguards, £23
Cables, £24, £12 x 2 (as I made a mistake on colour choice) Jagwire sets.
Bar tape, £6
Bits and bobs say £20, I ordered a load of M5 sized stainless steel fixings, nyloc nuts, washers, bolts etc of which I only used a tiny number of but obviously now have as spares.
Tyres, £20, yes, those contis only cost a tenner each. Currently on the modern roady and will no doubt be puncture magnets!
YIKES, that lot comes to about £290 !!!
And if I had to add on the cost of the bike, then, say £390
And if I had to add on the cost of the wheels, then, say £490
.......getting close to the cost of a brand new Jamis Aurora there but not half as cool.
And of course the real biggy is that I've not factored in my labour which is a labour of love.
GuyBoden
Guru
- Location
- Warrington
Excellent job and great photos, I have a MTB triple on my 1980's steel racer, they're great for spinning up hills.
buzzy-beans
Über Member
- Location
- Woolsthorpe By Colsterworth
But the thing is Colin that your bike is unique to you, furthermore, you know every single square inch of it and last of all it positively shouts out QUALITY, QUALITY, QUALITY.
As I have written before, truly well done, you can ride it with a bloody great big self gratification smile across your chubby little cheeks with a warming thought flooding through your mind "bloody hell, I did all of this".
OP
OP
Colin_P
Guru
But the thing is Colin that your bike is unique to you, furthermore, you know every single square inch of it and last of all it positively shouts out QUALITY, QUALITY, QUALITY.
As I have written before, truly well done, you can ride it with a bloody great big self gratification smile across your chubby little cheeks with a warming thought flooding through your mind "bloody hell, I did all of this".
I know, you cannt beat or add to the satisfaction doing it yourself. As the old saying goes, anything is possible with a cheque book. (or debit / credit cards / paypal etc these days). It would have certainly been a bit easier if I'd toddled off to Evans or the LBS. Talking of which, there isn't an LBS here anymore!
Another random thought on the brakes; to get everything just so alignment wise I had to use V-brake blocks and ditch the as supplied road blocks.
I don't recall ever having to do that with a bike from that era, Carltons, Raleighs or even a 50's Rotrax. How far out is it, anything a bit of filing won't cure?
OP
OP
Colin_P
Guru
I've always been hands with bikes, right from the mid 70's and cannot ever recall this either on any fronts. Rears yes, they'd need centering but fronts no, just push the wheel right into the dropouts and job done. Not this bike though, it needed centering.
When I've got time i'll carefully inspect the fork.
Looks like I might need to source another set which may be tricky with being a 25" frame.
