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ChrisEyles
Guru
- Location
- Devon
Actually its just ocurred to me it's not quite complete - I assume there would have been a full chain guard, at some stage.
1940s Raleigh rescue - Should I or shouldn't I?
- Thread starter ChrisEyles
- Start date
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ChrisEyles
Guru
- Location
- Devon
I'm planning on starting on the 1937 bike now - first coat of paint is drying in the shed 
The tricky bit will be rebuilding the rear wheel!
I measured one of the non-driveside spokes that I kept at 304mm. Unfortunately I've snipped all the driveside spokes to get the rim out for straightening (it was badly taco'd beforehand) so can't check these any more! Does anyone know if the spoke length differs from side to side, or should I be good with forty 304mm spokes?
The tricky bit will be rebuilding the rear wheel!
I measured one of the non-driveside spokes that I kept at 304mm. Unfortunately I've snipped all the driveside spokes to get the rim out for straightening (it was badly taco'd beforehand) so can't check these any more! Does anyone know if the spoke length differs from side to side, or should I be good with forty 304mm spokes?
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ChrisEyles
Guru
- Location
- Devon
Blimey, after a quick look I'm not sure how to remove the freewheel either!
It looks a bit like this one (only it is an old BSA model):
I expected nice big slots to fit a removal tool into (or use a punch and hammer on to loosen the freewheel), but these dinky little depressions don't look up to the job :S
It looks a bit like this one (only it is an old BSA model):
I expected nice big slots to fit a removal tool into (or use a punch and hammer on to loosen the freewheel), but these dinky little depressions don't look up to the job :S
AndyRM
XOXO
- Location
- North Shields
Sheldon's your man for some tips: http://sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html
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ChrisEyles
Guru
- Location
- Devon
Indeed he does - should have read this earlier:
Warning: loosen a freewheel before cutting the spokes to replace the rim
Oh well.. Chalk that one up to experience! I already tried using a hammer and punch on the small holes, but couldn't get it to budge.
If all else fails, the back-up (cheat) plan is to buy a new rear wheel (they are surprisingly reasonable from flying pidgeon, £36 for new rear wheel with inner tube and tyre fitted).
Warning: loosen a freewheel before cutting the spokes to replace the rim
Oh well.. Chalk that one up to experience! I already tried using a hammer and punch on the small holes, but couldn't get it to budge.
If all else fails, the back-up (cheat) plan is to buy a new rear wheel (they are surprisingly reasonable from flying pidgeon, £36 for new rear wheel with inner tube and tyre fitted).
Esroh
Regular
- Location
- Mayo Ireland
Chris. I just bought as we call them here a High Nelly and googled for info on restoration. It lead me to this thread. Its been a great read. Looking forward to the 2nd job.
U
User42423
Guest
Blimey, after a quick look I'm not sure how to remove the freewheel either!
It looks a bit like this one (only it is an old BSA model):
I expected nice big slots to fit a removal tool into (or use a punch and hammer on to loosen the freewheel), but these dinky little depressions don't look up to the job :S
Hi Chris. The easiest way I've found to remove this type of 'slotted' free-wheel is as follows:
Acquire the correct free-wheel tool first, remove the outer axle securing nut. Place the removal socket over the axle shaft so the teeth on socket slot in the free-wheel grooves, re-attach the securing nut, & tighten up. Place the wheel upside down (free-wheel lower side) into a work bench vice. Tighten vice jaws around free-wheel socket remover, so it's locked in place. Lean your body over the top (quarter side), grip wheel & gentle rock the wheel side to side. Increase force as required.
The wheel should release after a bit of pressure.
Good luck.
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ChrisEyles
Guru
- Location
- Devon
While I've been investigating the best way to deal with the rear wheel I've managed to get a couple of coats of paint on the frame. One more coat to go and I'll pop the BB and headset together.
I also had to re-paint the handlebars, which will hopefully look quite smart in satin black. I can't work out if they would originally have had plastic/rubber hand grips - the bar ends have a textured grip surface (which I've not seen on any other set of rod brake 'bars), which suggests to me this might not have been the case.
I also had to re-paint the handlebars, which will hopefully look quite smart in satin black. I can't work out if they would originally have had plastic/rubber hand grips - the bar ends have a textured grip surface (which I've not seen on any other set of rod brake 'bars), which suggests to me this might not have been the case.
mjr
Comfy armchair to one person & a plank to the next
- Location
- mostly Norfolk, sometimes Somerset
Hmmm. The stays come off. I'd be tempted to put a belt drive on it, just to mess with people.
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ChrisEyles
Guru
- Location
- Devon
Well, I have been making a little more progress with the bike (still very slowly!) - the headset and BB bearings are back in place, the paint job on the frame is finished, and the rod brake bits and bobs are halfway cleaned up/painted. Pics to come soon!
I took the old hub and rim into a couple of bike shops to ask if they had a removal tool for the freewheel, and what sort of spokes to buy... and both said the wheel's not worth rebuilding (due mainly to the still-wonky rim). One of the guys saying this owns several rod brake bikes, so I guess knows what he's talking about. So I need to source a new back wheel at least, and possibly a front one too - Flying Pigeon do some suitable ones, but don't have a front wheel in stock at the moment, so I'm still searching around for the cheapest solution!
I took the finished bike out for a ride with my wife, parents, sister, and brother-in-law today, down to the coast along the Exe estuary - unfortunately it pee'd it down on the way back home, but was still a lovely ride, and I'm very proud of my wife for managing a 42 mile round trip
Back home, I noticed the wheel bearings have loosened up a little so the cones need tightening up a little - a nice little job for a rainy day!
I took the old hub and rim into a couple of bike shops to ask if they had a removal tool for the freewheel, and what sort of spokes to buy... and both said the wheel's not worth rebuilding (due mainly to the still-wonky rim). One of the guys saying this owns several rod brake bikes, so I guess knows what he's talking about. So I need to source a new back wheel at least, and possibly a front one too - Flying Pigeon do some suitable ones, but don't have a front wheel in stock at the moment, so I'm still searching around for the cheapest solution!
I took the finished bike out for a ride with my wife, parents, sister, and brother-in-law today, down to the coast along the Exe estuary - unfortunately it pee'd it down on the way back home, but was still a lovely ride, and I'm very proud of my wife for managing a 42 mile round trip
Back home, I noticed the wheel bearings have loosened up a little so the cones need tightening up a little - a nice little job for a rainy day!
robsa
Veteran
- Location
- chesterfield
Having a similar problem with my rudge, none of my lbs know how to change the sprocket on the dynohub ,its threaded not held on with a circlip ,its all I need to do before shes done
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ChrisEyles
Guru
- Location
- Devon
Well, the frame is all painted up, and the rod brake bits and bobs are all ready to go. Still waiting to hear from flying pigeon to see if they can supply a suitable cheap set of wheels, but really looking forward to putting everything together when I've finally got them in my grubby mitts
robsa
Veteran
- Location
- chesterfield
Here she is
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mjr
Comfy armchair to one person & a plank to the next
- Location
- mostly Norfolk, sometimes Somerset
That's a big bell but a bit far from the grips for me.
robsa
Veteran
- Location
- chesterfield
50p on car boot,couldnt not buy it for that.
It gets in the way when I flip it over to diddle with the rear stirrup .
Oooer missus
It gets in the way when I flip it over to diddle with the rear stirrup .
Oooer missus
