11 Miles Biking?

[Crackle]

I used to commute to uni, long time ago, in a galaxy far far away. A rucksack was easily the most convenient but I did also have a locker at uni and a system of swopping and leaving things. Get yourself a very good lock and find as secure a spot as you can.

 

[Pat "5mph"]

My family made me sound like a madman when I suggested the idea.

Yes, this is often the reaction you get from non cycling people if you mention cycling regularly any distance.
I get it for the 5 miles to work: what? how long does it take you? (30 min max btw, much faster than the 2 buses I would have to take), do you cycle in the rain too??
My preference is rack and panniers, I use waterproof Ortliebs, it rains a lot here.
As suggested by @vickster, investigate secure parking, get a good lock, they are heavy, but you could leave it at Uni to save carrying the weight every time.
It is worth, if you have a place to keep them at Uni, to invest in a spare track pump, a couple of spare inner tubes, maybe some chain oil if you get a lot of rain.
Those I mean in addition of the spare inner, mini pump and mini tool that you should have on the bike at all times.
Just in case you get there, find you have a mechanical or a puncture: if you have the know how, you can get yourself back on the road after your lectures.
A commuter bike needs to be reliable: it's all very well saying, ah, I can change an inner tube in 10 minutes, but can you do it in bitter cold, in the dark, in heavy rain?
The secret of reliable, successful bike commuting imo, are Marathon tyres, the choice of a decent route with not much motorized traffic, not a dubious glass strewn path either, the clothing you need for the weather, a good set of lights on the bike at all times: even if you don't cycle in the dark on purpose, you might get delayed.
All the above doesn't need to cost the earth, but, imo, you need to have it for a safe, enjoyable, reliable commute.
Don't forget to find time to regularly clean, inspect, lube the bike.
All the best!

 

[I like Skol]

Yes, this is often the reaction you get from non cycling people if you mention cycling regularly any distance.
I get it for the 5 miles to work: what? how long does it take you? (30 min max btw, much faster than the 2 buses I would have to take), do you cycle in the rain too??
My preference is rack and panniers, I use waterproof Ortliebs, it rains a lot here.
As suggested by @vickster, investigate secure parking, get a good lock, they are heavy, but you could leave it at Uni to save carrying the weight every time.
It is worth, if you have a place to keep them at Uni, to invest in a spare track pump, a couple of spare inner tubes, maybe some chain oil if you get a lot of rain.
Those I mean in addition of the spare inner, mini pump and mini tool that you should have on the bike at all times.
Just in case you get there, find you have a mechanical or a puncture: if you have the know how, you can get yourself back on the road after your lectures.
A commuter bike needs to be reliable: it's all very well saying, ah, I can change an inner tube in 10 minutes, but can you do it in bitter cold, in the dark, in heavy rain?
The secret of reliable, successful bike commuting imo, are Marathon tyres, the choice of a decent route with not much motorized traffic, not a dubious glass strewn path either, the clothing you need for the weather, a good set of lights on the bike at all times: even if you don't cycle in the dark on purpose, you might get delayed.
All the above doesn't need to cost the earth, but, imo, you need to have it for a safe, enjoyable, reliable commute.
Don't forget to find time to regularly clean, inspect, lube the bike.
All the best!

^^^ All very good advice. It doesn't have to be hard work but a little advance planning makes things a lot easier. Remember the 6 Ps, Proper Preparation Prevents Pish Poor Performance, or alternatively, fail to prepare, prepare to fail!

You are already well ahead of the game by asking advice of people that already do this. Unfortunately many people are not so sensible and will pull and old neglected bike out of the shed one sunny day and decide to ride to work or attempt a big charity ride on the spur of the moment.....

EDIT: Just to add, don't feel that you have to rush out and buy lots of gear right away. This is a sure fire way to buy lots of stuff that you end up never using. Start with the basics, a pump and inner tube, a lock, maybe some lights if you think riding in the dark is even a remote possibility. You will soon work out what you need and what works for you, then buy stuff that is appropriate to your situation.

Also, practice changing the inner tube in the comfort of your own home with the tools you will have when out on the road. This way you will know the drill and that you have everything you need and then won't panic when it happens for real.

 

[zapshe]

Thanks for all the info !

invest in a spare track pump, a couple of spare inner tubes, maybe some chain oil if you get a lot of rain.
Those I mean in addition of the spare inner, mini pump and mini tool that you should have on the bike at all times.

I'm going to look it up myself, but would you happen to already know about a kit or something that could have all these items (Preferably on the cheap side).

Thanks again everyone !

 

[vickster]

Thanks for all the info !



I'm going to look it up myself, but would you happen to already know about a kit or something that could have all these items (Preferably on the cheap side).

Thanks again everyone !

I’m sure Walmart or Target could furnish you with these bits (most of us are in U.K. so shop recommendations won’t really help)

Obviously inner tubes depend on tyre size

 

[Pat "5mph"]

Thanks for all the info !
I'm going to look it up myself, but would you happen to already know about a kit or something that could have all these items (Preferably on the cheap side).
Thanks again everyone !

One would usually buy those items separately, different outlets charge different prices for the same stuff.
You local bike shops (LBS) is a good starting point to at least have a look at the items in the flesh, so to speak.
You also need to make sure the inners and the pumps are suitable for your bike, mini tools are mostly the same but more expensive ones are easier to use and have more bits.
More advice lol: should you have a mechanical on the road, even if you don't know what to do, you can ask another, passing cyclist if they can help.
Within limits, of course.
However, if you don't carry a spare inner tube most won't be able to help as they differ from bike to bike.
It is better to be independent, so start practicing taking wheels and tyres off at home, read about straightening your handlebars (in case you have an off that puts them out of true), read up on the M check.

 

[I like Skol]

Just been reading your 'What bike?' thread. If you are going to be using the one bike for leisure and commuting then I strongly recommend you don't get a full suss mtb.
This is a bit of a cross post between the two threads but here is my suggestion.

A hardtail cross country MTB with short to medium travel fork that has a lock-out option. Obviously I am going to recommend something from GT because they are my favourite, but other manufacturers do similar bikes. How tall are you? I would suggest staying away from the 29" wheel bikes unless you are very tall as many people state they are less nimble than the smaller wheeled bikes. Having said that, I am 6' 1" and ride an old 26" wheel bike so I can't imagine the 29" wheels suiting anyone under about 6' 6"! IMO 27.5" wheels are the best choice from the current crop.

THIS should be suitable and well inside a $1000 budget, although the forks don't have a lock-out function. THIS is a bit more expensive but has better spec and the lock-out that will be a bonus for the commute. Confusingly, I can't work out what size wheels it has 27.5 or 29? Not very good info, maybe it depends on bike size?

 

[bruce1530]

Also, speak to your Uni and ask them what facilities they have. Most of them have a big “green” and/or “active travel” agenda, and they’re investing in facilities. The one I work at has recently put in a lot of bike racks in spaces with CCTV and swipe card access, made tool kits and track pumps available around the campus etc. Also ask about shower facilities and lockers.

 

[Sixmile]

Fair play to you for choosing to cycle to uni. My wife starts uni again in September and I'm trying to convince her to ride at least a bit of the 14 or so miles in, especially as the last few miles are through the city centre which is a nightmare to drive through.

I'm going to look it up myself, but would you happen to already know about a kit or something that could have all these items (Preferably on the cheap side)

Over the last few years I have bought everything I need... and more... and a few spares but mostly all bargains in my book. The only way really to snap up the bargains is to be on the lookout online. Loads of the retailers will run sales and discounts throughout different times of the year. Sometimes it's best even to look for things that you don't even need at the minute i.e. winter gear (overshoes, waterproofs, mudguards, gloves) during the summer months as that's when you can find them the cheapest, then in the winter some retailers will sell off last years summer gear at knock down prices. I just wouldn't go bargain basement with your purchases as often with cycling gear, you get what you pay for. If you're riding 3 days a week you'll want clothing and equipment that you can rely on and will last you a good few seasons.

 

[Crackle]

Just been reading your 'What bike?' thread. If you are going to be using the one bike for leisure and commuting then I strongly recommend you don't get a full suss mtb.
This is a bit of a cross post between the two threads but here is my suggestion.

A hardtail cross country MTB with short to medium travel fork that has a lock-out option. Obviously I am going to recommend something from GT because they are my favourite, but other manufacturers do similar bikes. How tall are you? I would suggest staying away from the 29" wheel bikes unless you are very tall as many people state they are less nimble than the smaller wheeled bikes. Having said that, I am 6' 1" and ride an old 26" wheel bike so I can't imagine the 29" wheels suiting anyone under about 6' 6"! IMO 27.5" wheels are the best choice from the current crop.

THIS should be suitable and well inside a $1000 budget, although the forks don't have a lock-out function. THIS is a bit more expensive but has better spec and the lock-out that will be a bonus for the commute. Confusingly, I can't work out what size wheels it has 27.5 or 29? Not very good info, maybe it depends on bike size?

And further to this, I'd consider buying a cheap hack for Uni, one that you won't mind getting beat up or stolen. I equipped both my sons with cheap bikes for Uni, in fact I got one from I like Skol which is still going strong.

 

[Lonestar]

What are the roads like where you intend to cycle?

 

[zapshe]

Thanks again guys for the advice. I'll make sure to ask the university about such areas. Where I live, bikes definitely get stolen, but the rates are pretty low. I was going to get a forgetaboutit lock (spelled it wrong) for the main lockup and then my old lock as a secondary defense on the university bike racks. I've already decided against full suspension after being informed by you guys :3! The roads I intent to cycle on will vary as I move through the city. It'll be smooth, then rough, under construction, etc..

THIS should be suitable and well inside a $1000 budget, although the forks don't have a lock-out function. THIS is a bit more expensive but has better spec and the lock-out that will be a bonus for the commute. Confusingly, I can't work out what size wheels it has 27.5 or 29? Not very good info, maybe it depends on bike size?

Thanks for the recommendations. Again, I don't know what I'm looking at, so how would those bikes compare to:

http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/29er-mountain-bikes/fantom29-nx-tcs-mountainbikes.htm
or
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/29er-mountain-bikes/fantom29-xt-tcs-mountainbikes.htm

Thanks again everyone ! You guys are extremely helpful and I'm grateful .

 

[SkipdiverJohn]

And further to this, I'd consider buying a cheap hack for Uni, one that you won't mind getting beat up or stolen. I equipped both my sons with cheap bikes for Uni, in fact I got one from I like Skol which is still going strong.

This is the most important piece of advice so far. Places like university campuses and the surrounding areas are magnets for thieves, as they know there will be plenty of students and plenty of choice of bikes to steal. If you take a nice bike to a high risk area, sooner or later it WILL get stolen. High security locks are only a deterrent against casual thieves and drunken joyriders. Professionals go tooled-up with hydraulic jacks and angle grinders, which will destroy ANY known cycle lock.
The ideal bike for going to Uni on is a cheap bike that looks neglected and scruffy and has very little secondhand value and isn't fitted with any high quality parts that are worth stripping off the bike. Component theft is a big problem.
Where I live, if a good bike is locked with a high security D lock, what happens is the bike will get stripped of everything, leaving just the frame and possibly the back wheel - even forks will get taken off the frame! Cheapo hack bikes never get touched, they always target the valuable ones.

 

[Vantage]

[QUOTE 5326486, member: 45"][/QUOTE]

I hate to agree with @SkipdiverJohn but it really isn't. I've lost enough bikes to know.
The last time it happened was about 10 years ago and even when the current bike is locked with a gold rated behemoth of steel chain I still get jittery about it being out of sight.
The op is best off on a cheap piece of crap that won't leave that all too familiar butterflies in the tummy feeling when/if it goes missing.

 

[swansonj]

But if the OP is relying on a bike for 11 mile journeys, they need something reliable, which contradicts the “cheap pile of crap”. A battered frame, peeling bar tape and a torn saddle may all help put off thieves, but i’d say better-than-crap gears and brakes and puncture resistant tyres will make a big difference to the sustainability of the bike as a transport mode not an optional leisure activity.