I've been in Ireland for a week with my sister as part of our Mum's 70th birthday. Also along was a long time family friend who hails from there. I've had no internet for a week, watched no TV apart from one hurling match, and have been blissfully far away from the hustle and bustle of my normal London life. My Granny was Irish but lived in London all the time I knew her, and she died before I was 10 years old. Now aged 46 this is the first time I've visited the country of her birth. My Mum is a keen gardener and we had a number of those on the 'places to visit list', and our family friend Cathy hailed from the south east coast, so we spent a few days there getting a guided tour of the area, and meeting members of her huge and incredibly hospitable and entertaining family.
In between these activities I planned to squeeze in some cycling on a bike I'd brought with me from London, so I'll focus on the 3 decent length rides I did during the week. I had been told many things about cycling in Ireland from friends and family alike. Be prepared for rain, be prepared for some rubbish roads and maybe drivers, and enjoy the amazing scenery.
My first trip was a short 35 miler, that included Tintern Abbey. Isn't Tintern Abbey in Wales I hear you ask? (I did too). Yes it is. In the 1200's the Anglo-Norman Knight William Marshall, first Earl of Pembroke, was the patron of Tintern Abbey in Monmouthshire, Wales. On his return to Ireland, with a new title, Lord of Leinster, his ship ran into a storm. Marshall vowed to establish a monastery wherever he landed safely. After landing at Bannow Bay in Wexford he bequeathed 3,500 hectares of land for the foundation of a Cistercian abbey. The abbey was named after the one in Wales and also colonised by monks from there. More info:
http://www.megalithicireland.com/Tintern Abbey, Wexford.html
It was then along Euro Velo Route 1 out to the sea.
It then meanders along the coast and I seemingly had it all to myself. I went a bit off route to visit Hook Lighthouse, the oldest working lighthouse in Ireland, and the second oldest working one in the world.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hook_Lighthouse
Then it was back to meet the others for lunch. It was not a particularly hilly part of the country, but it was exposed and windy, and the terrain was undulating, with virtually no flat at all, so it was quite draining. The surface of the Euro Velo Route 1 was fine, but some of the other minor road surfaces were pretty bad, no huge deep pot holes, but a filling rattling surface that changed constantly and there was no way to pick a clean line through it. One particularly bad section for a few miles even bounced my water bottle out of its holder onto the road. Otherwise it was amazingly quiet and enjoyable and I still made good time. Route:
View: https://ridewithgps.com/trips/34793327
After a few days we drove over to the west coast and were based just outside my Granny's home town of Castleisland. We tracked down and met some relatives still in the area, yet more amazing Irish hospitality, giving us the full family history tour of the area, bring names to life and filling in many gaps I had in my own family tree, it was fascinating stuff.
This part of Ireland, Co. Kerry is perhaps the most visited part of Ireland. I'd heard it could be incredibly overcrowded during the peak summer months, but this early in the season it was possible to explore the jaw dropping scenery in relative peace and quiet. I was itching to get out on my bike, and had planned a 77 mile route that started with a trip to Killarney National Park. I was getting more and more excited the closer I got to it.
I passed through the Muckross House Estate to visit the Torc waterfall
And then cycled around the designated cycle path around the lake which was good.
Then out onto the road to begin the 3 mile climb up to Molls Gap. I can see now why it gets so many visitors, around every bend is an amazing view. I'm lucky as there's hardly any traffic. But forget about average speeds and soak up the scenery, I'm not passing through this without stopping and getting loads of pics, and despite occasionally threatening skies I'm lucky with the weather too.
The view from Ladies View
At Molls Gap I turned off and entered the descent into the Black Valley, so called because it was the last place to get electricity in Ireland. The top section was absolutely brilliant, no straights, it just flows from one bend into another, very technical but maximum grins. I passed about 8 motor bikers coming the other way, I finger waved and nodded at each of them, and they all finger waved back, and the ones with open face helmets were grinning as much as I was, brilliant fun.
Along the valley floor for a bit and then another climb for 2.5 miles or so towards the Gap of Dunloe, the only other traffic some cyclists and some fellow tourists in a traditional horse and cart.
And the view from the top, ahead of another amazing and technical descent for about 4 miles, that again had me whooping with delight.
It was then 20 or so miles back to the house, just under 77 miles for the day and one of the best days cycling I've ever done. The section from 31-55 miles of this route is pretty much my idea of pure cycling heaven, and I don't think I'd ever tire of riding it. A truly wonderful days cycling. Route:
View: https://ridewithgps.com/trips/34884694
The only thing the above ride was missing was some long, open, fast descents, but I ticked that box on our way back towards the UK. I managed to squeeze in another 77 mile ride by riding out to and up Mount Leinster. Quite a gruelling climb over very different terrain, but it was still good riding. I came across and rode some of the '9 stones route', which looked worth coming back and riding again at a later date. The view from the highest bit of road.
And when there's no trees and you've got an itch that needs scratching, a simple post can be a priceless addition to the landscape.
From the top it was a fast sweeping descent for about 6 miles.
I was on my own and totally unfamiliar with the road so held back a bit, but still hit 46 mph on the way day down, arriving at the bottom with a frozen on Joker-like grin.
Route:
View: https://ridewithgps.com/trips/34966353
All in all I rode over 200 miles for the week and did not get rained on once. Irish drivers are the most courteous and patient I have ever come across. I had one close pass over those 200 miles, by a BMW 5 Series, proving their propensity for douche-baggery is a worldwide rather than a UK phenomenon. All other drivers were happy to hang back and wait until it was safe to overtake. I did not see many cyclists, but every one I did see I waved at, and they all waved back, motorbikers waved, and I had more car drivers wave at me than ever before.
Some of the back roads on the East coast were quite poor, but overall they were much better than I was expecting and signage was great. The food was utterly fantastic everywhere, much better than the UK, the fish and prawns were bigger than I see in London and I got twice as many of them. The people are amazing and I'm only sorry it has taken me so long to visit. Back to the ferry. The weather has been great, no rain all week, I even have an Irish tan.
Goodbye Ireland, I love you and I promise I'll be back.
But this lady's eyes were on stalks! Evidently not used to see someone cycle in. Yet. 
