My ride
today was a mere 1.8 miles, crossing the Mawddach Estuary by the Barmouth bridge at 6.20 this morning, in the half-light before the sun had risen to light up the mountain tops. It was an inspiring start to the day. I then joined the first train of the day for the four-hour journey to Birmingham.
It was the last stage in a weekend ride through Mid and parts of North Wales, starting at Wolverhampton on Friday afternoon. I hadn’t ridden the loaded tourer for a while – with the weight and the hills it is a different game from my usual ride and I soon realised I would have to cut back my planned mileage for the next 3 days.
On day 1 I only got as far as Ludlow, about 40 miles, and laid out my bivi on Whitcliffe Common, a wooded hillside overlooking Ludlow castle. I probably surprised one or two late dog-walkers but had a comfortable night.
Shropshire - Clee Hill ; Ludlow from Whitcliffe Common
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It rained for about 2 hours on Saturday morning. I took the hilliest route possible to Knighton, where I stopped for a full breakfast and chatted to two other sometime cyclists. Not a Welsh person in the café, only English and South African escapees and Australian tourists, but the best breakfast I’ve had for a long time.
I took minor roads to Llanidloes. Mid-Wales is in some ways better cycling country than North Wales as it has a huge web of tiny roads, which are often exquisitely beautiful but excruciatingly steep. It is lovely countryside, with astonishingly vivid greens – I sometimes felt like I was in a photograph with the saturation turned right up.
Mid-Wales scenery
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Continuing north, I got to Dinas Mawddwy at 7 o’clock, and slogged very slowly up to the Bwlch Oerddrws pass on the A470, where I knew of a good camping spot, behind a wall and away from the road. It was a cold night but with amazing stars, although I saw less and less of them as I pulled the sleeping bag ever tighter around me.
Bwlch Oerddrws at sunset ; View from my campsite in the morning
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On Sunday I did 94 miles in a kind of strange S-shape, to finish at Barmouth in the evening. I rode first past Talyllyn lake down to the coast road near Llwyngwril, for the magnificent cliff route down to Fairbourn. I took a particularly steep lane into the hills past Kings Youth hostel, then coasted into Dolgellau from the Cadair Idris road.
Cadair Idris ; Talyllyn
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I followed the A494 up to Bala and another café stop, then turned NW on the minor road to the south of Llyn Celyn reservoir, and under the looming bulk of Arenig Fach. From there on it all went more quickly. I zoomed down through Cwm Prysor to Trawsfynydd, then the A470 southwards with the outline of the Rhinogs away over moorland on my right. I reached Barmouth just after sunset, and had some fish and chips before heading over Barmouth bridge to another bivi spot for the night.
Barmouth bridge
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and yours truly
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