7 April. The coastal roller coaster
When I was working and thinking about retirement, puffing up 20% gradients on a cold morning wasn't part of the vision. It was more about firesides and slippers. But here I am; definitely retired and trying to keep the other OAPs in sight as their blinking rear lights fade away into the distance.
There is blue sky which is good but it isn't warm and the wind is from the north and gusting to 45mph according to the weather forecast. I have no reason to disbelieve it. There is an invisible hand on my chest pushing me back down the hill or catching me out with a sideways shove when I pass a field gateway. I am riding with the Wednesday/Thursday/ Friday club - or WTF - which isn't a club and doesn't always ride on those days. All retired. All obscenely fit. All in front of me.
High tide at Ruan Lanihorne and talking of inconsequential things...
This is a hilly ride almost straight away and after the flat road through riverside Tresillian, launches itself uphill onto the Roseland peninsula, a gnarled hand of bony fingers reaching into the sea, steep drops into quiet, empty valleys and equally steep climbs back out again. By following the coast we encounter every valley and every headland.
We ride through farmyards spread either side of the lane, mud sliding down the mudguards. Thats what they are for! We continue through old oak woodlands which hang over the lane, blocking the light, the road pitted from winter rain and frost, the surface ripped to reveal the rock and gravel beneath. This is Lord Falmouth's land or sometimes it belongs to the Duchy of Cornwall. Here it is still feudal and the footpaths are few and far between. Be careful trespasser, you are tolerated on this lanes and no more.
Tractors pass, a rattle from the trailer and a gust of exhaust. Busy time for farmers right now with seeds to get in and fields ploughed and harrowed. The tractor drivers have no time for a bunch of cyclists and are impatient to pass. We stop as soon as we can to let them go by.
Onto the coast now, a fractal mirror of blues and greens. The surface is ruffled by the wind into steep grey waves further out but nearer the land it is protected, almost alluring. We stop at Portholland for a break and admire the cliffs, dark and gaunt against the bright light. Another stop briefly in Portloe, the crabber boats pulled onto the beach, the village empty of life. We talk about people we have known and things that happened many years before as older people do, resting on the cross bar, clothes tugged by the constant wind.
Portholland. "Yes there are more hills, what did you expect....?"
Up. Down. Up again. Down again. A procession of lung busting uphills, the Wahoo insisting that the gradient is beyond 20% but I think it is exaggerating, and then heart in mouth, swooping descents daring each other to go faster, to bank the bike even more until one of us locks up the back wheel on a hairpin and almost slides into an oncoming car. Time to calm down.
We debate a coffee stop at Porthluney beach near Caerhays but I don't fancy the next climb after a bladder of coffee and a stomach full of cake and so up again and inland to the Lost Gardens of Heligan cafe, busy again after the winter sleep, and the largest slice of coffee cake I have ever seen. There is some debate now about the best way home and the term 'flatter' is mentioned several times, largely by me.
It isn't flat. More lanes, more sweeping views across the spring fields to the china clay works that dominate the horizon of everywhere in mid Cornwall. Tall waste tips of china clay residue, the white scars of rain erosion showing through the scrubby vegetation like bones breaking through flesh. Sometimes all I see is the wheel in front until I think I could draw from memory every nuance and detail of its derailleur and seat stays, the winking red light beneath the saddle. Sometimes I look at the view, the scattered houses and farms, the changing landscape of farming here.
The wind has increased now and is a physical force on the hill tops, dropping away though as we duck beneath the tall Cornish hedges, solid granite and daffodils, wild garlic and white frothed hawthorn. This is a longer ride than I expected and with more uphill although all of our devices disagree on the exact height and distance, as does RWGPS, Wahoo and Strava on the data from my device. I know how my legs feel. It is good to be back in Truro, leaning on our bikes talking of inconsequential things and places we may go and a ride on Sunday if anyone wants it, the weather promised to be better.
I do like riding alone and to be with my own thoughts but I also increasingly like riding in company and the support of a friendly wheel. I enjoy the banter and appreciate the advice. This was a good ride through the best (or worst) of rural and coastal south Cornwall. It makes me feel content and that is what I wanted from retirement. The fireside and slippers can wait for another year.