15 May. Clay Pits, Saints and Camels
Spoiler alert before we start: contrary to the way they are described much of this ride is mis-named. The Clay Trail is gravel - not clay. There are no saints on the Saints' Way. I didn't see any camels on the Camel Trail. All very disappointing.
My plan was a longer ride with as much off road (but only gravel tracks) as possible and the rest on back lanes, which might as well be gravel tracks after the winter rains and ten years of austerity. I haven't been on the Clay Trails before so was looking forward to meeting them. The Clay rail begins, it appears, in the centre of St Austell; a town once described as the worst place to live in Britain, although in the spring sunshine today it seemed OK. Very empty though. I worked in the town for eleven years so I have a soft spot for it.
The only way is up once you start the trail, softly at first and initially on tarmac and then as the trail steepens into double figures of gradient, it turns to gravel.
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I had the joy of overtaking some mountain bikers on electric bikes- that doesn't happen often to me. The trail went on and on with steepening parts coinciding with the loosest surface forcing me to stay in the saddle to keep the back tyre planted, before suddenly arriving at the top of the hills behind St Austell, 770 feet higher than when I started. There is a huge hole in the ground here known as Baal Pit and a pyramidal pile of spoil from the china clay workings that locals call Sky Tip.
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Looking across to St Austell Bay from the new cycle path bridge
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Sky Tip. There is a flag planted on the summit - a Cornish flag of course
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Baal Pit with its turquoise pool at the bottom. There is a plan for a new 'garden village' here.
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The trail goes on.....
Leaving the Clay Trail behind takes me onto the back lanes through the hidden Luxulyan valley, once a major transport route from the clay pits to the port at Par Docks. There are tunnels beneath me that took clay slurry down to the port and above me an aqueduct carrying water to St Austell. The valley is steep sided and dark, beeches and oaks have grown tall here and undisturbed, creating a green tunnel.
Once past Luxulyan I am on the Saints Way. It took Madame Crow and myself two days to walk this trail about ten years ago and today I can dismiss it in a few hours. It takes a line across Cornwall from south coast to north coast - or vice versa - alternating between boggy valleys with dwarf oaks and then up onto moors cut through with granite tors. There were no Saints visible. I expect they were busy today doing Saint stuff somewhere else.
The Saints Way leads seamlessly onto NCN 3 at Lanhydrock, cutting through a mature beech forest (more off road) and then across the A30 on another special bridge for cyclists. Bodmin appears and I continue to follow NCN signs through the town centre and now onto the Camel Trail.
Gravel again but hard packed. The tyres make that characteristic noise of tyres on gravel, which warns pedestrians I am coming. I see two bikes and perhaps a dozen walkers in ten miles of trail. So different to the usual crowds on this popular trail.
Leaving the trail before Wadebridge I am once again on back lanes and heading uphill (again) along treelined lanes following streams that I can hear but not see. A brief rendezvous with the busy world as I re -cross the A30 at Roche and then it is pell mell for the Goss Moor trail. Another trail! I am gravel biking like an American.
Once past Goss Moor and back onto roads the route carries on down deep hidden Cornish lanes, very quiet lanes and some of them actually 'Quiet Lanes'.
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I am getting tired now but there is more to be done. I am really beginning to resent the hills, wanting to just cruise along rather than puff and grind up steep winding lanes, the top always further than I think.
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The final hill in Truro, 250 feet of 5-8%, is not normally too bad but today it is as much as I can manage. Pleased to be home after six hours on the bike, mind filled with images and sounds. Hedgerows, sweeping views, the sound of tyres on gravel, the click of gears shifting down. Another long ride but I am enjoying the challenge, learning how to pace myself, how to ignore the minor pains and tiredness. I am discovering that a longer ride is a mental challenge as much as a physical one. I continue to work towards two targets for this summer - my first century ride and my first 200k ride. If only it wasn't so hilly here......
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