21 and 22 March. We should have listened to the news
The world continues to spin at much the same speed in its majestic orbit around the sun but oh how so much changes in a space of a few days.
On Thursday last week, I thought we were being mildly naughty taking the camper van to Somerset for a couple of days. Doing some cycling whilst it was still possible. We stay on a farm with no one else around, pay by bank transfer so we never meet the owner, are self contained for water and toilet facilities, take all our own food and don't stop for fuel. When we got home today I had a text from my son asking if I "felt terrible" and that I had "disappointed Matthew Hancock". Maybe we should listen to the news more.
The first day we started from Castle Cary mainly because I liked the name and we had never been there. It was bright but cold, the wind plucking at my clothes and rolling my bidon across the car park. I am always being told to take it easy so we did a short ride on our hybrids today, both red and matching even to the twinned bidons, one now slightly scratched after its getaway bid. Madame tells me I am being pretentious calling it a bidon; on a hybrid it is simply a 'water bottle'.
It was a late start after spending many hours trying to fix an electrical issue with the van that had caused the toilet flush to start working randomly, threatening to flood the van whilst we were out. It is an old van and getting increasingly eccentric. So the shadows were already long and whatever warmth there had been in the day was quickly receding by the time we set out.
The lanes of Somerset are a delight and corona-empty today. The road surface clean, the hedges tended, displays of daffodils and primroses, the wild garlic tossing in the wind. Even the hills are more gentle and although the Wahoo said the gradient was the same as a Cornish hill, it just didn't feel like it was. From the height of the bike you can see over the low hedges and drainage channels across flat fields to low hills on the horizon, all suffused with the long, low light of early evening.
This definitely had to be a short ride as I had forgotten lights and was watching the sun drop lower, knowing that it would disappear suddenly at this time of year, remembering too that today was the equinox and wondering vaguely if there was some form of ceremony or tradition I should follow on this day.
Through villages, quiet with cars parked up neatly on driveways, the odd person out still in their gardens. It did not feel like we were in wartime, the new front of the global pandemic. It felt like the roads of my childhood, empty and quiet, villages where people walked and talked.
The ride passed peacefully, the roads always compliant, with gentle views. I could cycle here forever. It is cycling heaven for the older and slower, with constant views, choices of back roads and hills that lean back and welcome you upon them. The wind was cold though, biting, finding the gaps in my clothing and Madame Crow was slower than I would have liked, shorn of her electron assisted steed and on the hybrid with its 40mm thick treaded tyres. I became impatient in the last few miles, leaving the bike in the big cog on hills and standing on the pedals to get some warmth or doubling back down the hill and doing it again. We had left the e-bike behind, worried about having a bike on the back rack that was worth as much as the van. I will not make that mistake again. I need more speed.
The next day was just as bright, a cool blue sky but with little heat in it and the wind howled around the van, whistling in the ventilators, rattling the trim. I had planned a route overnight on RidewithGPS and transferred it to the Wahoo. I don't often have success with such things but it all worked and it is a rare enough feat to be worthy of remark. Today we begin in the riverside town of Langport, earlier than yesterday but not early. We had stayed up until 2am and seen off three bottles of wine in a long, pointless and rambling discussion of the value of history. No conclusions were reached. I think now we should have listened to the news instead.
So it was not until 1pm that we left the car park by the River Parrett, a river I had crossed so often on trips up and down the M5, but until today had never seen up close. It is not a remarkable river but the road follows it closely, usually below it and we were very aware of how vulnerable these lands are to flooding. The river has been embanked so it can flow above the level of the shrinking peatland either side. The houses here seem warm; I think it is the red brick, something we do not see in Cornwall as bricks are too expensive to transport and we have granite in plenty. The sun was almost warm too, especially when we could get shelter from that east wind. The road rolled below the wheels quite happily, flat, gentle, welcoming. The fields are a vivid green today, responding to the growing light. We see a number of cyclists, usually alone, occasionally a family in a line, dad at the front and mum at the back, children pedalling furiously in-between. Very few cars.
As we get closer to Bridgewater the road departs and we are on a river path. Switch on the front suspension then. I wonder if I can call this gravel biking. As the river twists the wind comes from one side or another or sometimes from ahead but never from behind. Madame is slow in the headwinds and on the loose gravel of the riverside path and I find myself running ahead and then waiting, the wind cooling me, my thoughts wandering across the landscape.
Close to Bridgewater and the path is suddenly busy. Dogs and children and prams. Fishing boys and fishing men with long carbon rods. I hold my breath every time we pass someone, mind full of dark thoughts about aerosols and viruses. It is hard to maintain a six foot distance on a five foot wide path. Once into Bridgewater we decide there is no reason to stay. I am sure Bridgewater is lovely but we have a bad case of corona-panic and want to get back to the empty lanes and clean, cold winds of the countryside.
Some more river path and then lanes again, twisting and winding, never heading in one direction long, interspersed with short gentle hills or the more punishing flats, pollarded willows along drainage ditches that offer no shelter when the wind blows fiercely slowing us both. Villages are quiet, well kept, with people sitting enjoying the sun in their front gardens. They wave as we pass or shout greetings. I wonder if we have somehow wandered into a different universe, this one based on Enid Blyton. We are the 'Famous Five', cycling with a bag of ginger pop and looking for villains although three of us have to be imaginary.
It is too good to last and the last three miles are on an unavoidable A road, rising steeply uphill and now we have cars. Farewell Enid Blyton land and welcome back to diesel world. I sit behind Mdame as she grinds up the hill, impatient to pass but good mannered enough to know that she finds it soul destroying to be left behind and will not sit close enough behind me to get any benefit from wheel sucking. My attention is wandering and my front wheel collides with her rear. I twist the handlebars to avoid causing her to crash and land myself in the hedge instead. Madame tells me it was just desserts for getting too close and endangering her. She also lets me off the leash and I race the last mile and a half back to the van, setting the speed limit sign flashing as I pass.
When we get back I have a text from my son telling me I need to return "before the police block the A30 and turn you away". Maybe it is time to listen to the news and quickly I wish I had not. We are social pariahs, lockdown dodgers, gallivanting whilst the country enters into a crisis.
Back at the farm for another night we get a text message from the owner to say that we have to go. Everything is being closed down it seems. We can stay until the morning but then the gates will be locked. We had planned another ride before heading home but our actions seem increasingly self centred and foolish. We make an early start in the morning and head for the Tamar. Roads are quiet, pubs shuttered, in our imagination it feels as if our van with it's bright red toys tied on behind is being looked at with contempt and anger. We have become one of those people like hoarders and groups gathering outside cafes or the ones that steal hand gel from hospitals who are making this outbreak worse. The radio tells us each hour the worsening news, like a dark cloud spreading across the country, it never gets better. Our spirits are low. I try to absorb as much of the passing countryside as I can, remembering how it looks in the bright spring sunshine, England awaking after the winter, because I don't know when I will get to travel this way again.
I keep a logbook in the van and jot down where we go and what we do. The last entry says..."maybe the last trip of 2020."