29 November; To Hayle and back
Sometimes you have to do a ride because the title is compelling. Actually, I can't think of another example right now of a punning ride title but I guess it could become a forum thread. So for fans of John Wayne and 1960s films about WW2, I offer 'To Hayle and back', with complete acknowledgement that a bike ride is not the same as war in the Pacific. I saw a dozen people out cycling today so like me, they have been watching today's weather window, a quiet day, an island of calm between days of rain with gales.
Pulled outside by blue sky and with some nerves about the length of the ride, I weave in and out of Truro's morning traffic. I have never tried to ride 50 miles before, a sad acceptance of my lowly status as a beginner cyclist, but today will give it a go. The first hill is brutal, steeper than it looked and with cold legs and sagging confidence I am about to stop to get my breathing under control when I glance to the side and there is a lady cyclist overtaking me. An admission - I was shamed into continuing. Would I have felt the same about a male cyclist? I ponder this as my throat stings, my nose runs and the bike moves uncertainly upwards in little jerks as I plunge down on the pedals. I have only done two miles. How will I do 48 more?
On, on past the hospital where I contemplate that this is the place to have the heart attack that I feel is imminent, on past Truro College, strangely quiet...ah an INSET day. No, it is 'climate change' day. I am doing my bit! Out of Truro into the netherworld that is neither rural or urban that makes up much of central Cornwall. Stark reminders of mining, chimneys, old tracks across the heath that surrounds me, scattered whitewashed cottages, hunkered down into the damp earth, brambles and scrub invading the rough grazing.
I start to hate the down hills. Every time the road goes down I know it must go up again. The steeper the down, the steeper the up. There is no respite. Up, down, enclosed by tall banks and then occasionally a glimpse of the Atlantic away to my right. When I moved to Cornwall I was told that the Cornish are like the hedges that crowd and narrow every road. They look soft and green, grassy banks with wildflower displays in spring, deep shadowed oak groves in summer. But beware, for beneath that soft exterior is a granite wall, one that has probably been in place since the Bronze Age, since once built they are hard to remove. A Cornishman or woman is as hard as granite, as unmoving in the face of modernity or change, they only go where they want and when they want but they are charming, kind and friendly if you and they are of the same mind. These are the thoughts that run randomly into my mind, my legs in lactic hell, staying with the granite hedges, up, down.
Down into Portreath, the beach empty and cold, lifeguards long gone with the summer crowds, paint peeling on the sandwich huts and that was a mistake because the only way back out is incredibly steep but thankfully short. A little wobble as I try to find the right road, through Illogan, past modern bungalows sitting next to decaying mine workings, large detached properties and then a row of stone terraces crowding onto the road, pushing cars into the middle. There is a reward coming now. A final hill and then I can see the sea again, the sun is out and three things occur that have never happened to me before. I have six miles of relatively flat road, I overtake another cyclist and there is no wind. The cliffs are a 100 metres to my right, the road is empty, the views are limitless or at least limited only by the curvature of the earth.
All good things must end but please not yet. I can't decide whether to go faster as it is flat and easy or slower so it lasts longer. A long downhill to Gwithian beach, memories of surfing there with my children long ago, now they surf all around the world, St Ives winking in the distance, lit up by winter sun.
Hayle arrives. I have done it. I have done half of it. I follow the NCN signs that take me along a tree root disrupted narrow path and then a gravel track. Next time I will stay on the road. A cafe, tea and cake. Twenty five miles down in two hours with about 1800 feet of uphill so far.
On, on..no time to waste in these short winter days. Through Hayle, and then up and up, following a twisting road, the horizon never arriving, just another bend and more hill. Through Baripper, quiet and deserted, on to Camborne and quickly, steeply down to Redruth still following the blue trail of NCN signs that appear randomly and sometimes at junctions. There is a climb to come, long, steep, through terraced streets of Victorian stone cottages, paid for by mining and now green, mildewed and unrelentingly uphill. I need to stop, using the opportunity to swop from gloves to mitts as a reason to halt, but really to stop my breath sawing my throat, bring the heart rate down to something closer to 220 minus my age, consider the distance to A&E from here.
Out of Redruth and now I am on a belvedere, a thin strip of level tarmac, once a stone railway for the mines connecting the lodes and veins that run richly here, the mining heart of Cornwall. To my left I can see across the rooftops of Redruth to the blue Atlantic that runs straight from here to America, colours shifting as the sun moves between clouds. To my right is the bleak moorland of Carn Brea with it's distinctive memorial, an upright finger of granite blocks that dominates the skyline across the whole of mid Cornwall. Engine houses and chimneys, scruffy bits of rough grazing with ponies nibbling the yellowed grass, cottages that appear to be unconnected by road, sunk down into the ground, gradually subsiding into the earth from which they sprang. This is a unique landscape, but an uneasy one, marked by poverty, not a place to linger under the stares of groups of young men lingering in patches, hunched into hoodies, broken cars, tracks from scramble bikes cutting through the heather and scrubby trees.
Further from the town it feels safer, allowing a stop. A chance to eat something and drink.
On, on, spinning the pedals, legs complaining. forty miles down, ten to go. Without a GPS I rely on the map but it is old and doesn't show the NCN route. I get lost near St Day, missing the signs and then I am in United Downs, more urban than rural, scrap yards, fenced off compounds, a huge tip, dustbin lorries crowding me off the narrow lane. A fast down hill into the Bissoe Valley and I am on home territory. It is up through a quiet valley road, wet, overhung with oaks that still retain many of their leaves until Chacewater arrives and now it is easier, one more big hill and I am back into the Truro traffic.
I had a gel half an hour ago when I was flagging and suddenly there is a rush of energy. I am spinning downhill, faster and faster, competing with the traffic but safe in my bus/cycle lane and then a sweeping left hand turn and a quick right, braking too quickly, the back wheel spins and slides and I am down, scraping the tape off my handlebars, leaving gashes in the elbows of my jacket and bib tights. Yes it is greasy but I was going too fast. No real damage, I hope.
I go more slowly now, more aware of the greenness of the road, the steepness of the bends, corkscrewing down the steep cycle path and into the centre of Truro. One more hill and then home.
Madame Crow is out when I arrive, dirty, dishevelled so I ask Strava for some company: how far, how fast, how much uphill? I need to know. I need reassurance that I can still make progress, fighting the slowness of age and injury, not wanting to take the long downhill into old age. I text my son and share my day, "fifty miles, 3800 feet of uphill". He fails to understand why I need to do this, why don't I relax? In his life it is all struggle, make a living, pay the rent, finding time to surf before it is dark is hard for him now.
Instead, I am planning to go to Penzance next time, a longer trip perhaps 75 miles, chasing my vanishing youth, making a stand against time, consumed by a fever, a need to put down milestones of achievement that mean nothing - except to me.