I'm sure I'll eventually stop going on about Sunday's ride on the Isle of Wight but right now, the memory is as fresh as the sea air was on the day, heated by the brilliant warm sunshine that broke through the early morning mist shrouding the island first thing, hiding it from view from the mainland - disappointing from a photographic point of view, but it added to the anticipation.
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Leaving behind a tired but happy dog after her walk, I cycled to Lymington with
@Mattonsea, my guide for the day. We topped up our caffeine levels while waiting to board the ferry and then elbowed our way through the swarm of people on deck, all trying to get the best view with the sun in our faces. The adrenalin kicked in as we docked and by the time we'd collected our bikes, a little voice at the back of my head was asking what I'd let myself in for!
Matt had plotted an anticlockwise route to show off the southwestern corner of the island and since the first stop was The Needles, we headed over the Yar Bridge and then up and out of Yarmouth up a hill which was a bit of a shock to the system. However I had to laugh and relax once I'd reached the summit since the signpost did an excellent job of stating the bloomin obvious. We'd just crawled up Hill Lane, also home to Hill Farm according to the OS map on the Garmin. You don't say! The view of Tennyson Monument was magnificent and eased the aching legs as we made our way south to the Needles.
Once there, we rejected the notion of paying to enter the National Trust bit, which offers the closest view of this famous landmark and instead ventured up, up, up onto the headland for a slightly more distant but definitely less crowded vista. The climb was a bit of a [bleep] but the scenery proved that keeping our wallets closed had the extra benefit of experiencing this breathtaking view:
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With the legs and lungs recovered, we continued to climb up, up, up to the top:
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The headland is home to the
Old and New Batteries, Victorian and more modern defences, as well as a secret rocket testing site during the Cold War. Matt went into the bunker to explore while I stayed above ground, enjoying the sunshine and the views over the Solent to the headland. We then made our way to the viewing platform just below the Coastguard's hut/office/thing to see the Needles from the south.
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The touristy thing out of our systems, we followed the military road along the coast which offered plenty of time to enjoy the view and sunshine on the climbs and some wonderful descents to keep me grinning from ear to ear.
Looking back:
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My belly was rumbling like the waves which constantly beat upon the Island's shores and the last hill before lunch was consequently quite a challenge, despite having devoured two fruisli bars when we paused before the climb. Still, imagining the delights which might be on the menu kept me going but I was pathetically grateful when Matt pointed to the post office in Niton which also home to a superb cafe. To be honest, I'm not sure which was the most impressive: the quality of the food, the speed of the service, the tranquillity of the garden where we sat, the friendliness of the couple who run it ... or the look of incredulity on Matt's face when I said what I was having for lunch. I don't think there's anything wrong with a jacket potato with beans?
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Maybe it's a good thing I resisted the urge to go for the full English breakfast and to have cake for afters!
The PO/cafe was also home to a friendly dog who didn't understand why we ignored his pleading eyes and refused to share our grub. In retaliation, he refused to share his toys!
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Stuffed but content, we regretfully left this little haven and headed into the heart of the island. One thing I couldn't get over (or stop commenting on) was how swiftly and dramatically the landscape kept changing. Chalk cliffs, bleak and barren moorland, rich, warm farmland, rolling hills, bustling villages and quiet hamlets - we saw it all and so much more. Every corner revealed a new scene and if I'd stopped to take photos of every view which made me gasp, I'd still be there...
As it was, I kept thinking "I'm definitely coming back" long before we returned to Yarmouth and I'm as keen to explore the numerous footpaths with the dog as I am the other corners of the island on the bike.
We watched one ferry head back to the mainland just as we reached the edge of Yarmouth but I think we were both happy with that as it removed the need to rush and guaranteed us the time to enjoy something refreshing. We were initially thinking coffee but accidentally fell into the welcoming arms of an ice cream parlour just round the corner from the harbour and it just seemed like the perfect way to round off and celebrate an excellent ride.
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The only downside to the day was that I didn't wear my gilet for the return crossing and the early evening sea breeze sent my body into panic mode, one of the joys of Reynaud's. "Red alert, red alert! Cool air, hypothermia imminent! Engage emergency protocols, stop that blood from getting to the extremities..." Watching your fingers turn white and lifeless as your body overreacts is always entertaining though as I said to Matt, I'd rather this than hayfever. Still, I was glad when we retreated to the warmth below deck and made sure to retrieve the gilet from my saddlebag before we disembarked in Lymington.
Crossing the Solent at the end of the day - the Needles and Hurst Castle:
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Many, many thanks to
@Mattonsea for a fabulous day out and introducing me to the Isle of Wight. I will be back!
60 miles all told with 1095 meters of climbing.
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