Yet another creaking pedal post

[taximan]

My left pedal (non drive side) has developed an annoying creak when I push the pedal down. I checked the crank bolts for tightness without success. I fit a different pedal, still creaking. The bottom bracket has no play in it and runs freely. I am confident that the noise is not transmitted from the seat post or saddle area and I am at a loss what (if anything) to check next before I replace the bottom bracket. I would welcome any suggestions. One thing I have discovered over the last few days is that your never alone with a creaky pedal.

 

[ColinJ]

I have just been through all of this with my singlespeed bike. Noises on bikes often sound like they are coming from one place but really the source is elsewhere. I have been through almost all the possible causes.

It looks very likely that the problem is actually due to a very worn sprocket. I am about to confirm that by putting a spare slightly worn replacement on. (I pinch the sprockets from cassettes discarded from my best bike so they always have some wear when fitted, but not much.)

If you can, try riding no-hands to eliminate the bars and stem from the list of possible candidates.

 

[taximan]

I have just been out on a different bike with the offending pedal fitted, result, silence. It looks as if I will need to try a different BB

 

[Paulus]

Try riding up on the pedals to to eliminate the saddle and seat post.

 

[taximan]

Try riding up on the pedals to to eliminate the saddle and seat post.

Already done that 👍

 

[silva]

Already done that 👍

Buy a fixed then you can test riding up backwards too. This eliminates the trailing edges of the chainrings teeth and the leading edges of those of the rear cog.

Another test: ride handsfree. Eliminates handlebars, and also saddle since you don't push pull anymore and no reaction force exerted there.

 

[cyberknight]

i have found the threaded BB with cups square taper , HT2 etc putting grease on the inside of the non drive cup where the BB sits inside it can cure a creak of similar nature

 

[ColinJ]

i have found the threaded BB with cups square taper , HT2 etc putting grease on the inside of the non drive cup where the BB sits inside it can cure a creak of similar nature

I am STILL trying to track down the noise on my bike. I will give that one a go!

 

[taximan]

I am STILL trying to track down the noise on my bike. I will give that one a go!

Me Too

 

[ColinJ]

I've got a good feeling which might also be a bad feeling... Good, if what I just spotted turns out to be the answer. Bad, because it would confirm that I am indeed a fool!

Test ride to see if the hunt is over...

 

[The Fitter]

I had the same problem with a clicking noise when peddling under pressure. I tried changing the pedals, changing the saddle and seatpost and made sure that everything was tight, all to no avail. Last week i took the bottom bracket apart and cleaned and greased it, refitted it and all is well, no more noise's. Have been out for a couple of 40 mile rides and all is quite. Hopefully it should be ok now.

 

[hatler]

I've got a good feeling which might also be a bad feeling... Good, if what I just spotted turns out to be the answer. Bad, because it would confirm that I am indeed a fool!

Test ride to see if the hunt is over...

And .... ?

 

[ColinJ]

And .... ?

My problem actually turned out to be 2 problems!

I had checked for a saddle/seatpost problem by riding standing up. The noise persisted so I concluded that they were not to blame.

After a lot of trial, error, and thinking, I finally noticed that the bolt on the RH crank kept coming loose. I'd tighten it up and most of the noise would go away, only to return after a few minutes of riding. It finally dawned on me that the square taper hole in the crank probably wasn't square any more! I swapped in a spare crank and sure enough, the worst of the noise went away. I think I must have ridden the bike with the bolt too loose and the crank had come loose and started squirming about on the BB spindle, which rounded off the hole very slightly. After that it wouldn't stay tightened up for long.

But... even after fixing the crank problem, there was still something creaking in the background. This time, the noise DID go away when I stood up so there WAS a saddle/seatpost problem after all. I took the saddle off and discovered that one of the 2 rails was slightly loose where it was fixed into the rear of the saddle. I could twist the saddle in my hands and get it to creak! I had a spare matching saddle and put that on.

My bike is now lovely and quiet!

I will put the creaky saddle on the old bike on my turbo trainer. I always listen to loud music on the TT and that will drown out any creaking.

 

[GuyBoden]

My problem actually turned out to be 2 problems!

I had checked for a saddle/seatpost problem by riding standing up. The noise persisted so I concluded that they were not to blame.

After a lot of trial, error, and thinking, I finally noticed that the bolt on the RH crank kept coming loose. I'd tighten it up and most of the noise would go away, only to return after a few minutes of riding. It finally dawned on me that the square taper hole in the crank probably wasn't square any more! I swapped in a spare crank and sure enough, the worst of the noise went away. I think I must have ridden the bike with the bolt too loose and the crank had come loose and started squirming about on the BB spindle, which rounded off the hole very slightly. After that it wouldn't stay tightened up for long.

But... even after fixing the crank problem, there was still something creaking in the background. This time, the noise DID go away when I stood up so there WAS a saddle/seatpost problem after all. I took the saddle off and discovered that one of the 2 rails was slightly loose where it was fixed into the rear of the saddle. I could twist the saddle in my hands and get it to creak! I had a spare matching saddle and put that on.

My bike is now lovely and quiet!

I will put the creaky saddle on the old bike on my turbo trainer. I always listen to loud music on the TT and that will drown out any creaking.

Another thing, 35-50 N.m (310-443 in-lb) is recommended to tighten square taper Crank bolts, that's quite a bit of force, so I always use my big torque wrench. Thoroughly clean any grease off the axle first, that's also been a problem for me in the past.

https://www.tokenproducts.com/image....ISO_Square_Taper_BB.ISIS_Drive_BB_Manual.pdf

 

[ColinJ]

Another thing, 35-50 N.m (310-443 in-lb) is recommended to tighten square taper Crank bolts, that's quite a bit of force, so I always use my big torque wrench.

Yes, I read elsewhere that the bolts "need to be tighter than you would think"!

I've already posted this elsewhere, but anyway... I cracked a crank once and convinced myself that it was due to overtightening the bolt.

Since then I have probably been undertightening crank bolts!

I don't have a torque wrench. Perhaps I will treat myself to one when cash is not quite so tight...

Thoroughly clean any grease off the axle first, that's also been a problem for me in the past.

I have seen passionate arguments both ways on that subject! Even the manufacturers of the cranks can't seem to agree...