youngoldbloke said:
I think we are probably saying that you should work to increase your cadence and spin throughout the range of gears, not just at the top end. After all, there will be more push on the pedals if you are turning them faster than you are now.
When you say "push on the pedals", do you mean the Force exerted?
It is worth another mention that to acheive a desired power, force and therefore Newton-meters has a relationship with revs.
A cyclist can either pedal with a lot of force and not many revs and achieve the SAME power as a cyclist who exerts less force at higher revs.
To achieve a desired speed, because this is related to power, the rider can 'spin' with low pedal force ( the modern way ) OR can 'grind' with high pedal force ( the old school way ).
Sounds like the OP is not 'spinning', but grinding in highest gear and when he hits 22 ~ 23 mph, he runs out of oomph.
We have talked about 'natural cadence' a few times and agreed each individual has their own 'torque curve' of pedal force vs cadence.
No-one can tell you what style to ride, it's up to you to do some testing.
You will find your 'natural cadence' after you have had to take a rest stop, and warmed up after restarting again.
One thing more to add. Gearing does not enter the Velocity vs Power equation.
Bike manufacturers fit gearing that will encompass the average person's ability.
It seems strange that 35 years ago, a roadrace bike was sold with 53/39 and 13 - 23 5 block.
Now, people are crying because they've only got 50/34 and 11 - 27 10 cassette.