worn chainring?

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shadow master

Well-Known Member
Nigelnaturist said:
@shadow master try sourcing from a different place, or try looking up the specs.

http://spacycles.co.uk/products.php?plid=m2b0s109p2801 touring 110mm

http://spacycles.co.uk/products.php?plid=m2b0s109p2657 mtb touring 107mm


just a set of cranks ( I use these, with rings, my current setup on a 105 FD 26/38/50, and shifts superbly ) http://spacycles.co.uk/products.php?plid=m2b0s109p3051 103/107 for the double and 113mm for the triple.

I wouldn't buy anything with out first knowing sizes, if its not quoted don't use them.
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Sorry I have complety misunderstood what your saying,when you said quoted axle length I thought you ment actually stamped on the crank itself(what a great idea that would be),I thought I was learning something new for a minute!I understand information is available online for general cross checking axles required,I was thinking of it more from the point of view of a newbie buying a random crank probably used off of eBay lol
 
Nigelnaturist

Nigelnaturist

Guru
Location
Pontefract
shadow master said:
Sorry I have complety misunderstood what your saying,when you said quoted axle length I thought you ment actually stamped on the crank itself(what a great idea that would be),I thought I was learning something new for a minute!I understand information is available online for general cross checking axles required,I was thinking of it more from the point of view of a newbie buying a random crank probably used off of eBay lol
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Totally agree with that, most have the crank length stamped so why not the spindle size required :thumbsup:
 
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mister g

Member
Well I think I've got everything bought now (and didn't buy anything used off ebay either :laugh:). I received the Shimano UN55 bottom bracket (122mm) and the chain through the post today. Also realised the crankset I ordered (Shimano M171) was listed on other websites as needing 122mm axle (phew!!!), I.ve also ordered the Shimano HG41 cassette along with a lockring tool, bb tool, crank extractor (don't currently need it but thought I'd get one anyway!) and a tube of teflon grease. So just have to wait til they all come through then I can get busy, and all for a reasonable price too. BB £9, chain £7, crankset £19, cassette £7, lockring tool £2.50, bb tool & extractor £8 and grease £4 - a grand total of £56.50. Obviously not the best quality stuff but we all have to start somewhere :laugh:.
 
Nigelnaturist

Nigelnaturist

Guru
Location
Pontefract
@mister g I ran HG50 cassettes along with both Acera and Alevio RD's on my road bike, then went back to my old Sora till the 9sp shifter died (the old Sora was an RD3300 meant for 7/8sp), and now currently 105. I have had three chainsets from the original 52/40/30 to a 48/38/26 then back to the 50/42/30 but changed the middle ring to a 40th and currently on a 50/38/26 with a 12/13/14/15/16/17/19/21/24/27, I need a new cassette a 12-25 the gaps are too big from 21-24 and 24-27, and since I have a low 26 inner 25 on the large rear is fine.
 
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shadow master

Well-Known Member
It would be really useful for used cranks or cranks that are a bit out of date/vintage.
mister g said:
Well I think I've got everything bought now (and didn't buy anything used off ebay either :laugh:). I received the Shimano UN55 bottom bracket (122mm) and the chain through the post today. Also realised the crankset I ordered (Shimano M171) was listed on other websites as needing 122mm axle (phew!!!), I.ve also ordered the Shimano HG41 cassette along with a lockring tool, bb tool, crank extractor (don't currently need it but thought I'd get one anyway!) and a tube of teflon grease. So just have to wait til they all come through then I can get busy, and all for a reasonable price too. BB £9, chain £7, crankset £19, cassette £7, lockring tool £2.50, bb tool & extractor £8 and grease £4 - a grand total of £56.50. Obviously not the best quality stuff but we all have to start somewhere :laugh:.
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mister g said:
Well I think I've got everything bought now (and didn't buy anything used off ebay either :laugh:). I received the Shimano UN55 bottom bracket (122mm) and the chain through the post today. Also realised the crankset I ordered (Shimano M171) was listed on other websites as needing 122mm axle (phew!!!), I.ve also ordered the Shimano HG41 cassette along with a lockring tool, bb tool, crank extractor (don't currently need it but thought I'd get one anyway!) and a tube of teflon grease. So just have to wait til they all come through then I can get busy, and all for a reasonable price too. BB £9, chain £7, crankset £19, cassette £7, lockring tool £2.50, bb tool & extractor £8 and grease £4 - a grand total of £56.50. Obviously not the best quality stuff but we all have to start somewhere :laugh:.
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What about a chain whip to hold the cassette?
 
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shadow master

Well-Known Member
mister g said:
I think I have one of those in one of the toolboxes that were my dads. If not, could I improvise with a section of the chain I'm replacing along with a pair of mole grips?
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Yeah hope its not too tight.....have seen people jam a screwdriver in the back!not advisable pulls against the spokes.....£56.50 not bad including the tools,glad we have a great local shop here they would supply and fit for that price!
 
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mister g

Member
A bit more advice on this if possible? I've received the new cassette and lockring tool so thought I'd change the cassette over. Once I'd removed the old one I thought I may as well grease the hub bearings whilst I was there. I removed the locknut from the axle and the cone nut duly came undone no problem. Cleaned the bearings and regreased and came to put everything back together. The problem I'm now having is that I can adjust the cone nut so the wheel runs freely but as soon as I put the locknut and washer back on, it also tightens the cone nut some more so I end up too tight. I notice that the cone nut has flats on it which need to be held as you tighten the locknut BUT the cone nut sits inside the freehub so it's not possible to get anything onto the flats. Is there a special wrench for this? As in one that has an offset along with quite a small head to fit within the inner diameter of the freehub?
 
raleighnut

raleighnut

Legendary Member
Location
One of the 'Elite'
Yep on the non-drive side.
Lock together the drive side cone and lock nut (in the correct position), insert the axle through the hub then fit the non-drive side cone and locknut and adjust THAT SIDE until the wheel spins without play or tightness.
 
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mister g

Member
OK thanks, I'll give that a try. The only reason I'm approaching from this side is the "nut" on the drive side seems to be locked in place so I'll have to get this freed up. I left it there so one side was in it's orignal position. The reason I say "nut" is that it looks like its just one piece, a bit longer than the drive side. Let me see if I can get an image to show what I mean, it might make more sense!
 
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