Woody's Highland Adventure 2024

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chriswoody

Legendary Member
Location
Northern Germany
I've been involved in Outdoor Education pretty much all my working life as well as spending my free time outside. When I lived in the UK I spent many years traveling to Scotland for adventures, from Sea Kayaking to Winter Mountaineering. It's been over ten years now since my last visit and given the enormous expense and hassle of visiting, I decided if I was going back, it was going to be for a really big trip. For a long time now I've had my eyes on the Highland Trail 550, which traverses 550 miles of some of the remotest and challenging Highland terrain. The route was originally conceived by Alan Goldsmith and each May a group of intrepid souls gather in the town of Tyndrum to race the route. The current fastest time is 3 days and 5 hours an eye wateringly fast time. The route itself is not exactly easy, there is a lot of hike a bike, river crossings and other hazards, just completing the route is a massive achievement in itself. I knew for myself that it was probably a goal too far, but I wanted to just go and ride and see what happend, making things up as I went along.

Day One. 19th July 2024. 73,6 kilometers 1,345 metres ascent.

We roll out of Tyndrum early and onto the West Highland way, anxiety for what lies ahead sits heavy in my stomach. The weather is a typical highland drizzle and the rocks are greasy and slippery. It doesn't take long for me to start settling in though and before long the smell of the wet heather and the sheep bring back old memories and I start to feel at home in this vast landscape. Within an hour I have my first river crossing to contend with, not too deep, but enough to get my shoes wet. We've left the West Highland Way and our now heading East towards Glen Lyon.




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The gravel road starts to contour the hillside and along the north shore of the Loch before pitching down onto a road and the Loch head. The road is quiet but I'm puzzled by the odd reaction of the first car I meet, It's only a short while later upon meeting the second car that I realise the issue, I'm on the wrong side of the road!! Stupid of me I really should have been more attentive, luckily it's a slow narrow road so no harm done but a salient lesson to pay more attention. I stop in the Glen Lyon tearooms for a lovely cup of coffee and some food, an aspect of cycling I really miss in Germany. After a lovely chat with some other cyclists it's back to the grind and I'm soon off-road again and back to a steep climb before dropping down to Loch Rannoch.

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Smooth tarmac then brings me round to the last climb up to Loch Ericht, the views are truly stunning and the sun has popped out to say hello. The last two kilometres of the day are the hike a bike through the notorious Ben Alder bog, made even more miserable by the constant Cleg attacks, finally though we reach our overnight stop at Ben Alder Cottage and settle in for the night.

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Day Two. 20th July 2024. 76 km 1460m ascent

Day two starts with the long push out of Ben Alder bay, occasionally I try to ride, but a combination of the steep rough terrain and the wide water bars all but make it impossible. It takes a while until finally we reach the bealach behind Ben Alder but the relief is short lived and the ride down is steep, technical and impeded once more by wide water bars that are too wide to ride safely, after three hours I'd still barely travelled 15 km.

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The scenery is spectacular though and it's so wild and remote here, not a soul to be seen and the sun is shining it's a lovely warm day. After a period of deep bog stomping and bike hauling it's with great relief when i reach the firm gravel access road of a hydro scheme. I roll down the track and into the valley below, stopping for coffee and cake at the Wolftrax cafe. Setting off a few kilometres of road riding brings me to the last climb of the day the rough and demanding ascent of the Corrieyairack pass which at 778 metres high represents the highest point of the whole ride.


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After a relentless hard climb a stunning 15 km descent awaits, a fun and demanding highlight of the ride all the way down to Fort Augustus at 25 metres. I celebrate with a Pizza as the heavens open up and I decide to bin my idea of wild camping and instead head to a campsite on the shore of Loch Ness.

Day Three. 21st July 2024. 78km 1360m ascent.

In what seems to be a developing pattern, the day started with a steep climb that went on for several kilometers then as the gradient relented the hard work began.

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The trail peters out around the shores of Loch ma Stac and I'm reduced to hauling the bike and picking my way through the large rocks and stones that litter the Loch shore. Then after several kilometers of hard work it's on to the bog of despair, again like yesterday several hours of hard work left me only 15 kilometres into the day. The views as always though are impressive and along with the solitude leaves me in a peaceful and happy place.

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After finally putting the bog behind me we reach a solid track and the downhill begins, reaching the valley floor we're back on tarmac for a while and the busy road soon disappears behind as I turn off onto a single track road down an isolated valley. After lunch by the river it's upwards and onto the path of a thousand puddles. Now I'd naively assumed at the planning stage that this path would literally be just that, puddles, oh no how wrong was I! many resembled small Lochans, there bottoms a quagmire that would swallow any wheels that were foolhardy to try and yes a thousand puddles is not much of an exaggeration.

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There was no flow at all, constantly stopping to push and haul the bike through. Finally after many kilometres the path becomes more solid again and the speed picks up but it's a grind, the scenery is dull and the trail conspires to suck the life out of the ride. The final road kilometers roll slowly by and it's with relief as i reach Contin. I'd just missed the shop and decided to stay in the towns odd little campsite so I could re supply in the morning.
 
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chriswoody

chriswoody

Legendary Member
Location
Northern Germany
Day Four. 22nd July 2024. 68 kilometers 948 metres ascent.

After stocking up in Contin stores it's a real pleasant start to the day, a nice rolling ride through the woods which finishes over a delightful river gorge. A long section of road riding follows and it feels good to be having tarmac under the wheels.
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After a number of kilometres we turn away from the road and into the hills, a sublime trail that rises and falls, the sun is beating down and all's good with the world. The views are spellbinding and I ride along in no particular rush.

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I stop next to a burn and enjoy some lunch contemplating everything and the way ahead. The Highland trail comprises three loops, each stacked on top of each other, you ride the Eastern side of all three loops before, at the most Northerly point, swinging round and completing each loop as you ride South. I was currently heading to the top of the middle loop and decision time, do I continue to head North or miss out the Northern loop completely and instead swing round and just complete the lower two loops?

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I decided to make the decision later as I carried on on these lovely trails. Soon I was heading down into a valley that seemingly had no end and the wonderful views of earlier were no more. I was tired and my legs feeling like lead, one last climb soon degenerated into bog stomping, progress slowed to a grind as we hauled and dragged the bike through this seemingly endless bog. With a palatable sigh of relief we finally hit a firm path and with it decision time. Turn right and head up onto the Northern loop or turn left and start to close the middle loop. I'd always known though that my strength was probably not up to the whole trail and the sensible decision was to miss the Northern loop. I wasn't sad though, I'd had an amazing ride and wanted to continue to do so. It was relief that I turned left and headed down to the Schoolhouse bothy for the night.


Day Five. 23rd July 2024. 76 kilometers 1048 metres ascent.

Despite being in a bothy the midge had been terrible last night, along with a party of rude and unsociable American ladies in the other room. It was with relief that I set of into the sunshine towards Ullapool. The ride starts on a lovely gravel road before a steep climb when it changes to narrow single track prescribing a precarious route along the rim of a river valley.
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Soon though we're back to bog stomping and a frustrating hour of hike a bike as we drag it through the deep pools. At Loch an Daimh we finally hit the gravel road and it's fast and flowing for several kilometers now. Then with 2km to go until Ullapool I make the fatal mistake of following the route as it takes a shortcut over a small hill. The route is slow rough and terribly overgrown, I was really frazzled when I finally hit Ullapool. Sitting on the seafront eating fresh Pizza from the Pizza van set the world to rights again.

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I need to make a decision, I'm tired and riding slowly, I really need a break from the relentlessness of this route. The official trail breaks off soon and heads into Fisherfield for some of the toughest and demanding sections of the route. Lots of steep technical track and hike a bike. Was I really physically up for it and did I really want the suffering? So consulting the map an alternative lay before me to take the coast road and meet the route again after Fisherfield. Not only would this be gentler, but I would see the sea, something I dearly wanted to do. So with my mind made up we plotted a route along the coast road and set off. The road climbs steeply but easily over the hills and the views are pleasant, later that afternoon I arrive at a basic but pleasant campsite on the shores of Little Loch Bloom and set up camp.

Day Six. 24th July 2024. 70.8 kilometers 967 metres ascent.

Today was a gentler kind of day, I planned to stay on the road all day and follow the coast around to Kinlochewe. The road is like a roller coaster up and down, it feels like Devon where I grew up and I still manage to rack up over 900m of ascent today.

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The road is part of the NC500 driving route and the downside to coming this way are all of the campervans and tourists. There are numerous close passes and it's not as pleasant as I'd like.

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I can certainly see why it's popular though, the views are stunning and I take lots of time to appreciate it.

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In Poolewe I stop at a small van that's selling coffee and cake, the problem is there is too much choice it's all home made and it's a challenge to choose I could easily have eaten all of it. After a long relaxing day I roll into Kinlochewe and my original plan had been to continue through and up to the tea house bothy. Something stopped me though and instead I decided to pitch up in the campsite and I'm really glad I did because unbeknown to me, things were about to go very wrong.
 
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chriswoody

chriswoody

Legendary Member
Location
Northern Germany
Day Seven. 25th July 2024. 0 kilometers 0 metres ascent.

I ended up spending half the night in the toilet block, I'm really not well and decide to make the decision to stay in the campsite for the day. I'm not sure if it's dirty water or dirty water bottles, but somethings upset me and I'm in no fit state to ride. It's a little frustrating I've never been Ill before from these trips. I spend a boring day in a cramped tent reading and feeling sore.

Day Eight. 26th July 2024. 62 kilometers 1040 metres ascent.

So I'm definitely no where near 100% but I need to set off, I really can't hang around here. I'm mentally and physically drained, I've eaten 1 banana in the last 24 hours but there's no other way back to Tyndrum other than cycling. Looking at the map from here continuing to follow the HT550 is really the best choice, so off I go and to compound my misery the weather has turned. It's a grim morning and I hide in my hood and just grind out the first kilometres.
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I've turned away from the road now and the trail brings me up past the teahouse bothy and from here it's a relentless awkward hike a bike to the summit of the Bealach.

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Even the downhill is hike a bike, it's far too technical for my skill level and we make our way slowly downhill. Then once we reach the road it's a dull grind into a relentless headwind, all the way down to Strathcarron before diving back off into one of the famous HT550 Shortcuts, up and over the hill.

The trail isn't too difficult at first and despite being low on energy I steadily plod my way up. Slowly the trail gives way to boggy single track, it's still rideable as we crest the top and at first it's fun if a little slow. Then it turns seriously boggy and I have a major sense of humour failure as I spend over an hour hauling and dragging the bike over rocks and through endless bog towards an objective that never seems to draw nearer. At last though I hit the road at Killin and we work our way through the delightful sea lochs and past the tourist hell of Eilean Donan castle. As we near the top of the glen the route elects to head into the hills again for another notorious section of hiking and hauling. I decide though I'm too ill and weak to manage that and carry along the road for another couple of kilometres to the campsite in Glen Shiel.

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Day Nine. 27th July 2024. 65.4 kilometers 752 metres ascent.

With my stomach bug still lingering I just need to get to the end now. I've hardly eaten in the last days and yet the route has been physically tough, my body desperately needs a rest. I decided to follow the road through Glen Shiel then up over the pass and into the Great Glen to pick up the HT550 again and onwards to Fort William. following popular tourist roads in the highlands during peak season is not fun, it really isn't. Lots of close passes and fast impatient drivers. To make up for it though the scenery is lovely. At first I rise up through Glen Shiel with the five sisters towering above me on the left hand side. As we reach Loch Cluanie the valley opens out and I stop at the cafe opposite the Cluanie inn, ignoring my protesting stomach I have second breakfast surrounded by beautiful hills.
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The ride onwards takes me along the Loch shore and then over the pass and down to Glen Garry. It's with relief when I finally turn from the road and onto the Great Glen way.

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Heading South West now on the shore of Loch Lochy is wonderful, it's fairly flat and easy going the views as always are stunning. I come across a moored boat that's actually a cafe. Ignoring my churning stomach I order some food and a pint of beer. This really is no way to look after myself, but I'm beyond caring I need energy somehow. The sunshine is lovely and it's great to just rest and enjoy watching life go by. Setting off, my destination is an authorised bivvy spot halfway down the shore of Loch Lochy for cyclists, walkers and canoists. It feels a long haul but the path is firm and easy going, though a short diversion uphill is unwelcome. After a while I see a carved statue of a bear on the trail side and realise I've reached my destination. A steeply wooded hillside leads down to the loch shore and at various intervals there are tent platforms carved into the slope. There's also a composting toilet and shelter further down, a really pleasant place to spend a night. I set up tent and then sit on the loch shore for a while contemplating the imminent end of my trip.

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Day Ten. 28th July 2024. 30 kilometers 225 metres ascent.

I pack away slowly and set off towards Fort William, the last day of my ride. I'm absolutely worn out and still desperately unwell. The weather is kind though and the trail winds along easily enough. For the first kilometres it's along the Great Glen way on easy gravel trails which prove a pleasure to ride. At the head of Loch Lochy I come across an old sailing boat waiting to cross the lock gates, it's crew chatting and relaxing to a small crowd of onlookers as this lovely old boat is the centre of much attention.



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Later the path turns to tarmac and the Nevis range of mountains comes into view, my destination is getting much closer now.

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I'm soon passing Neptune's staircase, the impressive series of locks bringing boats up from the sea into the Great Glen. Then onwards into Fort William itself.

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I'm finally at the end. Technically this is the end of the middle loop of the HT550 and from here a day and a halfs riding will take you over Rannoch Moor and back to Tyndrum. I'm much to weak for that though, my stomach bug along with the general effort involved has completely depleted me, there is nothing left in the tank. From Fort William there is a train that runs over Rannoch moor and back to Tyndrum and I'm booked onto it. Despite the state of my stomach I pop into the chippy and buy a celebratory portion of fish and chips and spend a few enjoyable hours in the sun sat on the grass in the middle of town.

I always knew this would be tough, but I'd not banked on getting ill as well. All in all though I'm super happy it's been a great trip seeing loads of new places as well as old haunts. I'm really pleased with what I've achieved, I really don't know if I'll ever be back for another Scottish adventure, but if not, this was a memorable one to finish on.

Overall on this trip I covered 597.4 km and 9068 metres of climbing, I dread to think how many kilometres of this was walking. The bike as always was wonderful, perfectly fine for this trip. I had no mechanicals and no punctures at all, though I am running tubeless. Kit wise everything performed brilliantly and the only thing I could think to change was to not pack so much food, there were more re-supply/cafe options than I'd realised.
 
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chriswoody

chriswoody

Legendary Member
Location
Northern Germany
Thanks @Pat "5mph" for the kind words.

I actually rode solo as I always do, I don't know anybody daft enough to also try it with me. I occasionally use the word "we" in the report, without really noticing. I'm probably just referring to me and the bike!

The other bike in the picture from the Schoolhouse bothy was just another guy who happened to stay there that night to.
 

bluenotebob

Veteran
Location
France
That's another great write-up from you @chriswoody - and some stunning photos.

I don't envy you the clegs or the midges (and certainly not your illness) but otherwise that must have been a fabulous bike trip.

I'm going to pass the link on to my Edinburgh-based nephew who's a keen mountain biker - and who may well have done some/all of the route in the last 10 years or so.

I'm curious about the 'northern loop' - would that have taken you into Sutherland/Caithness? Is there a website somewhere with the info?
 
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chriswoody

chriswoody

Legendary Member
Location
Northern Germany
Thanks @bluenotebob it was a really memorable trip.

Your right I should have popped some maps in. The Northern loop doesn't go as far North East as Caithness, but it does goes through Sutherland. It goes north on reasonable tracks until a really tough off road section looping to the North of Creagan Meall Horn. Then it goes along the coast past Dornie before back off-road along the Ledmore traverse under Suilven mountain. It's tough and demanding but really spectacular.

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The whole of the HT550 looks like this where you can quite clearly see the three loops:

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A full description of the route and clearer maps can be seen here:

https://bikepacking.com/routes/highland-trail-550/
 

bluenotebob

Veteran
Location
France
Hey Chris

Thanks for the maps! Yes, they’ve give a bit more context to your trip.

I’m particularly struck by the northern loop which goes NW up Glen Cassley and to the east of Ben More Assynt. That’s seriously wild land! I climbed Ben More Assynt (via Conival) about 40 years ago – but starting from the south (most “normal” people go up from the west – from the Inchnadamph Hotel .. but we were young(ish) and didn’t care). Without question, one of the highlights of my life.

John Hillaby famously got lost in the area east of Ben More Assynt – he wrote about it in “Journey Through Britain”. I’m amazed that it’s passable on an MTB.

The words “Highlands” and “memorable” fit together very neatly in a sentence.

Your route along the southern and central parts of the HT500 was equally breath-taking and will have given you memories to treasure for the rest of your life.

A great achievement – arguably even more so because you were fighting illness for a large part of it. Well done!
 
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