Will this rear wheel fit on my bike?

[notmyrealnamebutclose]

Thanks alicat, unfortunately nearest indy bike shop is in another town and he keeps strange hours,
talking to local people his shop is rarely open.
Do you know if it's possible to put a new wheel on that has more or even less gears, cogs, than on on
my bike? As I'm sure my bike has 7 gears and this one has 6. Thing is, it is pretty flat where I live so am
not really concerned about low gears, mines a triple but I never need the bottom chainset gear, rarely the
middle c/s gear apart from some occasional steep slopes here and there.

 

[Ajax Bay]

Darius, old chap, the OP's considering buying a wheel of t'net. How can he "just try it"? There are a set of criteria that will determine whether the wheel is fit for purpose.
OP: You need to determine the distance between the rear dropouts (OLN) which will probably be 130mm, but maybe 135mm. Don't give us the 'roughly' bit: measure it accurately - not difficult. A wheel you buy must have that OLN. You have rim brakes so the rim of the wheel you procure must have a rim for rim brakes. You need to find out what the make/model of rim is. And if the seller can't tell you: move on. From the new wheel's image (6 sprockets) it's likely it will be a freewheel, not a freehub. So I assume your drivetrain is 6 speed. Edit: you have (only now) posted that your hybrid's 7 speed, so this wheel will NOT suit you.
Frankly I would stop wasting your time on this disc-hubbed wheel: get a wheel which meets your needs (as outlined above).

 

[mythste]

Ok. I'll be nice.
Yes it will fit, but OP might have to remove the stabilizers first.

Two inaccuracies that it would be really unfriendly of me not to point out;

Firstly, (Unless you're from the USA, in which case, take my unreserved apologies!) "Stabilizers" isn't the correct term. We're good with "StabiliSers" in the queens.

Secondly, I see no reference to any additional components from the OP, but even if they did need stabiliSation aids, an axle extender might help, but in most cases you can probably use your existing skewer.

10 out of 10 for effort though champ.

 

[nickyboy]

learn by your mistakes, not by asking half baked questions.

No you don't. Asking questions avoids mistakes. You may prefer to get stuff wrong and "learn the hard way" but that's madness.
Masochism ain't my thing

 

[notmyrealnamebutclose]

At the risk of further enraging anyone else, why is it not ok to replace the wheel with a 6 or 8
speed wheel as this would broaden my options on replacing the wheel. Is there no way you could
set up the limiter on the derailleur to stop at 6?

Existing freewheel is a 7 spd with a 135mm shimano hub. Than you.

 

[Ajax Bay]

First of all, your questions should not 'enrage' anyone who's got out of bed on the right side in the morning.
It's worth you understanding whether you have a freewheel-and-block or a freehub-and-cassette (I'm not going back up this thread to check). If you get the same as you've got now, you'll be able to swap the block/cassette over.
The 7sp shifters and RD combo shift the cage (and therefore chain) across a specific distance each click. This distance is matched to distance between adjacent 7sp sprockets. 6 and 8sp sprocket spacing intervals are different. A 7sp cassette (maybe like the one you have now) will not fit on an 8sp freehubbed wheel (the cassette width is different).
Edited: With your 7sp shifters you might 'get away' with an 8sp cssette on an 8sp freehubbed wheel, losing either the largest or the smallest sprocket (limit screw) and getting alignment just right on the central sprocket (of 7 usable) . A 7sp block will screw onto any freewheel: a wheel advertised as '6sp' cannot be freehub so, if you have a 7sp block, it will screw on.
But a 135mm OLN hub is likely to have a freehub. Here are a couple of links to increase your understanding.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/k7.html
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/k7-7.shtml

 

[notmyrealnamebutclose]

Sorry for late reply. Yes thanks AB, I see what you are saying and I'll avoid 6sp. It's a screw on fw btw. Another
thing Is I'm wanting to advance from a 14 tooth and try a 12 tooth bottom spkt for more speed, I might regret
it lol but with a tail wind the sky's the limit eh! Just have to see what turns up.

I've really bricked the r/wheel up today trying to true it up. Catching both brake shoes badly, was getting
dark and needed to nip out so ended up taking both shoes off to make it rideable. Hopefully sort it out
tomoz if I get time! Thanks for the SB links btw, a fantastic resource. Was saddened to see he's no longer
with us.

Another quick question. If I ended up buying a r/wheel with a QR skewer, can you remove the skewer and just
bolt the axle down so no one can easily nick the wheel? Or would that weaken the axle removing it. Or maybe
there's another way. Sorry if this sounds daft but I've no idea.

 

[Ajax Bay]

a r/wheel with a QR skewer, can you remove the skewer and just bolt the axle down so no one can easily nick the wheel?

No. The QR axle is only long enough to engage in the dropouts - so for a 135 OLN frame it's 143mm long.
There are 'security' QR skewers which require more than just a hand to release them which may offer you the security you think you need.

 

[notmyrealnamebutclose]

Hello, me again I've hit another snag and looking for some more help please.

Whilst replacinga broken spoke today I noticed the rear hub isn't anywhere near perfectly central so whilst having the wheel off I thought I'd try to line it up so the wheel is dead centre. Nope, stripped down the freewheel block side of the axle ok but couldn't undo the 17mm lock nut the other side of the axle.

The locknut and cone seem to be a one piece but am not sure, can't understand why It would be so tightly bolted up. I threaded 2 bolts on the axle, the other side to lock the axle but it just won't budge. What the hell is going on? The only thing I can think of, is try threading 3 bolts on the other side to lock the axle as using 2 doesn't hold it, axle just turns. It's an unbranded hub but assume it's a shimano like the rest of the drive train parts. Tried googling a pic of a similar hub set up but can't find one, took a pic of it on my phone but having issues with phone atm, sorry.

 

[Ajax Bay]

I noticed the rear hub isn't anywhere near perfectly central . . .
The locknut and cone seem to be a one piece

1) Remember that it's not the hub that needs to be central, it's the centre line of the rim, once in the frame, and axle nuts tightened.
2) If they were one piece they would not be, iyswim.
Reassemble the hub (bearings in and greased up, and put the right side cone/locknut back on), reinstall the wheel in the drop outs and screw up the right hand nut (only). That should lock the axle in place enough to allow you to exert enough unscrewing torque on the left hand locknut.