might try that with a long bar on the pipe wrench.....
Yeah, don't apply constant pressure though. Bounce it, if you get what I mean. Have it on a flat bench with the seat post hanging over the edge. Warm it up with a hairdryer first.
might try that with a long bar on the pipe wrench.....
I did wonder.... I sell tools and thought I must look into to what they are......Sorry I meant impact wrench not torque wrench! On another planet.
its an all too common problem in olde MTBs. The Retrobikes boys use the technique a lot.I had thought of caustic sode in through the bottom bracket then leaving it upside down....
The point of heating isn't to expand the seat tube more than the post, but to drive off the water that makes up a significant part of the bulk of the white aluminium oxide that's jamming things up. Heat to > 100 deg, keep it there for a good while, then run plusgas in as it cools and try force again.A hair dryer won't make any difference. By the time you've raised the temperature of the seat tube, the seatpost will also have heated up and in any case the expansion differential won't be enough. The problem is the oxidation, oxides take up more space than metals so have expanded and filled the gap between tube and post.
Caustic soda will definitely work, but is dangerous stuff, so wear all the protective gear (incl goggles)
Much better to add the Caustic Soda granules to water though, than add water to Caustic Soda granules^^
And just adding the granules to water is very exothermic and liable to burst glass containers if you mix too much at once. It's pretty nasty stuff to be slopping about in quantity tbh, the frame would have to be worth a few $$$ to be worth the hassle of using it and clearing up the mess.