Which mudguards??

[Cycleops]

a pic of my Surly showing part of the Velo Orange full stainless steel mudguards and matching Kleen Kanteen stainless steel waterbottles

Bit of a SS fetish thing going on here.

 

[HLaB]

On my commuter I'm running SKS P35's (can't remember if they are blumels or chomoplastics) on the good bike I used to run them too but found them too brittle to cope with the stresses and strains of fast group riding and I'd inevitably leave them on too long and they'd brake. So the last few years I've been running SKS race blades long on the good bike. The first set of them were good but let down by their mounting points SKS have strengthened them and touch wood they've lasted the last few winters well.

'Touch wood' didn't work 300 miles in a week on the Scottish roads resulted in the rear being lost, retrieved it about 4 times but it kept on coming loose on a fast group ride and eventually I lost it. I might see if I can get a replacement for this winter but I'll be trying a different brand either now or next year; SKS guards cannot cope with fast road group rides

 

[HLaB]

What aspects of fast road group rides do you feel to be the issue?

They can't take long descents (say 3-4miles long) at 30mph average that seems to have started off all my problems with them They seem OK with lots of short descents down here but with just a few longer descents up north they fail

 

[freiston]

I believe the Dolomite 6 has disc brakes (https://www.evanscycles.com/pinnacle-dolomite-6-2016-road-bike-EV244122) - maybe someone with familiarity of disc brakes can offer something regards fitting mudguards? I take it that it might not be as straight-forward as with rim brakes.

 

[freiston]

They can't take long descents (say 3-4miles long) at 30mph average that seems to have started off all my problems with them They seem OK with lots of short descents down here but with just a few longer descents up north they fail

I don't understand this at all.

 

[HLaB]

I don't understand this at all.

I guess that a on a long fast descent they are subject to more force for a longer time and that's too much for them

 

[Milzy]

I guess that a on a long fast descent they are subject to more force for a longer time and that's too much for them

They get the flutter effect just like in the aviation world.

 

[Dark46]

I've just ordered a set of SKS raceblades

 

[GuyBoden]

I've mentioned it before in other threads, but these 42mm SKS Bluemels are excellent for the low price of £12.99 at Decathlon.
http://www.decathlon.co.uk/bluemels-road-bike-mudguard-set-42mm-id_8356334.html

 

[Milzy]

I've mentioned it before in other threads, but these 42mm SKS Bluemels are excellent for the low price of £12.99 at Decathlon.
http://www.decathlon.co.uk/bluemels-road-bike-mudguard-set-42mm-id_8356334.html

View attachment 292767

42 mm though, seems too big.

 

[andrew_s]

my current ones don't quite keep my feet dry

If you want dry feet, you need to fit a proper front mudflap, down to about 4 cm from the ground.

The rear mudflap keeps the rider behind dry, to do which it needs to be about the length shown.

As for these mudguards that can't take a 3 mile/30 mph descent, I can only assume they have been badly fitted.
My SKS chromoplastics generally last until the bridge bits next to the stay ends break after 5 or 6 years, and 15 to 20 miles coming off an Alp, or 25 miles off the Veleta is no problem (different bike to that shown).

 

[HLaB]

If you want dry feet, you need to fit a proper front mudflap, down to about 4 cm of the ground.
View attachment 302505
The rear mudflap keeps the rider behind dry.

As for these mudguards that can't take a 3 mile/30 mph descent, I can only assume they have been badly fitted.
My SKS chromoplastics generally last until the bridge bits next to the stay ends break after 5 or 6 years, and 15 to 20 miles coming off an Alp, or 25 miles off the Veleta is no problem (different bike to that shown).

I've tried a few bike shops they can't all be bad mechanics. I've also tried fitting them my self and cutting the stays down and the last few years tried sks race blades longs I and II (at least with II I've got 2 winters) I don't think its been down to fitting; maybe I don't have enough weight/ tyre width to absorb the bumps enough. I'm a bit sick of SKS giving the amount of times/ things I've tried and annoyed at my stupidity to persist based on their German customer service contacts which is great (the UK ones are terrible).

 

[HLaB]

I've tried a few bike shops they can't all be bad mechanics. I've also tried fitting them my self and cutting the stays down and the last few years tried sks race blades longs I and II (at least with II I've got 2 winters) I don't think its been down to fitting; maybe I don't have enough weight/ tyre width to absorb the bumps enough. I'm a bit sick of SKS giving the amount of times/ things I've tried and annoyed at my stupidity to persist based on their German customer service contacts which is great (the UK ones are terrible).

Oh well it looks like I'll stay with SKS, this winter at least, I contacted them direct in Germany and they'll replace the rear guards. I'm maybe going to try a different brand next year that'll hopefully cope with my style of descending/lack of damping but for now this is most cost effective!

 

[Dark46]

Mine arrived yesterday

 

[Ian H]

I've got a pair of pre-production 'Widget' full reflectives on the fixed. ABS plastic and pretty robust.

I've just fitted a pair of Portland Design Works alloy guards to the Omega. Very rigid. I'm not totally convinced by the tiny grub-screw stay adjustment, because it's yet another tool (tiny hex wrench). I didn't use their bridge and crown brackets as the frame is drilled for mudguards, but had to drill holes in the guards for the bolts. Very neat job.