Wheels vs Roads?

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Melonfish

Evil Genius in training.
Location
Warrington, UK
I regularly take my hybrid (twice a day) over a mile stretch of dirt road that is i think where pot holes go to die...
i'm running 700 X 35C and i've not had a problem with em.
 

lulubel

Über Member
Location
Malaga, Spain
Sorry, wrong in so many ways.

Sorry, vague, but not wrong.

You had no idea what price point I was referring to with my "cheaper wheels with more spokes" v "lightweight, faster wheels with less spokes". Perhaps it would have been better to ask me to clarify that point rather than trying to make me feel small and stupid.
 

Bicycle

Guest
Sorry, vague, but not wrong.

You had no idea what price point I was referring to with my "cheaper wheels with more spokes" v "lightweight, faster wheels with less spokes". Perhaps it would have been better to ask me to clarify that point rather than trying to make me feel small and stupid.

Indeed.

The original point from Lulubel seemed perfectly sensible and helpful to me.

Even if not intended that way, the 'wrong in so many ways' reply just came across as boorish and know-it-all in a pompous and not-very-pleasant way.

This isn't a debate on Newsnight; it's just a place for people to share helpful advice.
 

Bman

Guru
Location
Herts.
Whats wrong with bunny hopping on 700x23? I do it all the time :blush:

Ok, usually slowly and not much height at all. I do this to avoid some large potholes or those stupid drain channels.

Ive also taken it off road (very light and no inclines) and across grass. No problem. Am I abusing my shiney toy!?
 

fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
Apologies if it came over as a 'know it all' etc, but I did give a real example of wheels in a good price point in the next post.

As evidence, my handbuilt Mavic CXP33 rims (4 wheels - 2 pairs) - one set with 32 spokes, the other set with 28, out perform my Deore and Sun machine built wheels on my MTB with 36 spokes. The Mavics are narrow for 23mm tyres, the others are MTB wheels.

People also cyclo-cross on some seriously expensive/lightweight wheels ?

I used the factory wheels and they broke many spokes whilst commuting, and needed truing. My handbuilt road wheels have actually seen much more abuse, and they don't need anything doing to them. My commuter set get a pounding, as I'm running fixed and carrying a heavy pannier load.

Lots of people have real problems with cheap wheels and lots of spokes. It's all down to how it's built and laced. Aksiums are a pretty low count spoked wheel set, but are very robust.

Sorry if it came over wrong, but cheap wheels aren't the best is you want bombproof and reliable. I've had many folk (non cyclists) say, oh bet those wheels aren't tough (looking at how narrow they are) - my response it that they are much stronger than many mountain bike wheels.

I do know what I'm talking about, sorry if it came over wrong. I've run cheap wheels, to very expensive wheels - Currently have 2 sets handbuilt CXP33's (track hubs and Dura Ace Road hubs), 1 set of Aksiums, 1 set of Ksyriums, a pair of Carbon Hed Jet's on Hope Titanium hubs, and heap Deore/Sunn wheels. The Sunn wheels (factory built) are the only ones that I've had any trouble with. My wife's bike has Alex rims, which are OK, but I'd break them though.
 

Bicycle

Guest
Whats wrong with bunny hopping on 700x23? I do it all the time :blush:

Ok, usually slowly and not much height at all. I do this to avoid some large potholes or those stupid drain channels.

Ive also taken it off road (very light and no inclines) and across grass. No problem. Am I abusing my shiney toy!?


No, I don't think so.

I think I'm being too precious with mine....

The bit about bunny hopping was just a failed joke about Thomas Vokk.... Thomas Veock.... Verclier... Volkswage... That French bicycle bloke who went AWOL into a car park on the TdF.

:rolleyes:
 

lulubel

Über Member
Location
Malaga, Spain
Apologies if it came over as a 'know it all' etc, but I did give a real example of wheels in a good price point in the next post.

No worries. It's easy to come across in a way you don't mean on a forum.

And your examples of wheels and prices were actually pretty close to what I had in mind, to be honest. My idea of "cheaper" is anything I can justify buying, which, in the case of wheels, is up to about £200 for a pair.
 

fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
No probs. :biggrin: Glad no offence taken. :thumbsup:

£200 is a fair amount, but it cost me £120 to get my rear rebuilt 12 months ago... just spokes and a rim on a fixed. :wacko:

Just my 2 pence with experience with wheels - i.e. use the ones that come with a bike, but when worn, you are fed up with them, at least go for Mavic or Fulcrum wheels off the peg.
 

lulubel

Über Member
Location
Malaga, Spain
Just my 2 pence with experience with wheels - i.e. use the ones that come with a bike, but when worn, you are fed up with them, at least go for Mavic or Fulcrum wheels off the peg.

This is what I've done - at least as far as using the ones that came with the bike - and haven't had any trouble with them, to be honest. But I am a relatively lightweight female, so I'm sure that makes quite a bit of difference. I do want to replace my wheels (preferably with something lighter and faster), but until they actually need replacing, I've got a lot of other things to spend my money on.
 

MacB

Lover of things that come in 3's
I'm a fan of larger tyres, smallest I have are 700x32, and there are various factors to look at and consider when making your decision:-

frame - these can limit the size of tyres you can run

brakes - these can also limit the size of tyres

speed - lighter, firmer, faster is widely believed and is no doubt true when the rider is able to maximise this potential. It's also perfectly possible to get reasonably light, and fast, wheels/tyres in the 700x28 to 700x40 range. Your own weight and fitness will make a difference as well, heavier and less fit will make a narrower tyre feel harsher. There's the obvious aspect that you weigh more but also you tend not to pedal as much, or as vigorously, thus you sit heavier and differently on a bike than a fit athletic rider would.

road surface - most people seem to accept that larger tyres wil lgive a better ride on a rough surface but there's also a belief that they can give a faster ride as they don't lose as much energy via deflection, or something along those lines.

distance - if you read around you'll see lots of discussion about how a bike/saddle is comfy for X number of miles then becomes progressively worse. There're a lot of factors that can influence this, the first to get right is bike setup, so saddle height, fore/aft position and reach/height of bars. If these aren't right then any bike can potentially give problems over time. But fatigue is a big factor as well, as you tire you pedal less and your posture slumps, this significantly alters the pressure points on the bike. A harsh ride, on skinny hard tyres, can increase the fatigue aspect, how much would depend on base fitness levels.

The problem with taking advice on the net is you don't know the other persons fitness levels, pain/endurance thresholds and experience of differing tyre sizes. For example a lot of people that will say 23mm may not have ridden larger tyres or only in heavy puncture resistant versions. They may also have only experienced alternate rides on very different bikes where bike weight and geometry are a factor as well.

Something I've posted before is a comparison that may be useful, I had two bikes setup fairly similarly, one for commuting and one for the weekend, as follows:-

weekend - carbon/alu mix frame, lightish wheels, 700x23 tyres, 9 speed triple, butterly trekking bars, total bike weight of 22lbs
commuter - steel frame, 9 speed hub gear, 700x35 M+(very heavy) tyres, mudguards, rack, panniers, total bike weight 35bls plus panniers

Speed difference between the two over the same 20 mile route was 1.5-2mph, at my speeds that equated to a time difference of 5-10 minutes. I would say that the fatigue levels were pretty similar.

A lighter bike with skinnier wheels will feel much faster than it actually is in reality, the time differences are enough to really matter if you're competing.
 
OP
OP
Strick

Strick

Active Member
Some good reading there, thanks.
Im looking at keeping my current bike for commuting, and the one im considering will be more of a weekend / evening toy for some hopefully longer rides when im not lugging all my day to day work crap around with me.
 
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