Wheel: What have I done wrong?

[Hugh Manatee]

Here's my problem. Look at the picture and you'll see that the cone is sort of hidden inside the cassette body. This made adjusting the cones very difficult, (I had to file the edges off a washer so that the cone spanner had something to grip to).

The hub seemed to adjust well enough but now the wheel is no longer central in the frame; it rubs on the seat stay. I'm going to dismantle but was hoping for some ideas.

I only ever undo the drive side. I leave the cones on the other side where thay are so I have a fixed point to rebuild from. The bearings were replaced on this (gone wrong) build as the old grease had gone funny and the bearings were pitted. I have replaced with 1/4 inch (6.4mm) loose bearings and a general purpose motor grease. There were 9 each side. All of this I have done before.

Any ideas? Wish me luck, I'm going in!

 

[mjr]

Rubs on which side?

 

[Hugh Manatee]

Rubs on which side?

D'oh! It's in bits now. Non drive I think.

 

[mjr]

I've not much idea but thought it might help others. I'd check the old balls with calipers, just in case they're some unusual size.

 

[fossyant]

Only ever remove the cones off the non drive side. You then adjust the non drive. You'll have a bit of trial and error now getting the axel central. I'd say try about 6mm free at one end. You want both ends of the axel to have the same amount of free space.

 

[fossyant]

Hand tighten the drive side then take off non drive. Now tighten drive side when out of the hub.

 

[Hugh Manatee]

Thanks guys. I must have had some sort of "Brain Fart"! I took a picture of the wrong side. The cones were hidden on the non drive side as well! I have taken it all apart again, measured new against old (Same size as far as my cheap micrometer is concerned) and rebuilt it all.

This time it is exactly as you would want. Happy days, I can now go mountain biking with my daughter. I thought I would have to take another bike and I'm not sure i could find the Pace Forks pump straight away! The only suspension this one has is a Flexstem!

Thanks for your replies!

 

[Yellow Saddle]

Only ever remove the cones off the non drive side. You then adjust the non drive. You'll have a bit of trial and error now getting the axel central. I'd say try about 6mm free at one end. You want both ends of the axel to have the same amount of free space.

Good advice that. But I'd like to add to it and offer a solution to finding the exact right position of the right jamb nut (the approximate 6mm you mention).

We know the width of the dropouts on the bike (120mm for track bikes, 126mm for 7-speed, 130mm for all other road bikes, 135mm for MTBs and 145mm for tandems) and we can measure the length of the axle, say 145mm.

Thus, 145 mm minus drop-out width (say 135mm) equals 10mm. Divide that by two and you have to have an 5mm spacing for the jamb nut on each side.

 

[Hugh Manatee]

Good advice as ever! Thing is I never take off both sides. I can only think one of the bearing covers didn't bed in properly? The one is a proper natty little job that slides around a tenth of a turn on itself thus opening up two little ports for grease in/out.

I really like working on old Shimano stuff.

 

[drummerbod]

Made, what maybe a similar mistake myself recently. The cones\nut\washer are slighlty different depths from side to side. I put mine back the wrong way and the discs were rubbing badly as the hub was off centre. Took me a while to work out I assembled wrong.

 

[drummerbod]

Here is my Shimano Freehub... you can see one the cones is slightly deeper than the other.
http://bike.shimano.com/media/techd...FH/EV-FH-M475-2198A_v1_m56577569830728374.pdf

 

[Smurfy]

Only ever remove the cones off the non drive side. You then adjust the non drive. You'll have a bit of trial and error now getting the axel central. I'd say try about 6mm free at one end. You want both ends of the axel to have the same amount of free space.

Based on the fact that the freehub body is threaded, I'd say it's a fairly old one. Probably 7 speed hyperglide? I've just measured my old 7 speed hyperglide rear hub, and I've got 5.5mm protruding from each side.

 

[Hugh Manatee]

It is indeed 7 speedy Hyperglide from an early XT groupset. I still don't know what happened the first time. I only ever take the gubbins off one end of the axle so ending up with uneven ends wasn't the issue. All I did to put it right was take it apart again, check the bearings were the correct 1/4 inch size, (they were) and reassemble. It all went back together very well with the cones ending up in an adjustable position.

I think my guess of a seal/cover not seating properly the first time is what happened. I would have done it at the time but the monsoon started up again and I lost interest.

It is a nice old fillet brazed frame. Once my new tyres (skinwall of course) arrive later this week, I'll get some pictures up.

 

[Smurfy]

It is indeed 7 speedy Hyperglide from an early XT groupset. I still don't know what happened the first time. I only ever take the gubbins off one end of the axle so ending up with uneven ends wasn't the issue. All I did to put it right was take it apart again, check the bearings were the correct 1/4 inch size, (they were) and reassemble. It all went back together very well with the cones ending up in an adjustable position.

I think my guess of a seal/cover not seating properly the first time is what happened. I would have done it at the time but the monsoon started up again and I lost interest.

It is a nice old fillet brazed frame. Once my new tyres (skinwall of course) arrive later this week, I'll get some pictures up.

If you need a cassette, I've just bought one of these. I'm not sure how much longer the fully nickel plated 7 speed ones will be available, so get one while you can.

http://www.halfords.com/cycling/bik...ables/shimano-cs-hg50-7-speed-cassette-12-28t

 

[Hugh Manatee]

Halfords? Who would of thought it? I have a spare in the loft. Somewhere was selling off new old stock XT ones a few years ago. I might pop into Halfords and get one anyway. Cheers for the heads up!