Wheel weight limits
- Thread starter dee.jay
- Start date
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Waiting for another reply now but thinking about getting a wheel built and some new brakes, trouble is, I'm now looking at spending between £2-300 - would I not just be better off getting a new bike and getting a wheel to put on that?
The problem with my wheel is that it's a screw-on freewheel and I need to buy a new cassette as well. Cost on top of cost! I could take advantage of a 8/9/10 speed cassette, but then this means a new shifter as well... Could just stick with 7 (current wheel) but I dunno.
One option could be to get a wheel built with a 7 speed cassette and use the cheap wheel for a turbo trainer (I dont own one at the moment) as I've got spare tyres and tubes as well can just swap it out if I want a turbo session then.
Did go down halfords and looked at their Cyclocross Boardmans though, the CX Team (£900) was very nice, but no eyelets for a rear mudguard (despite having the fitting at the top for one) so that seems a bit daft to me - pity, it was a very nice bike!
The problem with my wheel is that it's a screw-on freewheel and I need to buy a new cassette as well. Cost on top of cost! I could take advantage of a 8/9/10 speed cassette, but then this means a new shifter as well... Could just stick with 7 (current wheel) but I dunno.
One option could be to get a wheel built with a 7 speed cassette and use the cheap wheel for a turbo trainer (I dont own one at the moment) as I've got spare tyres and tubes as well can just swap it out if I want a turbo session then.
Did go down halfords and looked at their Cyclocross Boardmans though, the CX Team (£900) was very nice, but no eyelets for a rear mudguard (despite having the fitting at the top for one) so that seems a bit daft to me - pity, it was a very nice bike!
I'm not allowed to buy a bike yet 
There are some personal issues that prevent me spending a large bit of wonga on a bike for the time being - but it will happen eventually.
I just don't want to break a nice bike by being a lard-arse!
I do really, really like that Whyte though
(Though, if I tell Mrs .Jay that I need to spend £250 on my current bike then she might say it's not worth bothering and I can catalyse the purchase of said Whyte/or other nice bike)
There are some personal issues that prevent me spending a large bit of wonga on a bike for the time being - but it will happen eventually.I just don't want to break a nice bike by being a lard-arse!
I do really, really like that Whyte though
(Though, if I tell Mrs .Jay that I need to spend £250 on my current bike then she might say it's not worth bothering and I can catalyse the purchase of said Whyte/or other nice bike)
e-rider
Banned member
- Location
- South West
weight limits range from 95-110 kg for most manufacturers. you are over that.
You will need a good quality 36h handbuilt rear wheel. No 'factory' wheel will stay true for long unless you slim down to 100kg or less
Spoked Wheels
Legendary Member
- Location
- Bournemouth
What is the spec of said wheels?
Nigelnaturist
Guru
- Location
- Pontefract
It would have to be a good one as I have got through a pair of RS10 and 11's I am 78Kgs bike 12Kgs so that leaves me 5-15Kg for rubbish. In my case both times the rim that has fractured.
Nigelnaturist
Guru
- Location
- Pontefract
With the right spacers 7sp cassettes fit, I used an 8sp cog at one point as a spacer.
Yes I'll go for a 7sp one and save any further expense. I'll have to wait until Tuesday to get the bike back (bad times) so I might as well take some time and decide what to do. And yes, I appreciate I need to slim down (and I am working on it!) (I was a lot more than that once upon a time) but conversely there are riders that are bigger and heavier than me that get on just fine.
@Spoked Wheels - this was on his website. Not sure the exact spec.
Bottom line - I think I will get a hand built wheel for the time being that will take my weight and slim down on this bike. Brake upgrade for front and back would be £50 so I'll go for that too. I need a dependable commuter. Otherwise I'll just drive all the time and that defeats the object of commuting in the first place! I sit down enough in my job as it is! (Telecoms Engineer - often static for many hours at a time, and at night too)
@Spoked Wheels - this was on his website. Not sure the exact spec.
Bottom line - I think I will get a hand built wheel for the time being that will take my weight and slim down on this bike. Brake upgrade for front and back would be £50 so I'll go for that too. I need a dependable commuter. Otherwise I'll just drive all the time and that defeats the object of commuting in the first place! I sit down enough in my job as it is! (Telecoms Engineer - often static for many hours at a time, and at night too)
Nigelnaturist
Guru
- Location
- Pontefract
ask @BrianEvesham how he got on with his R501's he was a larger chap when he started, last I noted he was down below 16st (sorry Brian if it is much less these days), I have just got some R501's having as I said got through a pair of RS10/11's in two years.
BrianEvesham
Mask is gone!
- Location
- South Littleton, Evesham.
I have no issues with 501's. back up to 16 1/2 stone post winter weight. I was nearly 21 st when I started on the original T3 wheels.
S.Giles
Guest
There's something I don't understand here. Shouldn't any wheel with 36 properly-tensioned spokes be easily able to support the weight of even the heaviest rider?
(I can see those daft wheels with hardly any spokes and Baco-foil rims having trouble, but surely heavy riders avoid those anyway.)
Edit: I started to think about how tandem wheels could be different, and found some interesting information here. Scroll down to About Wheel Durability.
(I can see those daft wheels with hardly any spokes and Baco-foil rims having trouble, but surely heavy riders avoid those anyway.)
Edit: I started to think about how tandem wheels could be different, and found some interesting information here. Scroll down to About Wheel Durability.
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Well yeah but also when you factor in that my entire bike was probably less than £300 to build, who knows how much was spent on the wheels, I've spoken to other people who are heavier than me or know of riders who are bigger than me and have zero problems - but they've spent a lot of money in the first place - so I dunno.
Maybe I am wrong, but the only conclusion I can come to is that my wheel being a cheap one probably is not up to the job of carrying my weight at the moment. I can't see any other way to look at it?
It's been trued once by a wheel builder who says he undid all the spokes and tightened from scratch.
Maybe I am wrong, but the only conclusion I can come to is that my wheel being a cheap one probably is not up to the job of carrying my weight at the moment. I can't see any other way to look at it?
It's been trued once by a wheel builder who says he undid all the spokes and tightened from scratch.
w00hoo_kent
One of the 64K
- Location
- Maidstone or Greenwich
I thought this with my penultimate spoke break so loosened the spokes myself before I took the wheel in to be sorted next time. Got 19 miles before the next spoke went. So no idea if it had been done the time before or not...
I think you're on the money, the wheels are a fraction of the value of a relatively cheap bike. Any that you buy to replace them are likely to be better because they've been built to that price point which will hopefully be well above the budget wheels on the original bike.
