Whats the adaptor called for mtb callipers on cx's?

[gb155]

What bike's this going on Gaz?

If it doesn't have a disc ready fork/frame, it won't work in any case. (The only CX I see in your line up is the Uncle John).

Greg: I keep thinking along those lines (barcons & v/canti levers) for the tourer, but STi has made me lazy Maybe if I get a dedicated commuter for the Tiagra levers to live on...

Hi John, it's going on the uncle John ( oh the irony ) I have a set of wheels ready for it & will be replacing the fork for one that will take disks

 

[John the Monkey]

Looking at PX's readers-rides ( sadly, unrelated to readers wives) someone had added hope hydro disks to a Uncle John with drop bars ( on the flats) and kept the road sti levers, has anyone here done that ? I really want to keep drops and sti's however hydraulic disk brakes are where it's at tbh

TRP (Tektro's high end division) do a doodad that converts cable to hydraulic, the parabox; http://road.cc/content/news/32381-taipei-sneak-peek-trp-parabox-hydraulic-junction I'd imagine it's not a cheap option though.

You sound like your mind's made up, but I say again, tuning your current canti setup might give you the power you want and would be WAY cheaper than getting a disc ready fork, wheel, brakes...

 

[gb155]

TRP (Tektro's high end division) do a doodad that converts cable to hydraulic, the parabox; http://road.cc/conte...raulic-junction I'd imagine it's not a cheap option though.

You sound like your mind's made up, but I say again, tuning your current canti setup might give you the power you want and would be WAY cheaper than getting a disc ready fork, wheel, brakes...

Hi John

I'm not sure what you mean by tuning my canti's ??

 

[Alun]

Looking at PX's readers-rides ( sadly, unrelated to readers wives) someone had added hope hydro disks to a Uncle John with drop bars ( on the flats) and kept the road sti levers, has anyone here done that ? I really want to keep drops and sti's however hydraulic disk brakes are where it's at tbh

I saw that as well, bit Heath Robinson, I think we're still a couple of years away from hydraulics on drop bars, shame !

 

[gb155]

I saw that as well, bit Heath Robinson, I think we're still a couple of years away from hydraulics on drop bars, shame !

Even tho I have bought some wheels, I'm not adversed to trying to get a good canti set up ( I assume John means a different type of pads and brakes ?)

I'd also assume the 700c disk wheels would work on my mtb turning it to a 29'er ??

 

[Alun]

Even tho I have bought some wheels, I'm not adversed to trying to get a good canti set up ( I assume John means a different type of pads and brakes ?)

I'd also assume the 700c disk wheels would work on my mtb turning it to a 29'er ??

I have been unable to get a "good" canti setup despite trying 3 different cantis and 2 aftermarket pads. The setup I have now is "OK", no better than that.

I think that 29er wheels and disc braked 700c road wheel are much the same.

 

[vernon]

I have been unable to get a "good" canti setup despite trying 3 different cantis and 2 aftermarket pads. The setup I have now is "OK", no better than that.

I think that 29er wheels and disc braked 700c road wheel are much the same.

Froggleg calipers shod with Koolstop salmon pads bring my 24 stone carcase and bike to a controlled halt pretty sharpish.

 

[gb155]

Froggleg calipers shod with Koolstop salmon pads bring my 24 stone carcase and bike to a controlled halt pretty sharpish.

Ooooooooh right - I've ordered some koolstop salmons - let's see how much better they are ( thanks for the tip btw)

 

[John the Monkey]

1) If the brake comes with a link wire, don't use it - use a proper straddle instead.

2) Change the pads for Kool Stops

3) Experiment with the position of the straddle - in general, lower gives you more stopping power, at the expense of less space between pad and rim. Bear in mind that low profile brakes (e.g. Oryx) LOSE mechanical advantage as the pad approaches the rim.

4) I like a fork crown mounted hanger better than a steerer mounted hanger, personally.

For Oryx, on the LHT, I liked the straddle so the clamp bolt to the main wire was level with the lower part of the headset. For CR720s, I have the straddle much lower, with the clamp bolt level with the fork crown nut.

Pads will cost no more than £8 (I like Fibrax Xtreme, £6 at my LBS). Decent straddles (I like Tektro's that they ship with the CR720) a similar amount, I think.

 

[gb155]

1) If the brake comes with a link wire, don't use it - use a proper straddle instead.

2) Change the pads for Kool Stops

3) Experiment with the position of the straddle - in general, lower gives you more stopping power, at the expense of less space between pad and rim. Bear in mind that low profile brakes (e.g. Oryx) LOSE mechanical advantage as the pad approaches the rim.

4) I like a fork crown mounted hanger better than a steerer mounted hanger, personally.

For Oryx, on the LHT, I liked the straddle so the clamp bolt to the main wire was level with the lower part of the headset. For CR720s, I have the straddle much lower, with the clamp bolt level with the fork crown nut.

Pads will cost no more than £8 (I like Fibrax Xtreme, £6 at my LBS). Decent straddles (I like Tektro's that they ship with the CR720) a similar amount, I think.

Thanks John

I've ordered a set of koolstop salmon's , worth a go eh ?

 

[John the Monkey]

I've ordered a set of koolstop salmon's , worth a go eh ?

For sure.

I got a lot of power out of my Oryx brakes, but found the lack of clearance a bit annoying, so went back to CR720s. Don't forget that I run 42c tyres & mudguards, so I probably don't have my straddle wire as low as it could go with, say, 32c or similar tyres.