As I said: you don't understand the potential difference / the battery effect.
This potential difference, in the presence of a conducting medium, allows an electrical current to flow to the anodic material, which corrodes to then DISSOLVE within that conducting medium (named as "electrolyt").
You know what dissolving is? The anodic material desintegrates and mixes up with the electrolyt. As salt in water. Fine particles. Take away the water and you see fine powder.
Now explain me how such fine powder, coming from the jointed surfaces, is gonna seize the joint.
It's the very opposite: the joint get loose.
An example my bike suffered: the smart'o'guys of its production company chosed 2 A2-70 stainless steel to fix the bikes stand on the frame, through an aluminium block, in order to bring the to-mate surfaces parallel to eachother.
After some time, I noticed that those bolts had come loose.
I retensioned them.
They again came loose.
I retensioned them again.
But they kept on coming loose.
Then some day, at a flea market, with me parking my bike a couple dozens times, it became plain ridiculous. The bike fell down several times, with me retensioning the bolts all the time. With tens of minutes inbetween.
Back home, I wanted to know what was going on with that stand.
I took out completely the two bolts, removed the block. The bolts were covered with white dust. On the ground: fine white powder.
Then I started to realize what had happened. Galvanic corrosion that dissolved the aluminium, causing lotsa play.
The holes through the interface block, were enlarged. The thread in the bikes frame, was damaged.
I solved it by replacing the stainless steel bolts with longer non stainless steel bolts, with washers and nuts on the other side.
All greased to avoid corrosion. Not to avoid galvanic corrosion, but to avoid "common" corrosion: RUST.
And no problem since. The bikes stand just stays fixed. It's years ago now.
I informed the production company of the problem. They first asked me what alternative I would use, I proposed non stainless and grease/oil to avoid rust. They said they would take this in account for next productions. I don't know if they did.
So galvanic corrosion, that implies DISSOLVING of joints material, that causes seizure of the joint?
Seizing has a number of possible reasons. One is an inner material that expands more (ex due to oxidation) than the outer material. Abit like frost causes water to crystallize to a bigger volume. Abit like non stainless steel oxidizes to rust that occupies a bigger volume. That is for ex the reason for what they name "concrete rot". If water reaches reinforcement bars, the steel corrodes, expands, and pushes away more concrete, aggraveting/speeding up the process.
Chlorine can even make stainless steels rust. Especially the cheapest / most common grade 304 also named A2. That is even especially prone, more than common steel. Know why stainless doesn't rust? Or why aluminium doesn't rust? Because it DOES rust, BUT, the rust forms a protective layer against further rust. Take away that protective layer, or prevent its formation (case stainless) and it just continues to rust like common steel.
An example: take a so called salt lamp. That is a nice looking block salt, with a lamp in it. People use it as a sphere lamp.
But there is a danger most are unaware of: the salt block has a cold surface. Water from the air condenses on it, salt dissolves in it (so the salt block shrinks over time) and the water-with-salt flows to under the lamp. You get water with salt, possibly near metals, near electrical wiring.
I know someone that had such lamp (hence my example), discovered the water, and wondered where it came from. Person decided to put the lamp in a kitchen stainless steel bowl. Some weeks later, the bowl had holes with ugly brown edges in its bottom. In the end, person was forced to put a glass ashtray under the lamp.
So salty water is an own story. You're mixing up stories and you know it.