What to look for on an older, second hand bike?

[thomas]

At the end of the road and around the corner there is a house which is always selling second hand bikes. They seem to be a collection of nice older bikes, such as old racers. I'm assuming the guy buys second hand and does them up a bit, though I don't really know.

Anyway. I could be tempted, to buy one if he gets something in my frame size.

Anyone got any useful advice for looking the bike over so I know that it isn't complete rubbish? Last time I had a look at the brakes and things, they seemed to be new/have a good amount left on them.

Also, what kind of price range do you think an old road bike, in reasonable condition should go for? (I know that's very vague!!)

 

[alecstilleyedye]

don't bother with an old racer from the '70s on with no sticker on the frame indicating that it's at least reynolds 531 (or reynolds anything else), as it will probably be very heavy. another sign of a cheapo mass product is what are called 'suicide levers', which are extensions to the brake levers that allow braking from the top of the drops. these never stopped the bike well, hence the nickname.

i'd not worry about how much the brakes are worn; i could sell you a bike that was one year old, fully cared for and maintained, and the amount of meat on the brakes would be random, as they get replaced regularly.

also look out for worn chain rings and cassette on any quality of second-hand purchase. if these are badly worn they will need replacing, which can get expensive relative to the cost of the second-hand bike. factor in the likelihood that tyres/tubes may also need replacing, as probably will the cabling and brake blocks.

as for pricing, have a look on ebay. there are lots of cheap reasonable old bikes on there, as well as exotica that go for £100s.

 

[thomas]

Thanks for that

 

[Piemaster]

Check the seatpost isn't stuck

 

[thomas]

Check the seatpost isn't stuck

hehe...I'd probably adjust the seatpost before taking it for a test ride. I wonder if he'll do a 24 hour test ride like some car dealers

 

[Campfire]

Do you not get problems with vintage bikes with cotter pins? I remember my Dad hammering at cotter pins on a block of wood accompanied by a lot of swearing!

 

[Zippy]

Check the seatpost isn't stuck

Oh yeah definitely. ... and the headset!

How about look for crinkled paint behind the front forks which may suggest a collision head on (car, wall etc).

 

[PpPete]

Do you not get problems with vintage bikes with cotter pins? I remember my Dad hammering at cotter pins on a block of wood accompanied by a lot of swearing!

Cotter pins... pain in the a$$, but don't bother with the wood. Just beat them to death with a hammer while supporting the crank and replace with new.

 

[PpPete]

Check the brake levers move relatively easily - and go back when released.
If not, it needs new cables. The will not "free up with use".

Have a look at the slot in the top of seat tube. Is it reasonably parallel?
If sides have been pulled together by the bolt, then the wrong diameter seat post has been fitted and locked in place by overtightening the bolt and distorting the frame.

Take a magnet with you. Avoid anything with steel wheel rims.

 

[GrahamG]

I'd second steel rims avoidance, and even extend that to 27" wheel avoidance. Not worth the hassle.

 

[johnsie]

At the end of the road and around the corner there is a house which is always selling second hand bikes. They seem to be a collection of nice older bikes, such as old racers. I'm assuming the guy buys second hand and does them up a bit, though I don't really know.

Anyway. I could be tempted, to buy one if he gets something in my frame size.

Anyone got any useful advice for looking the bike over so I know that it isn't complete rubbish? Last time I had a look at the brakes and things, they seemed to be new/have a good amount left on them.

Also, what kind of price range do you think an old road bike, in reasonable condition should go for? (I know that's very vague!!)

Hi Thomas - is this in Woking or Norwich? I'd look for the bits that aren't easy to repair/replace, so brakes tyres, chain are just "consumables".

 

[threebikesmcginty]

Do you not get problems with vintage bikes with cotter pins? I remember my Dad hammering at cotter pins on a block of wood accompanied by a lot of swearing!

They are sound methods which I find useful in fettling and general DIY.

 

[BSA]

I'd second steel rims avoidance, and even extend that to 27" wheel avoidance. Not worth the hassle.

Excuse my ignorance but whats the problem with steel rims?

 

[PpPete]

Excuse my ignorance but whats the problem with steel rims?

Very poor braking performance, especially when wet. I'm told leather faced brake blocks help... but frankly why bother?; if you have choice of bikes get one with aluminium rims.

27" wheels.... depends on the price, condition of the tyres, & what you want the bike for.