Andy in Germany
Guru
- Location
- Rottenburg am Neckar
No. I get the impression the rubber has split.
What Have You Fettled Today?
- Thread starter threebikesmcginty
- Start date
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No. I get the impression the rubber has split.
D
Deleted member 1258
Guest
I'm surprised its not anchored to something, if the rubber has split is it repairable? Or is it too much work?
Andy in Germany
Guru
- Location
- Rottenburg am Neckar
That's the question at the moment. I get the impression it was clamped into the fork but the rubber split at the point where it was clamped. I suspect the only real solution is replacement forks, which may be worth it on a Trek, if I can find compatible forks...
Jameshow
Veteran
That would be ideal ur we give the lads a spade each!!
Did you compact it down afterwards??
Andy in Germany
Guru
- Location
- Rottenburg am Neckar
Customers bike; the customer concerned is a refugee and doing his best to get a job and get integrated, so I pretended not to notice it's an online cheapo and hasn't been maintained in two years. It's getting brake and gear cables and if I can find one, a salvaged back wheel so he can commute on it to his new job on Monday.
Also failed to fix a chain in a supermarket special full suspension bike. I tried to put a new link on but for some reason I couldn't make it fit. I told the owner that if he bought a new chain he'd need a cassette, and this would cost nearly 60 with all the work involved. Unfortunately then he'd still not have a working rear brake, front light and the shifter was breaking.
His mum didn't speak German and was trying to insist I fix everything, so rather than have him stuck in the middle I left them to it.
On the other hand, Middle Son's bike is coming together well...
Also failed to fix a chain in a supermarket special full suspension bike. I tried to put a new link on but for some reason I couldn't make it fit. I told the owner that if he bought a new chain he'd need a cassette, and this would cost nearly 60 with all the work involved. Unfortunately then he'd still not have a working rear brake, front light and the shifter was breaking.
His mum didn't speak German and was trying to insist I fix everything, so rather than have him stuck in the middle I left them to it.
On the other hand, Middle Son's bike is coming together well...
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roubaixtuesday
self serving virtue signaller
Extremely annoying loud tick every pedal rev solved unexpectedly easily by tightening chainring bolts, one of which had worked loose.
Only my second attempt after tightening rear QR made no difference. Normally takes me at least three weeks, a full canister of wd40 and disassembly of every fastening at least twice to achieve that!
Only my second attempt after tightening rear QR made no difference. Normally takes me at least three weeks, a full canister of wd40 and disassembly of every fastening at least twice to achieve that!
Drove over it. Vehicles will do the rest
chriswoody
Legendary Member
- Location
- Northern Germany
So having bought the Sonder Frontier in the summer, I knew that buying a bike at the "Cheaper" end of the proper MTB spectrum would involve compromises. One of those was the front fork only having 100mm of travel, however, being as it was a Rockshox Recon fork, I knew that it could be easily changed. The Recon is offered in a range of sizes from 80 - 150mm of travel and those clever folk at Rockshox made sure that it was only one minor difference that dictated the travel length. They even went so far to detail and describe it in their technical manuals along with advice on how to change the range of travel. So with the lower legs off for their first 50 hour service, it was the ideal time to change the travel.
The secret lies in the air spring and more specifically the spacer stack that normally lives on the dark grey shaft in the foreground. My fork came with the 50mm stack as standard, (Pictured upright in the back) now sadly it can't be split ,so you have to buy the spacer kit, but at €7 it's hardly a bank breaker. This kit comes with a range of different size spacers and the tech docs give very specific instructions on which combinations you need for your desired range of travel. I decided to increase my travel to 120mm and for this, I needed a 30mm spacer stack, which I popped onto the shaft.
Now when increasing fork length you need to be careful because it will affect the frame geometry, generally every 20mm will slacken the headangle by almost a degree, not too much of a problem when your existing head angle is a little steep by modern convention. Looking around the internet, it seems the general consensus is that increasing by 20 mm is fine, any more and you start to exceed what the frame designers intended for your frame and you could potentially run into some serious problems. So for me 120mm was fine, I'm not after a killer trail bike here, but something I can have fun on and use for extended bikepacking trips off-road.
With the air spring assembly rebuilt, I continued on with the lower leg service, which is just about cleaning and re-lubing the seals, before throwing the whole fork back together and back onto the bike. So I just need to re-set the sag and then I can hopefully take it out this weekend and see how it rides.
The secret lies in the air spring and more specifically the spacer stack that normally lives on the dark grey shaft in the foreground. My fork came with the 50mm stack as standard, (Pictured upright in the back) now sadly it can't be split ,so you have to buy the spacer kit, but at €7 it's hardly a bank breaker. This kit comes with a range of different size spacers and the tech docs give very specific instructions on which combinations you need for your desired range of travel. I decided to increase my travel to 120mm and for this, I needed a 30mm spacer stack, which I popped onto the shaft.
Now when increasing fork length you need to be careful because it will affect the frame geometry, generally every 20mm will slacken the headangle by almost a degree, not too much of a problem when your existing head angle is a little steep by modern convention. Looking around the internet, it seems the general consensus is that increasing by 20 mm is fine, any more and you start to exceed what the frame designers intended for your frame and you could potentially run into some serious problems. So for me 120mm was fine, I'm not after a killer trail bike here, but something I can have fun on and use for extended bikepacking trips off-road.
With the air spring assembly rebuilt, I continued on with the lower leg service, which is just about cleaning and re-lubing the seals, before throwing the whole fork back together and back onto the bike. So I just need to re-set the sag and then I can hopefully take it out this weekend and see how it rides.
DCLane
Found in the Yorkshire hills ...
- Location
- Dewsbury, West Yorkshire
More work on the Thompson Capella frameset I bought, which has gained a pair of Dura-Ace brake calipers along with Mavic Exalith pads, as I'm going to use son no. 2's old Exalith race wheels for a bit.
Also this week I picked up a pair of Elite Vico Glam bottle cages in dark metallic blue via eBay. They were expensive but set the frame off nicely.
Finally this evening I put a new set of hoods onto a pair of Dura-Ace 9001 shifters I picked up. One I knew had a hood tear, but the other wasn't in a good state either. Fitting them wasn't easily as it's a very tight fit; they went on better with the bar clamp removed but one shifter now has my blood on it. All done, along with a clean of the shifters, and they're on the bars.
Photos shortly, but I'm now getting closer to the end. Only the really difficult bit to do; I'm using 3T Aeronova bars as we have a couple of spare pairs and from memory I'm aware they're a pain to fit cable outers through. Once the cabling's done it'll be a chain plus adjustments.
There wasn't a rush, since I can take my time and then take the Dawes Giro most-of-a-bike off the smart turbo to dismantle once finished, but SWMBO wants the dining room cleared. I've been doing the build inside rather than out in the conservatory workshop since a) it's been cold and b) I don't want the locals pinching my nice frame and components before it's all bolted down on the turbo. However, needs must ...
The Dawes Giro will then head off to be stored, doing a swap with my Raleigh, or stripped back to a frameset and sold. Still undecided there, although I've spent a lot more than planned on the Thompson build. It was supposed to be simply a frame swap and I've turned it into a full Dura-Ace 11-speed build, buying the groupset piecemeal.
Also this week I picked up a pair of Elite Vico Glam bottle cages in dark metallic blue via eBay. They were expensive but set the frame off nicely.
Finally this evening I put a new set of hoods onto a pair of Dura-Ace 9001 shifters I picked up. One I knew had a hood tear, but the other wasn't in a good state either. Fitting them wasn't easily as it's a very tight fit; they went on better with the bar clamp removed but one shifter now has my blood on it. All done, along with a clean of the shifters, and they're on the bars.
Photos shortly, but I'm now getting closer to the end. Only the really difficult bit to do; I'm using 3T Aeronova bars as we have a couple of spare pairs and from memory I'm aware they're a pain to fit cable outers through. Once the cabling's done it'll be a chain plus adjustments.
There wasn't a rush, since I can take my time and then take the Dawes Giro most-of-a-bike off the smart turbo to dismantle once finished, but SWMBO wants the dining room cleared. I've been doing the build inside rather than out in the conservatory workshop since a) it's been cold and b) I don't want the locals pinching my nice frame and components before it's all bolted down on the turbo. However, needs must ...
The Dawes Giro will then head off to be stored, doing a swap with my Raleigh, or stripped back to a frameset and sold. Still undecided there, although I've spent a lot more than planned on the Thompson build. It was supposed to be simply a frame swap and I've turned it into a full Dura-Ace 11-speed build, buying the groupset piecemeal.
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Jameshow
Veteran
I hope you haven't put Dura ace on a Dawes giro!🤣🤣🤣
DCLane
Found in the Yorkshire hills ...
- Location
- Dewsbury, West Yorkshire
No, but it does have a CeramicSpeed bottom bracket with shifters/derailleurs/crankset being Shimano 105. No brakes though as they weren't needed.
I'm guessing it's the only Dawes Giro to have had that type of bottom bracket fitted. Ever.
Reynard
Guru
- Location
- Cambridgeshire, UK
The electrics on the garage / utility room, as the fuse box tripped overnight. All working again now. Also gave the car a quick once over (oil, coolant, wash-wipe, tyres etc) as well.
Ming the Merciless
There is no mercy
- Location
- Inside my skull
Applied some lube
Tom B
Guru
- Location
- Lancashire
Clunker fettling. Despite having some generic slime in my inner tube my rear tyre would repeatedly go flat.
I've found that it'll occasionally loose pressure and that seems to be when it's punctured and lost a bit of air before the slime has sealed it I'll pump it up and off we go.
Gave it a coat of looking at and marked up all the spots where the orangey slime was visible and explored the cuts...
Rode it for two days then left it for two and it was flat again. Jet washed it and explored the marked up areas again. Found a fine piece of fine wire in one of the cuts that I think was repuncturing the hole.
Had a look at the poor front shifting and found that a decent chunk of the FD cage has been worn away over the years.
The poor rear shifting is probably a worn chain and work jockey wheels.
Despite having a hefty clunk/crack once per revolution the Bb is nice and tight and will live on.
My daily bike is still running a spiked s
tyre wheels after the bearings went goosed and the Freewheel Body stuck in FH during the December iceage. My thighs are bulking up from pushing them around and Ive grown used to the constant noise, but really need to get a normal wheel and true back on.
So made a start on stripping out the bearings then remembered my 14mm hex socket is at my dad's house. I have been considering stripping down the Freehub body and replacing the bearings inside it to give it a new lease of life but not sure if it's worth it. I'm pretty sure the issue was water in the fh body that froze in the cold weather. Pouring a cup of hot water over it got me 2 miles and peeing in it another 2 miles. Then had to walk 2.
*Had to have a lie down in a dark room after finding Screwfix degreaser has gone from £8.99/5ltr to £11.99.
I've found that it'll occasionally loose pressure and that seems to be when it's punctured and lost a bit of air before the slime has sealed it I'll pump it up and off we go.
Gave it a coat of looking at and marked up all the spots where the orangey slime was visible and explored the cuts...
Rode it for two days then left it for two and it was flat again. Jet washed it and explored the marked up areas again. Found a fine piece of fine wire in one of the cuts that I think was repuncturing the hole.
Had a look at the poor front shifting and found that a decent chunk of the FD cage has been worn away over the years.
The poor rear shifting is probably a worn chain and work jockey wheels.
Despite having a hefty clunk/crack once per revolution the Bb is nice and tight and will live on.
My daily bike is still running a spiked s
tyre wheels after the bearings went goosed and the Freewheel Body stuck in FH during the December iceage. My thighs are bulking up from pushing them around and Ive grown used to the constant noise, but really need to get a normal wheel and true back on.
So made a start on stripping out the bearings then remembered my 14mm hex socket is at my dad's house. I have been considering stripping down the Freehub body and replacing the bearings inside it to give it a new lease of life but not sure if it's worth it. I'm pretty sure the issue was water in the fh body that froze in the cold weather. Pouring a cup of hot water over it got me 2 miles and peeing in it another 2 miles. Then had to walk 2.
*Had to have a lie down in a dark room after finding Screwfix degreaser has gone from £8.99/5ltr to £11.99.
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