What Have You Fettled Today?

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cyberknight

As long as I breathe, I attack.
took the new rear wheel for the commuter to the lbs so they could true the old rotor , i tried with a spanner but made it worse as i need a proper tool to do it .
 
Second fettle of the day, insulate the integral metal garage up and over door.
 

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palinurus

Velo, boulot, dodo
Location
Watford
Gave my Surly a clean. While doing so I noticed the rear gear cable was routed around the wrong side of the fork. What idiot did that? I thought, then realised it must have been me. Couldn't work out how I'd managed it.

Later remembered I'd dropped the fork out to clean and grease the lower headset bearing a little while ago.

Put it back the right way (by pulling the cable out and re-fitting rather than by removing the fork)
 

fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
Got to love the spares drawers/boxes.

My old MTB which I use for commuting has an old Shimano STX cartridge headset. Generally it's been very good over the years and I did manage to find a 'spare' on ebay, and additional set of shimano bearings - this was a year or two ago. It's these bearings that are tricky to get these days.

Noticed recently there was some tell tale rusty grease marks on the bottom race, leaking out. Bars off, bearings out, bottom one not healthy. Split the cartridge, cleaned up the races with the dremmel, popped in new ball bearings and we're off. Except the top locking bnut only has a small amount of thread on the steerer to bite on as the original Tange headset was a lower stack. Top nut not tightening properly and skipping the thread. Argh, the time has come for a new headset (lower stack).

Into the spare draw, and I find an un-used 1-1/8th locking nut. Bingo, that's worked. I then found the four spare bearings ! - Could have just swapped one out instead of rebuilding.
 
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ColinJ

Puzzle game procrastinator!
I have just been reading that a 1.85 mm spacer is needed for an 11-speed MTB cassette on an 11-speed road hub. I think that might be my problem! (I don't remember there being a spacer when I moved the cassette from an old wheel to the new one but the original wheel might have a MTB hub.)

I'm heading back down soon and have bought a spacer just in case. I also had to order a new cassette tool because my old one has gone missing.

Something else has occurred to me as a potential source of the bike's transmission noises... It has a 1x11 setup with a wide-narrow chainring. I had assumed that it would be impossible to get the chain position wrong (wide tooth in narrow part of chain; narrow tooth in wide part of chain) but I didn't make any attempt to check. Maybe I have somehow squeezed the chain onto the ring incorrectly?
 

youngoldbloke

The older I get, the faster I used to be ...
Why the sad smileys on this? 2nd time its happened.

Illegal bike, nothing amusing about it.
 

Vantage

Carbon fibre... LMAO!!!
Illegal because of its wattage. Still limited to 15.5 mph apart from the throttle. I generally pootle around at 12 mph no matter what the power.
My previous legal motor often produced over 630w at peak. This is no different.
 

JhnBssll

Guru
Location
Suffolk
The legality issue is minor in my eyes, it's all about respectful use. A muppet on a fully legal ebike can do a lot of damage whereas someone with a bit of common sense can use an illegal ebike very safely.
 

ColinJ

Puzzle game procrastinator!
[Attempting to get rid of annoying noise from transmission of my bike in Devon]

I'm heading back down soon and have bought a spacer just in case. I also had to order a new cassette tool because my old one has gone missing.
I am back down in Devon with the bike now...

As soon as I went to take the cassette lockring off I knew that a spacer IS needed - there was a quick click and the lockring became loose. It should undo past several serrations, which would take much more effort and make much more noise. I put the spacer on behind the cassette, and did the lockring back up. Ah yes, click-click-click-click-click-tight!

I then had to adjust the gear endstops and indexing. While I was at it, I also adjusted the disc brakes. I went for a 5 minute test ride. All seemed good, gears and brakes working properly, bike almost silent. :smile:

I am going to go for a 25 km test ride shortly but just noticed that my Garmin battery is flat. I'll give it a 25% charge, which should be ample for such a short ride. I'll add a PS below when I get back.

Something else has occurred to me as a potential source of the bike's transmission noises... It has a 1x11 setup with a wide-narrow chainring. I had assumed that it would be impossible to get the chain position wrong (wide tooth in narrow part of chain; narrow tooth in wide part of chain) but I didn't make any attempt to check. Maybe I have somehow squeezed the chain onto the ring incorrectly?
The chain was correctly positioned on the ring. I tried putting it on the wrong way and it wouldn't go on - good! Maybe a worn chain might, but this one certainly would not.

PS I just did a lumpy 28 km loop. The bike was great! The clicks and clacks from the transmission have stopped. The gear indexing and brakes are better than before.

And... I managed to dodge rain on the ride. I could see it over distant hills but I just got a few spells of light drizzle.
 
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Went to build a front wheel for the All City only to find that the SP dynamo hub is 28h not 32 :banghead:;box deffo says 32h so a mix up somewhere so will have to get it swapped for the right one.

So started the rear Hope on to the Vapour rim instead.
 
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