Being sensible, whilst using the Dremel with a cutting-disc to trim the mudguard stays
Using a Dremel to cut mudguard stays is not that sensible, cable cutters trim them much cleaner and much safer!
Being sensible, whilst using the Dremel with a cutting-disc to trim the mudguard stays
Couldn't find mineUsing a Dremel to cut mudguard stays is not that sensible, cable cutters trim them much cleaner and much safer!
Couldn't find mine
They all have caps on, similar to these
https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m19b0s190p2352/STRONGLIGHT-Draw-Bolts
Did you dab a bit on each link with a cotton bud?Oiled my recumbent chain. Three hours later had cup of tea.
I don't think (not sure) it's about "burrs" / filing off, but about the "pitch", the distance between engagement points (teeth), being bigger, giving the teeth tips suddenly a bigger distance to travel to the chains next rollers, causing that ticking. That suddenly being the cause of the ticking noise.I was thinking along those lines myself.
If I am pedalling fairly gently the noise is absent. Once I put more effort in, it starts. It happens when my right pedal is at about 5 o'clock (looking from the chainring side). I climbed out of the saddle the other day to confirm that the saddle and seatpost were not culprits - I still got the noise. I can modify it by varying my pedalling style.
I'll take the chain off tomorrow and look at the chainring. If I spot any burrs on the teeth, I'll file them off and see if that fixes the problem.
I still have a stuck chainring bolt so I would have to sort that out before rotating or replacing the ring.
I took a look at the ring. It was definitely showing signs of wear and there were small burrs. I managed to remove the damaged chainring bolt so I took the ring off and filed down those burrs. I then rotated the ring by 72 degrees (1 bolt's worth; 1/5 rotation).I don't think (not sure) it's about "burrs" / filing off, but about the "pitch", the distance between engagement points (teeth), being bigger, giving the teeth tips suddenly a bigger distance to travel to the chains next rollers, causing that ticking. That suddenly being the cause of the ticking noise.
Chainring teeth wear more near the clock positions of the cranks due to pedaling force peaking there.
Rotating the chainring on its mount changes the clock position, ideally would be precisely the amount teeth where wear concentrated on, but the chainring bolts number only allows an as close as possible (so the ticking is reduced not eliminated).
In the past I did rotate chainring several times, and I indeed experienced ticking frequency / number changes.
Only crap is that rotating a chainring on its mount is a hassle due to the bolts design so trying alot wears the slots in the nuts.
The story can be complexer and harder to cope with, if additionally wear is concentrated on chain links too. My current gear 47/16 is an ideal spread, still I got the ticking starting some weeks after mounting a new
chain on a worn chainring. Before I had a 48/16 and clearly wear concentration on chain links, and it did make a difference to shift the chains position on the chainring, now it doesn't.
There are several causes simultaneously involved, chains slackness also has an effect.