What Have You Fettled Today?

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Using a Dremel to cut mudguard stays is not that sensible, cable cutters trim them much cleaner and much safer!
Couldn't find mine
They all have caps on, similar to these


https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m19b0s190p2352/STRONGLIGHT-Draw-Bolts
 

13 rider

Guru
Location
leicester
Broke a spoke on my rear wheel today not a job for me so spent time swapped tyre over onto my spare rear wheel so I could take the wheel to Lbs . Rewarded myself with a cup of coffee ,Halfway down the mug there's a knock at the door ,a parcel ,the 2 new tyres I ordered 2 days ago that were not due until Tuesday . Finished the coffee then back out took the tyre off and put the new one on and also replaced the front . So I'm now well practiced in tyre changing :laugh:
 

JhnBssll

Guru
Location
Suffolk
Had the Bianchi on the workstand this evening for a quick clean. Also moved the hoods up a few mm and dropped the nose of the saddle by a degree after the 65 miler last Sunday. Hope to get out for another longish ride this weekend to see if the adjustments have improved things :okay:
 

silva

Über Member
Location
Belgium
I was thinking along those lines myself.

If I am pedalling fairly gently the noise is absent. Once I put more effort in, it starts. It happens when my right pedal is at about 5 o'clock (looking from the chainring side). I climbed out of the saddle the other day to confirm that the saddle and seatpost were not culprits - I still got the noise. I can modify it by varying my pedalling style.

I'll take the chain off tomorrow and look at the chainring. If I spot any burrs on the teeth, I'll file them off and see if that fixes the problem.

I still have a stuck chainring bolt so I would have to sort that out before rotating or replacing the ring.
I don't think (not sure) it's about "burrs" / filing off, but about the "pitch", the distance between engagement points (teeth), being bigger, giving the teeth tips suddenly a bigger distance to travel to the chains next rollers, causing that ticking. That suddenly being the cause of the ticking noise.
Chainring teeth wear more near the clock positions of the cranks due to pedaling force peaking there.
Rotating the chainring on its mount changes the clock position, ideally would be precisely the amount teeth where wear concentrated on, but the chainring bolts number only allows an as close as possible (so the ticking is reduced not eliminated).
In the past I did rotate chainring several times, and I indeed experienced ticking frequency / number changes.
Only crap is that rotating a chainring on its mount is a hassle due to the bolts design so trying alot wears the slots in the nuts.
The story can be complexer and harder to cope with, if additionally wear is concentrated on chain links too. My current gear 47/16 is an ideal spread, still I got the ticking starting some weeks after mounting a new
chain on a worn chainring. Before I had a 48/16 and clearly wear concentration on chain links, and it did make a difference to shift the chains position on the chainring, now it doesn't.
There are several causes simultaneously involved, chains slackness also has an effect.
 

Gunk

Guru
Location
Oxford
A nice parcel arrived from Spa Cycles this morning.

My Raleigh Ti Rep came with the correct pedals but was missing the original toeclips and saddle (this was the main reason I bought it so cheap) The San Marco Concor Supercorsa saddle I've bought off eBay and that's coming from Italy ,the correct VP components toeclips and straps I sourced from Spa for only £23 which I was really pleased with. So I've reunited the bike with all it's original equipment for about £65.

The pedals should look like this

536711


536712


536713


536714


So these are now going into a box in the garage for safe keeping as instead I've fitted these, again from Spa (about half the price some chancers are asking on eBay!)

536715



536716


They are lovely quality with sealed bearings and look almost identical to the original VP pedals. but these are double sided so I can use SPD cleats for longer rides. I also fitted a second Blackburn bottle cage to match the original.

536718


536717
 

ColinJ

Puzzle game procrastinator!
I don't think (not sure) it's about "burrs" / filing off, but about the "pitch", the distance between engagement points (teeth), being bigger, giving the teeth tips suddenly a bigger distance to travel to the chains next rollers, causing that ticking. That suddenly being the cause of the ticking noise.
Chainring teeth wear more near the clock positions of the cranks due to pedaling force peaking there.
Rotating the chainring on its mount changes the clock position, ideally would be precisely the amount teeth where wear concentrated on, but the chainring bolts number only allows an as close as possible (so the ticking is reduced not eliminated).
In the past I did rotate chainring several times, and I indeed experienced ticking frequency / number changes.
Only crap is that rotating a chainring on its mount is a hassle due to the bolts design so trying alot wears the slots in the nuts.
The story can be complexer and harder to cope with, if additionally wear is concentrated on chain links too. My current gear 47/16 is an ideal spread, still I got the ticking starting some weeks after mounting a new
chain on a worn chainring. Before I had a 48/16 and clearly wear concentration on chain links, and it did make a difference to shift the chains position on the chainring, now it doesn't.
There are several causes simultaneously involved, chains slackness also has an effect.
I took a look at the ring. It was definitely showing signs of wear and there were small burrs. I managed to remove the damaged chainring bolt so I took the ring off and filed down those burrs. I then rotated the ring by 72 degrees (1 bolt's worth; 1/5 rotation).

I found a new bolt in my spares box and made sure that the ring was tightly bolted down in its new position. The noise persists!

The obvious thing to do now is to put a new ring on. The worn one is a 52 and I found an almost new 54 in the spares box. I could use that but it would obviously increase the gear ratio by nearly 4%. That would be handy on the flat because the singlespeed is slightly undergeared, but it would make any climbing even harder than it already is.

There is also the question of how well the chain would fit with an extra pair of links in. The chain tensioner might not be able to take up all of the slack. A half link would probably be the answer. I might give it a go with a slackish chain just to see if that fixes the noise and sort the chain tension out later.
 

JPBoothy

Veteran
Location
Cheshire
Following a sudden seized rear wheel on my Cannondale CAADX that some how even managed to snap the QR skewer, I took the opportunity to have a good strip down while the wheel was away being rebuilt using a new sealed hub. The chain, chain-rings, cassette, jockey-wheels & cables are are all off and will soon be replaced, I have managed to open/clean and re-grease the sealed BB + Head/Fork bearing races, and a second hand pair of TRP Spyres arrived today which I have stripped/cleaned in readiness for putting back on tomorrow. I know there is a lot of mixed opinions on the Spyres but I decided they were worth a go if only to satisfy my own curiosity. I have even gone for new pads, compression less outer cable and a new disk on the front to 'try' and get the maximum benefit/improvement over my original Promax Renders. Once you start you can easily get carried away. I think bar tape will be the final piece of the jigsaw though :whistle:
 

DCLane

Found in the Yorkshire hills ...
RH Ultegra 6700 stopped shifting en route to a club ride this morning on my Wilier Montegrappa commuter. Hot-footed it home in 1st/11th and swapped bikes, diagnosing a broken upshifter. The internals had come apart and it wasn't catching.

Fitted the spare I had in stock this afternoon after giving it a good clean. New brake/gear cables installed and all working again.

I'm aware it's a known issue with the RH shifter, which was why I'd a spare one. Now I need to get another spare.
 

Vantage

Carbon fibre... LMAO!!!
No but its not the first scuffle they've been in.
Previously its been Tara just being grumpy, not letting Molly play with her toys, growling if Molly gets too exited. Molly doesn't like being left out and just pushes in if Tara and I have a game of tug the rope etc, which understandably upsets Tara.
Molly went too far tonight.
We always thought Molly to be the non aggressor out of the two of them. Boy were we wrong.
Tara has a cut ear but nothing serious. I'm still leaking from my chin and middle finger but that's down to blood thinners.
Luckily, the bike is OK. It was knocked over. :heat:
 
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