What Have You Fettled Today?

[si_c]

They're tiagra hub on open sport rims so not an amazing level enough to warrant a rebuild however I get the work done at the place I bought them from.

Depending on where you live, someone might be able to recommend a shop that will do a wheel rebuild for you - my local shop charges £30 per wheel to re-lace and true a wheel add a couple of quid for the broken spokes and it's still a lot cheaper than new wheels.

Alternatively get the wheels and then use the old ones to teach yourself how to do it and then you have a spare set for winter.

 

[Richard A Thackeray]

Not the bike, but my Octavia estate

I took it to the (trusted) garage, in Batley -after work- yesterday, because, I'd not (quite literally!) touched it from Thursday 25th July, until Sunday (4th) afternoon
When I did drive, on Sunday, there was a 'tick-tick' from it

I presumed it was brake related, as it's not from engine/gearbox
On braking, with clutch disengaged it diminishes enormously

I took all 4 wheels off in turn, & the last wheel (near-side front) showed a slight 'chip' out of the disc lip
I presumed that the pad is hitting the lip of the chip on each rotation, & suggested that on arrival

Still it's 8 years old, and heading towards 140,000miles
(I've owned it since March 2012, with about 7,000miles showing, when I bought it))
It had 4 new discs/pads @ 70.000miles (ish)
New front pads @ 109,000miles

So, they were due for replacement
(but not commented on, at the last MoT test; 1,150 miles ago)

When I rang them, I asked for 4 x new discs & pads (1)
They rang me after I got home, to state that it was on the 4-post lift & the brake-fluid was at 3% moisture, so with that not being a good place to have any water they changed that too

Went to work in the courtesy car, finished @ 14:00, drove straight to Batley
Paid, drove home, back in house for 15:05
With both renewed, braking's slightly limited at the moment, until they bed in

R/O/S
Shiney & new (and 4,000 miles old tyres)


1 Pads changed, as they'd have taken on the characteristics of the old discs, with them having a rim/lip, due to wear

 

[Hicky]

Depending on where you live, someone might be able to recommend a shop that will do a wheel rebuild for you - my local shop charges £30 per wheel to re-lace and true a wheel add a couple of quid for the broken spokes and it's still a lot cheaper than new wheels.

Alternatively get the wheels and then use the old ones to teach yourself how to do it and then you have a spare set for winter.

50p for a spoke and £10 to true, the shop built the wheels so I assume I get a discount when they go wrong. They do wheel builds for £25 labour.
I’ve done a reasonable amount of miles but as I said these are the only ones I’ve managed to snap spikes.

 

[si_c]

50p for a spoke and £10 to true, the shop built the wheels so I assume I get a discount when they go wrong. They do wheel builds for £25 labour.
I’ve done a reasonable amount of miles but as I said these are the only ones I’ve managed to snap spikes.

It might be worth getting a wheel rebuild done when you get the spokes replaced to make sure that it's done properly - and at 50p a spoke it might be worth getting the whole lot replaced tbfh.

 

[Stephenite]

Noticed that the kid across the road had only one brake working - the back one. Whilst he was at ours playing Roblox with our kid I had a look.

The cable bridge on the front v-brake had been forced open. I've never seen that before. So i just squeezed it back together with pliers, adjusted the tension on the brakes and put it back together.

I told his mum what I did, and just hope it lasts.

 

[Vantage]

Using the self extracting crank bolt to er...remove the cranks resulted in it cross threading the crank threads. The alloy outer nut had to be drilled either side to break it from the crank. Crank threads then had to be sort of fixed by screwing in and out the crank extractor tool. Both left and right cranks had this problem. Never buying self extractors again. They're crap.
Drilled a drainage hole in the bottom bracket shell and then refitted everything.
Prior to that load of malarkey I'd replaced pretty much every allen and torx bolt on the bike with shiny new stainless allen bolts. All matching

I swear I have ocd.

 

[Fifelad]

Put new headset bearings in on commuting road bike. Despite having done this before still managed to put the top one in the wrong way round. The bottom one (sealed bearings) managed to become unsealed. Shouldn’t be a problem as the separated bits of the bearing were forced together on tightening everything and loads of grease packing.

 

[BalkanExpress]

Fitted a left pedal yesterday, This was on the crankarm I had “kettled” to remove the stuck pedal the other day. The new pedal had screwed in okay, so I was hoping I had got away with it. Unfortunately not, I ended up picking the pedal up off the road and riding the last couple of km home one legged.

 

[si_c]

Tweaked the position of the FD as it had been annoyingly rubbing the chain. Nice and quiet on a brisk 15 miler to check.

 

[HLaB]

Changed the toe pad on my shoes but it wasn't as easy as I anticipated. The head of the screw holding the pad had worn. I managed to get the toe pad off leaving the screw but without the pad the screw and its nut just turned in unison. I applied a little oil, left it over night and came back to it 24hours later and managed to hold the screw tight whilst unscrewing it and removed it in the end in under a minute.

 

[Shut Up Legs]

After years of searching, I finally found a decent quality rear clip-on mudguard for my Specialized road bike, and have just installed it.

 

[Vantage]

Stuck some helicopter tape on the bike today. Its not perfect but better than the frame looking a mess within a year and keeps the decals from peeling off.
Did some bike fit fettling yesterday too but not been out to test it yet.

 

[CXRAndy]

Swapped racks on Wife's Ebike, we now have matching Topeak with bags

She can carry all the heavy stuff now

 

[Richard A Thackeray]

The rear mudguard started rattling slightly again on the local 'tarred & chipped' roads
It's split once & been repaired

However, now the little piece of plastic that I'd put in, to help protect the 'brake-bridge' from the cable tie, had slipped out of place
So, another cable tie, coupled with a sliced-up (multiple repairs) old inner-tube, wrapped around the 'b-b' have silenced it again!

 

[Richard A Thackeray]

Plus

The (sacrificial) toe-protector of my left (SPD) Sidi shoes, has broken off
Thankfully I found it by the side-gate
I've swapped sides, & put the relatively unworn right one to the left, as like most riders, that's the foot that invariably contacts the ground when stopped at traffic-lights, etc...
So, I've tried 'No Nails' to hold the damaged segment on

I've seen how much replacements are; about £10
I may consider lowering myself, by asking some of the f**tballists at work, if they have some old plastic screw-in studs
I believe they're the same thread, as I had a set of studs in a previous pair of shoes when I was racing CX