What Have You Fettled Today?

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BianchiVirgin

Über Member
Location
Norn Iron
Reassembled the rear end of my full susser today. I had the main frame away as a main pivot bolt broke, just above the BB, and left a seized stump inside the frame. Drilling and extractors didn't work so I had to get it to an engineering workshop to be drilled out and fitted with an M12 to M8 insert. First 'failure' in two and a half years so not bad in all I suppose. When I was at it I fitted a new bearing and bolt kit obviously. The workshop removed the old bearings and I pressed the new ones at home. All successfully reassembled and ready for a blast!
 

derrick

The Glue that binds us together.
A little tweak to the Di2 front derailier, went out the other night and chain fell of the outer ring, First adjustment in over a year, not sure why it needed it, but it's sorted know.
 

keithmac

Guru
A little tweak to the Di2 front derailier, went out the other night and chain fell of the outer ring, First adjustment in over a year, not sure why it needed it, but it's sorted know.

Do they have a limit screw or is it purely electronic?.
 

MahatmaAndhi

Well-Known Member
Location
Peterborough, UK
Had my latest folder up on the stand. I bought it second hand and when I got it home, I realised it was in much worse condition that I thought. Drivetrains and hubs are fairly new territory for me, so I was determined to do it myself. My last folder is still going strong, despite me doing the tinkering.
So I got a new 7-speed freewheel, derailleur, chain and shifter as well as inner and outer cables. But when I got it fitted, the wheel was stiff to turn as if the brakes were on.
Convinced that it was the axle, I took it to pieces, replaced the bearings and put a quick release axle in instead (Amazon Prime's same-day delivery has been rinced lately). Still stiff when I put it on.
Turns out I had the cups that hold the bearings in place on too tight. Now it's working okay. Put it down to experience for next time.

Anywho, now that's sorted, I had to reset the brake calliper positioning and index the gears. It's working - not perfectly, but working.
 
Fitted a 17 degree 100mm stem (previous was 6 degree) to raise bars by 7mm, taking into account that I also removed 5mm spacer.The saddle to bar drop is now 20mm and reach is 51.6cm. This is on my summer bike (Vitus Venon 2015) and yet to try. On an earlier posting ( A tale of two stems) I went back to 100mm from 90mm as I had issues with my shoulders/neck which was a lot better but not 100%, hence a 17 degree stem. This is also in the positive position and quite frankly looks OK. I know a lot would say that the bike is the wrong geometry and yes you`d be right. It has a 150mm head tube, and I love the bike and don`t feel ready to sell it My winter bike has a 17mm saddle to bar drop which is OK. I guess that I am just not as flexible as I once was, now 60. I sourced the 17 degree stem from ebay as the usual on line outfits were in my mind too expensive for something just to try. I of course may need a 110mm 17degree stem. We will see. I will post again when I have had a chance to try it out.

I tried out the new stem today on a 21.6 mile ride and it felt fine. I forgot to mention that the majority of my riding is in the drops, always has been. I just like the feel of my hands there, of course I do change to the hoods as I think that it is good for circulation and wards off numbness. Anyway, my back and neck and shoulders seemed fine so may be and I say may be, that I have found the solution. To be honest, when I am cycling and looking down at the stem I don`t notice the angle suffice to say perhaps the stem looks a little shorter. The reach feels right so would not need to go to a 110mm. I hope that this info helps others who may have similar issues.
17 degree stem.jpg
 

CXRAndy

Guru
Location
Lincs
Not bike related, but finished off installation of 3 metre electric awning with wireless communication to neighbours house.
 
I had a bit of a sweary fit earlier. I was just checking the bike I’ve recently upgraded to R7000 spec, to see what ( if anything ) needed a quick tweek here or a nip up there, and I noticed that as I turned the steering full lock to the right, the rear brake was coming on slightly. Ah, bugger, rookie mistake, I’d measured the outer cable distance from the brifter to the stop on the frame, with the bars straight. It was just too short, with the bars turned full lock right. So I cut a new longer piece of outer and popped it on. Double bugger, the inner isn’t long enough now. Ah well, I’ve got a new inner on next day delivery from good old Wiggle. Other than that, everything else is working just fine on this bike now. Then I turned my attention to the big old Boardman MX comp. I fitted a replacement BB a few weeks back ( a SRAM Power spline sealed cartridge ) and it suddenly started clicking quite loudly last week, when putting anything like decent powaaah down. So I got the cranks off, and checked the security / torque of the collars. They had worked themselves a bit loose, so I torqued them up a bit, put the cranks back on and tested it, it wasn’t clicking on seated efforts, but it was still clicking on standing efforts, so I repeated the previous procedure, and torqued the collars up a bit more. It was silent right up until I was really pushing in a high gear up hill, so I repeated the procedure yet again, and Torqued the collars until I nearly gave myself a hernia. That’s got it, silence is golden :laugh:. My next fettling effort will be to get the stuck seat post out of my old Boardman Pro Carbon roadie, then I’ll start looking at my old BSA.
 
Sounds like you have a full calendar, there, @Racing roadkill . Good luck with the carbon.
I’ve got to fit the Isle of Wight Randonee, a three day 270 mile challenge ride from Huddersfield to Southampton, the Ride London, and ( possibly ) another LEJOG as well, hence the reason for getting as many of my bikes in tip top condition as possible. The Power metered bike could do with a new chain and cassette as well, so that’s another job for the list.
 
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