What Have You Fettled Today?

[raleighnut]

Actually, I'm not sure what type of crank it's got...

The cranks and pedals seem to be integrated units that are fixed to the bottom bracket using hex head bolts. But the bolts are recessed into the cranks and there's not enough space around them to insert a socket or a spanner to facilitate removal.

14mm/9/16" socket should just fit, they're both 'normal' threads and then there is a thread on the inside of the recess that the extractor tool screws into, before screwing the tool in check there isn't a washer in there as using the extractor with one in there results in stripping the thread out of the crank DAMHIKT.

Then it depends which BB type you have and whether that is a serviceable unit or a cartridge (fit new) type, I would expect the former though.

 

[youngoldbloke]

- just a general point - in many posts seems a lot of confusion stems from the use of 'crank' to refer to not only the actual cranks (the 'arms' the pedals are attached to) but to the chainset as a whole, (or crankSET, if you must), or to just the chainrings. So the whole assembly is a chainset, composed of chainrings and cranks. This is attached (by various means) to the spindle in the bottom bracket assembly.

 

[KneesUp]

Looking at the photo you posted further up, I would guess they are bog standard square taper cranks. What kind of socket did you try to use to get at the nuts? The cranks look very similar to mine, and in mine a standard 14 socket just fits, then you use one of these
View attachment 404825
to extract the crank.

My sockets don't fit in the crank, but I have this exact tool, and the silver end has the correct size socket which does fit - if it it the same as mine then you can turn the silver part with a 16mm spanner. Then obviously attach the tool to the crank with the black end and wind it in to force the crank off.

And my fettling: I had my front derailleur off to clean a few days ago because it wouldn't spring far enough to get the inner ring of my triple, and for the past two days I've been putting up with a clicking noise when on the outer ring because I've put it on not quite straight, and the top limit lets it get slightly too far, so it's been brushing the crank. Straightened it last night and it seems ok today. I also took the jockey wheels out a few days ago to give them a good clean, greased everything and put it all back together and now it squeaks ever so slightly. It didn't before, so that's annoying!

 

[C R]

Emergency fettle this lunchtime to tighten the nut that holds the left crank which decided to loosen itself half way through my commute this morning. Tightened with a socket from work, still tight when I got home. Need to investigate to see why it happened.

 

[Reynard]

If you post a picture looking down on the bb/chainring, we will be able to see.

I'll snap one in the morning. Can't say tomorrow as it's already 2am

 

[Reynard]

A nice cable cutting tool to stop you getting frayed ends when fitting new cables .

I've got a good selections of nips already as I do a lot of craft-type stuff

 

[Reynard]

14mm/9/16" socket should just fit, they're both 'normal' threads and then there is a thread on the inside of the recess that the extractor tool screws into, before screwing the tool in check there isn't a washer in there as using the extractor with one in there results in stripping the thread out of the crank DAMHIKT.

Then it depends which BB type you have and whether that is a serviceable unit or a cartridge (fit new) type, I would expect the former though.

In theory, yes, that should fit. But the bolts are recessed into the cranks and the recess is too narrow for the socket.

 

[C R]

In theory, yes, that should fit. But the bolts are recessed into the cranks and the recess is too narrow for the socket.

As @KneesUp said, possibly the crank extractor socket will have a thinner wall and will fit ok. You could just get one to check, they aren't expensive.

 

[raleighnut]

In theory, yes, that should fit. But the bolts are recessed into the cranks and the recess is too narrow for the socket.

Or the socket is too big for the recess.

 

[Salty seadog]

I'm in the bath so have guess.

Later however it'll be getting into the front hub of the knock about mtb.

 

[GuyBoden]

With the Summer weather, I'll be riding the Summer bike.

So, I cleaned and checked the bike for any problems.

Greased the BB, steering, and wheel's loose bearings.

Checked the tyres, inner tubes and valves.

Checked the wheels for tru, straightened them a touch.

Cleaned the wheel rims and checked the brakes.

Changed the friction shifters (again), added a new gear cable.

Changed the Crank to a 48-38-28 Triple.

New cassette to 12- 28

New Chain.

Oiled and ready to go.

It rides very well.

 

[raleighnut]

I finally got round to fitting the matching rear tyre to the rear of the Equipe. I'd had it in the shed for 4yrs but having really struggled to get the front on I had left the old 28mm Schwalbe 'Delta Cruiser' on the rear.

The front had developed a slow puncture so I set to getting it off and it wasn't as bad as I'd thought it'd be (it seemed to have 'loosened up' with a bit of mileage on it) and went back on OK so right I thought I'll fit the rear and again a bit of a struggle but plenty of talc and it's on. I have however found a tyre more difficult to fit than a Marathon, they're Continental Super Sport Plus with the 'anti puncture belt' in 700c x 25mm although TBF it could be the rims which don't seem to have much of a 'well' in them.

 

[Reynard]

If you post a picture looking down on the bb/chainring, we will be able to see.

OK, right... Here goes.

Top view

Drive side

Non-drive side

As you can see, the bike's a real beat-up old clunker - which makes it perfect for practicing on. Also need to work out why the rear wheel wobbles like a blancmange...

 

[C R]

OK, right... Here goes.

Top view
View attachment 405080

Drive side
View attachment 405081

Non-drive side
View attachment 405082

As you can see, the bike's a real beat-up old clunker - which makes it perfect for practicing on. Also need to work out why the rear wheel wobbles like a blancmange...

The bottom bracket is a cup and cone square taper. Should be fairly easy to service.

As to the wheel wobble, does the wheel rattle in the axle, which would be straightforward to adjust, or is it just moving side to side with respect to the chainstays but is not rattling the axle?

 

[Reynard]

The bottom bracket is a cup and cone square taper. Should be fairly easy to service.

As to the wheel wobble, does the wheel rattle in the axle, which would be straightforward to adjust, or is it just moving side to side with respect to the chainstays but is not rattling the axle?

Cheers. That's one headache less. And now I know what tools to get for that as well.

Axle is properly seated in the dropouts and the bolts fastened nice and tight, but the wheel's got a generous half inch of play from side to side.