What have I done....

[stuarttunstall]

Oh yeah, take the orange label off (careful not to get greasy fingers in the rotor), you wouldn't wear clothes with the tags still on would you?

Funny enough I keep thinking that lol

 

[Pale Rider]

I live on the Yorkshire Wolds, at the top of Garrowby Hill...

When I did this it was not a major hill, it was just that it was very long downward slope...

Puts a slightly different complexion on it, but the same applies as regards firm braking/release and repeat.

If the decline is long but not steep you can also deploy your air brake - deliberately sit upright, presenting as big a surface area to the front as possible.

The extra resistance will mean you will need to use the bike brakes less.

Shimano hydraulic discs, even budget ones, are usually excellent, so you have plenty of braking power for the job.

Grease or glaze on the rotor will reduce performance.

Dirt can be your friend here, a blast along a cinder or gravel track will put enough abrasive material on the discs to degrease them just by using the brakes normally.

Saves you having to do it with brake cleaner or emery cloth.

 

[Smokin Joe]

Looks no worse than a wheel rim used with caliper brakes. I wouldn't worry, braking surfaces will always show signs of use.

 

[Jody]

The disc looks fine. Normally an overheated disc will turn all shades of blue and purple. If your brake still works as intended then just keep going.

Just make sure you don't drag the brake lightly for a whole descent as that's what sometimes causes issues. Saying that there were long periods of dragging my brake when I came down Snowdon and they still didn't go blue. That descent took about 20-25 minutes if I remember correctly.

 

[stuarttunstall]

The disc looks fine. Normally an overheated disc will turn all shades of blue and purple. If your brake still works as intended then just keep going.

Just make sure you don't drag the brake lightly for a whole descent as that's what sometimes causes issues. Saying that there were long periods of dragging my brake when I came down Snowdon and they still didn't go blue. That descent took about 20-25 minutes if I remember correctly.

I think that is what I did for quite a while so looking at it I think it is more pad material than getting very hot or warm..

 

[Ajax Bay]

I've no experience with disc brakes,
it will probably wear shiny again

On what basis, other than intuition, do you think that?

 

[DCBassman]

None whatsoever!

 

[stuarttunstall]

I’m not even sure there’s anything that seems wrong with the rotors unless I am missing something. They will wear and also it you will have a film of brake pad residue on the rotor. It all helps with the breaking in process and ultimately keeps the brakes quiet and efficient. personally I would leave the pads alone and see how you go. I have ‘interfered’ too early in the past and made things worse.

The only thing I would say is find another position to put your front quick release lever. It sometimes doesn’t close properly if it against the fork or frame and it is also harder to get your fingers behind it to release it.

EDIT: To add, my Shimano rotors are shiny like yours in comparison to my Avid and TRP rotors which look more matt (my description) Seems normal.

You were right about the lever, I had the misfortune to get a puncture already this morning with a small, sharp triangle stone stuck in the tyre so walked about a mile home rather than fix at the road side... good job, it would have been a nightmare to open the lever, used a cloth on the forks to pad it and a lever to pull it out... now locked back in a different position so I can get my fingers/hand behind it

On a plus I can still remember how to fix a puncture lol