What Does "Tubeless Ready" Mean?

[SkipdiverJohn]

My main concern with the road bike is the snakebite puncture which I believe "going tubeless" negates.

It won't stop you taking a chunk out of your tyre casing if you whack it hard enough on the edge of a pothole or road ironwork no matter what. I doubt your factory-fit tyres are super robust either. Boardmans seem to favour narrow sections and minimal clearances.
My idea of trouble-free tyres is Schwalbe Marathons in the biggest size I have good frame/mudguard clearance for, and inner tubes.

 

[rivers]

Why is tubeless better? Not something I would ever consider on my tourer but surely puncture means your buggered and can't just quickly switch an inner tube and be on your way.

If you do get a puncture that won't seal on a tubeless tyre, just pop in an innertube or a plug. It might get a little messy, but it's not the end of the world

 

[PaulSB]

Lots of thorns on country lanes round me so running tubeless now on road bike or should I say opted for it from manufacturer. Always run tubeless on MTB. Which plug kit do you carry Paul ?

This is my plug kit from Dynaplug. Not the cheapest by a long way but I like that it is metal, compact and the plugs are protected. I'm on a road bike and the very fat bullet shaped plug (top end) is for MTBs. I carry it simply as it came with the kit and if I should suffer a huge hole/rip it could be useful. I carry five plugs like the one shown separately. The two caps obviously protect the plugs.

I've used it twice with real success. A thousand times easier than wrestling with a tube. My only criticism is I would like it to have internal storage for spare plugs.

Cheaper ones tend to be larger and plastic. I wouldn't want to risk plastic snapping on me.

I have once put a tube in a tubeless. It was a nightmare. Gash of about 0.75cm in side wall. Very difficult to get the tyre off, insert tube and boot and then replace tyre. I was tired, it was raining and my hands covered in wet, slimy sealant. Only four miles from home, I nearly walked carrying the bike!!! Probably quicker.

Highly recommend carrying this or similar. I've continued to ride a tyre with two plugs in it until the tyre was worn out.

 

[andrew_s]

What're your thoughts on filling regular tubes with Sealant?
I don't have any tubeless-ready rims & have no intention of getting any unless I bought a new bike which will never happen!
I am however thinking of using a sealant in the current tubes. (Current Presta removable valves)

Sealant doesn't generally work nearly as well in tubes as well as it does in tubeless tyres, basically because a tube is stretched inside the tyre, meaning that the puncturing object doesn't mostly plug the hole like it does in a tyre, meaning the sealant has more to do.
It will work best if the tube is somewhat oversized relative to the tyre (such a 700x32-40 tube in a 700x28 tyre), so the tube isn't stretched much.


I'm sticking with tubes for now. Changing would mean new wheels, and I don't find the occasional puncture more than a minor annoyance.

I would comment that "just put a tube in" for a major cut in a tubeless set up is likely to prove to be the voice of optimism. You won't be used to putting tubes in, and there's a fair chance that you'll have failed to carry something that turns out to be necessary, such as a boot for the cut, or a pair of pliers to get the tubeless valve out. I'd also comment that there will likely be a number of pointy objects in the tyre that sealed without being noticed, but which will still puncture a tube. You'll have to get them out before putting the tube in.

 

[Ridgeway]

You may be lucky and also find that the rims are already taped if being called TL ready.

It can be a bit of a faff to get it set up but worth it if you enjoy avoiding punctures, running lower pressures and having a nicer riding experience.

Got a new set of rims to set up within next few weeks but i know they will be a pain to mount the tyres, but they will only be coming off once they are worn out, after all why else would you take a tyre off

 

[weareHKR]

I've researched the tubes with slime already inside, I'm not convinced by the reviews they they are any good really!

 

[SheilaH]

I would comment that "just put a tube in" for a major cut in a tubeless set up is likely to prove to be the voice of optimism. You won't be used to putting tubes in, and there's a fair chance that you'll have failed to carry something that turns out to be necessary, such as a boot for the cut, or a pair of pliers to get the tubeless valve out. I'd also comment that there will likely be a number of pointy objects in the tyre that sealed without being noticed, but which will still puncture a tube. You'll have to get them out before putting the tube in.

A touch pessimistic, I feel, and I note that you don't appear to be speaking from experience here.

I'm familiar with those counter-points. Some are correct, but also apply to tubed tyres, others don't converge with reality.

If you have a cut large enough to not seal, yes, you will need a tyre boot. If you have the same sized cut on a non-tubeless tyre then guess what...you will also need a tyre boot. Not sure what the "you won't be used to putting tyres in" is supposed to refer to. Its a touch patronising.
Anyone here not used to putting tubes in? Hmmmm...silence.

You might have to contend with a tighter tyre/rim interface, but then you will know about that already from mounting the tyre in the first place and you will make sure your tyre levers are resilient and not brittle.

Tight valve? Yes, can happen if you continually tighten the valve. Rookie error, but many of us carry mini-pliers.

Pointy objects in tyre? This is a new one to me. Not seen it myself, having removed many a tubeless tyre, but yes, just as with tubed tyres you have to check the tyre for foreign bodies. You have the likelihood of sealant residue in the tyre which you won't have in a tubed tyre, so a little extra care needs to be taken to avoid getting messy.

 

[Lookrider]

Sealant doesn't generally work nearly as well in tubes as well as it does in tubeless tyres, basically because a tube is stretched inside the tyre, meaning that the puncturing object doesn't mostly plug the hole like it does in a tyre, meaning the sealant has more to do.
It will work best if the tube is somewhat oversized relative to the tyre (such a 700x32-40 tube in a 700x28 tyre), so the tube isn't stretched much.


I'm sticking with tubes for now. Changing would mean new wheels, and I don't find the occasional puncture more than a minor annoyance.

I would comment that "just put a tube in" for a major cut in a tubeless set up is likely to prove to be the voice of optimism. You won't be used to putting tubes in, and there's a fair chance that you'll have failed to carry something that turns out to be necessary, such as a boot for the cut, or a pair of pliers to get the tubeless valve out. I'd also comment that there will likely be a number of pointy objects in the tyre that sealed without being noticed, but which will still puncture a tube. You'll have to get them out before putting the tube in.

You are correct in that you need a couple of tools to carry as well
A valve "spanner " is usually on a spoke key on a lot of multi tools ...obviously tools vary but my lever on tbe chain breaker part of multi tool has the spoke keys slots and valve slots ...maybe like me people were unaware of this as it's not routine to remove a valve
Failing that you can get these valve caps to go on the wheels to which they have a slot in them to remove the valve core ...a very hand cap permanently on the bike so you not carry it nor will you ever forget or loose it
And if you think they are expensive ..they come in 2s so go 50/50 with a mate

https://www.tweekscycles.com/granite-design-juicy-nipple-valve-cap-with-core-removal-tool-2012360/

 

[SheilaH]

I don't think Andrew is refering to the valve inner. He means the whole valve. He is right in that it needs to be removed to fit a tube, and that if people constantly tighten then they can be quite hard to get off with fingers.

 

[Ming the Merciless]

Don’t you just love people offering advice that isn’t based on experience. Bit like a 12 year old advising their parents on how to drive 😂

 

[SheilaH]

It is one of those divisive issues in cycling, like disc brakes and DI2. Some people seem to hold them to a higher standard when judging them (always the non-users) than they do their own conventional kit. You get it with DI2 when they say " yes, but if the battery goes flat you are stranded". Well you aren't. You are stuck in one gear. Admittedly if you have a gear cable snap you are stuck in 2 gears. The difference being that charging your battery will prevent a flat battery, but the only way to prevent a snapped cable is by frequent removal and inspection. I've had snapped cables on quite a few occasions (design flaw in 5800 series STI) but never had a flat battery

Seems to be an age thing. The sceptics, IME, tend to be male, at least mid-50s, and steel bike users.

 

[weareHKR]

Seems to be an age thing. The sceptics, IME, tend to be male, at least mid-50s, and steel bike users.

Hello... ☝

I'm looking forward to seeing how much of the endless stuff that I've filled my head with while researching this project turns out to be true,

I'm still at the filling my head stage!
Also waiting with interest in how it works out for you!

 

[SheilaH]

Applies to neither of you because neither of you are sceptics

 

[Pale Rider]

Before this gets more locked than a jammed chain...

From experience, I can say breaking the bead seal of a tubeless ready rim can be difficult, irrespective of whether it has a tube in or not.

I was stuck in the middle of nowhere in Yorkshire for an hour or so struggling to break the bead on a punctured tyre.

Got there eventually, at the cost of a few scratches on the black alloy rim.

I now run tubeless, but also carry a stubby piece of wood to bear down on the tyre to break the seal.

 

[PaulSB]

@Tripster I thought you might be interested in today. I punctured 3-400 yards from the top of a tough 1.5 mile climb. Front wheel and I could see sealant spurting out like a Catherine Wheel. I had seen glass in the road but only at the last moment. I had a car directly behind me so a swerve outwards wasn't an option.

I decided to continue climbing the hill and see if it sealed. At the top of the climb the sealant had stopped spewing out but close inspection showed moisture on the tyre was bubbling a little. I decided to plug. The whole operation took five minutes, plug, inflate, pack up, ride away. My buddy hadn't seen this before he was impressed.

My only difficulty was I didn't have glasses with me which made finding the hole tricky.

There was a comment about "pointy things" in tubeless tyres. I replaced a set summer 2020. On close inspection inside the rear tyre I found seven sealed holes which would have resulted in punctures on a tubed tyre. No pointy things in evidence.

There is a downside to tubeless. Installing a tube in rain will leave you covered in wet, slimy sealant and putting the tyre back on under these conditions is very difficult. I've had to do this once. This is why I now carry plugs.