What can I do to rescue my bike?! (general maintenance question)

[mrfacetious]

Hi guys, long time no post.
It slowly but surely dawned on me (shortly after I realised GT85 wasn't really an acceptable chain lube) that I wasn't looking after my bike properly at the start of the summer. Initially (for months) after owning it I didn't really lube the chain at all, and when I did, as I said, GT85 (shudder). I took it into the RBS (That's "Regional" Bike Shop, the LBS owner is on my black-list) 25 miles away at the start of the summer for a service and they pointed out the following:
1: my headset was shot (£55 to replace.... grrr...). This is probably due to that half a millimetre of play in the forks that I chose to ignore like an idiot.
2: My gears were changing very slowly and sloppily - this is the main reason I took it in. They lubed the chain and advised I changed the cables. If that didn't work they suggested changing the derailleurs.

Now I have since wisened up, bought myself a copy of Zinn, a chain cleaning kit, a toolbox which I slowly filled, and I want to put things right.

So here's my question: I changed the cables. This did little for the transmission speed. Do I really have to change the derailleurs? Can I not just replace the jockey wheel and spring or whatever and start a fresh? Also am I going to have to change the chain after nearly 2 years of neglect? They didn't mention it in the shop but I'm thinking if I want to start over that would be a good place to begin.

So what's it to be? New front and rear mechs and chain on the Christmas list? or the odd replacement part, a note-to-self to be more careful and a slap on the wrist?
Any help appreciated, but it would be nice for my shiny bike to wow me again like it did when I first got it.

(Oh and bonus points if anybody can tell me how to avoid overloading my bike? I can fit all my gear for overnight rides into two panniers but I don't have fittings for a front rack and don't want to snap my spokes all over the place - cheers!)

 

[lukesdad]

Id change the chain before the mechs myself.

 

[Svendo]

Id change the chain before the mechs myself.

And possibly the cassette as well, if the worn chain has worn that too. Easy to tell as new chain will slip on a worn cassette.

 

[henshaw11]

For a start, perhaps a chain-checker tool from CRC or otherwise - get one that measures 0.75% and 1% elongation. If your chain's reached 1% it'll be new chain *and* cassette (probably chainrings too, or at least the one you use most). If your chain's 0.75 or below - should be able to put on a new chain without any problem. A new chain on chainrings and/or cassette that are too worn will just result in the chain skipping.

The mechs are most likely ok but would probably benefit from a clean/lube - if the jockey wheels are looking a bit pointed then it's probably worth replacing them or getting a new mech, depending on the relative price. There's a couple of allen screw that hold the mech cage/jockeys together, undo those and you can clean/relube the jockey wheels (probably not the lower one 'cos it's a quite likely a sealed bearing, but the upper one's probably a plain steel or ceramic bushing).

Re chains - check out the 'mickle method' - basically wipe/lube/(wipe/lube/)wipe - the chain retains a minimum of lube so doesn't get very dirty, and you wipe the accumulated dirt off (eg old cloth - babywipes, since I had a stash - seem to work well and don't fall apart like kitchen roll), And you don't actualy have to clean all teh grease from the chain, the new lube helps carry the cruf off when you wipe.
I tried it for the first time a while back, and it's the cleanest my chain's been for any duration.

I find I have to run wd40 through the gear outers from time-to time - a bit easier on a bike with partial outer runs, but on my recumbent with a continuous outer I've bought an in-cable oiler (an ally lump with a hole in it that joins runs of outer) so I can get some gt85/wd40 in more easily.

 

[cyberknight]

1: my headset was shot (£55 to replace.... grrr...). This is probably due to that half a millimetre of play in the forks that I chose to ignore like an idiot.

Whats it made of gold? my LBS charged me £20+ £5 labour


2: My gears were changing very slowly and sloppily - this is the main reason I took it in. They lubed the chain and advised I changed the cables. If that didn't work they suggested changing the derailleurs.

Derailleurs do wear out but from the above cost i would say buy one yourself and fit it as they are not to expensive dependent on what you have, i did one in about 20 minutes and i took the jockey wheels out to avoid breaking the chain.Did you replace the cable outers as well as they can cause problems if they are old even with new cables?

Now I have since wisened up, bought myself a copy of Zinn, a chain cleaning kit, a toolbox which I slowly filled, and I want to put things right.

So here's my question: I changed the cables. This did little for the transmission speed. Do I really have to change the derailleurs? Can I not just replace the jockey wheel and spring or whatever and start a fresh? Also am I going to have to change the chain after nearly 2 years of neglect? They didn't mention it in the shop but I'm thinking if I want to start over that would be a good place to begin.

So what's it to be? New front and rear mechs and chain on the Christmas list? or the odd replacement part, a note-to-self to be more careful and a slap on the wrist?
Any help appreciated, but it would be nice for my shiny bike to wow me again like it did when I first got it.

(Oh and bonus points if anybody can tell me how to avoid overloading my bike? I can fit all my gear for overnight rides into two panniers but I don't have fittings for a front rack and don't want to snap my spokes all over the place - cheers!)

 

[mickle]

What bike do you have and which model of derailleurs do you have?

 

[doog]

You could go for a clean sweep.
Buy a new chain , cassette and chainset. You will be surprised at how cheap you can get if all for. Jockey wheels may be worn but cost nothing. £60 for the lot on some sites

At least then you know everything is new and you can keep it tip top afterwards.

 

[biggs682]

make a fresh start and replace all the running gear and then maintain to avoid it again , or you could repllace chain to start with along with jockey wheels and see what differance they make , if no differance leave till after winter riding then start a fresh .

 

[mrfacetious]

Hey guys,
As was pointed out - was not impressed with the charge and am not going there again. My disillusionment with the bike shops of south wales has led me to teach myself how to do things from now on. I wouldn't have any issue changing chainrings, mechs or the chain.

The set up is:
Dura Ace chain
105 front mech
Ultegra rear mech
The bike is a custom build around this frame:
http://www.cyclesuperstore.ie/shop/pc/catalog/medium/ARTR.jpg

So I'm pretty sure I couldn't replace the set for £60 : \ though if I could that would be great, of course!

Oh and I used to use mickle before I got the chain cleaner but I must have been doing it wrong because I've never seen my chain so clean as after I used the cleaner.

The chainrings do /look/ alright - would chain wear really have killed them (remember the shop didn't even mention chain wear, though I will check)? My temptation was to replace all the parts at once but it seems like the general consensus is to replace them a part at a time until the problem is eliminated - if I buy used am I likely to just put myself in the same position? I don't like the idea of a brand new Ultegra rear mech....

The chain doesn't slip, it's just very slow to change. Sometimes the levers need a couple of clicks to move it or it doesn't respond to a shift.

 

[Norm]

Bearing in mind that I am a tightwad, I wouldn't change anything just yet. Other than your maintenance habits on a bike which has (had?) got some seriously lush components, for which you should be slapped with a wet halibut.

Anyway, the slow changing could be down to shite on the springs and around the pivots. I'd pull the derailleurs off the bike, strip them back as much as you feel confident doing, clean and lube / grease (especially the jockey wheels) as much as you can and then put it back together.

Chain cleaners are great (IMO!) but they clean out all of the lube as well as they clean off the crud, so make sure that you lubricate each pivot of each link of the chain. And not on the outside plates, either, lube is only needed on the parts which move so those are the parts which you need to get lube onto.

 

[mrfacetious]

I am also a tight-wad. Hence my terrible maintenance habits - my naive self did not realise the serious false economy I was letting myself into. I'll pull the derailleur apart and grease it up a bit. If that makes no difference I'll check for chain-wear and then hopefully some inexpensive replacements will lead to smooth shifting again, though I accept in the worst case I may have to go nuclear and remortgage for a new set.

 

[HovR]

The chain doesn't slip, it's just very slow to change. Sometimes the levers need a couple of clicks to move it or it doesn't respond to a shift.

Sounds like there could be an issue with the indexing - This can cause slow gear changes, or it just may not change gear with one shift like it should.


You may find this helpful: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html

If you scroll down the page just past the diagram of the derailleur, you will find some information on indexing adjustment.

This fixed a similar issue on my MTB, hopefully it will work for you!

 

[subaqua]

http://techdocs.shimano.com/techdocs/index.jsp

is a great place for info on setting up and troubleshooting your mechs.

 

[cyberknight]

Hey guys,
As was pointed out - was not impressed with the charge and am not going there again. My disillusionment with the bike shops of south wales has led me to teach myself how to do things from now on. I wouldn't have any issue changing chainrings, mechs or the chain.

The set up is:
Dura Ace chain
105 front mech
Ultegra rear mech
The bike is a custom build around this frame:
http://www.cyclesupe...medium/ARTR.jpg

So I'm pretty sure I couldn't replace the set for £60 : \ though if I could that would be great, of course!

Oh and I used to use mickle before I got the chain cleaner but I must have been doing it wrong because I've never seen my chain so clean as after I used the cleaner.

The chainrings do /look/ alright - would chain wear really have killed them (remember the shop didn't even mention chain wear, though I will check)? My temptation was to replace all the parts at once but it seems like the general consensus is to replace them a part at a time until the problem is eliminated - if I buy used am I likely to just put myself in the same position? I don't like the idea of a brand new Ultegra rear mech....

The chain doesn't slip, it's just very slow to change. Sometimes the levers need a couple of clicks to move it or it doesn't respond to a shift.

A quick google gives me £100 for the above parts just by looking at the highlighted list without doing an in depth search so you would be looking at a lot less, as norm says i would giving the parts a good clean and lube before you spend any money.
Check if the cables are changing tension to try and work out where the problem is.

 

[cyberknight]

After a re read of the OP ...

How many miles do you think you have done?

2 years out of a chain and cassette is good going and could be the cause...(pasted from bicyclemania)

"though it's called chain stretching, your chain doesn't actually lengthen. The pins and bushings wear away, which increases the distance between the pins. When this happens the chain will not sit right on the cogs and chain-rings. The signs of a worn chain are slow and imprecise shifts, noisy operation and a rough pedalling feel. Lubeing will not fix it, time for a new chain."