what are these press studs and wires for

[roadrash]

my mudguards for the cx bike arrived from ebay an hour ago , when I unpacked them I found four lengths of wire with press studs attatched, there are also studs on the mudguards, what are they for,???? no destructions on the packaging ??

 

[Yellow Saddle]

Perhaps they are for delivering power to your rear light. Some mudguards have metallic strips in them for this purpose but if they are not properly grounded, cannot work. Those are probably grounding cables.

 

[roadrash]

every days a school day on cyclechat , yes there is a strip running the length of the mudguard, thank you @Dogtrousers and @Yellow Saddle

not that I need them though

 

[roadrash]

if anyone else wants them let me know

 

[Drago]

Perhaps they are for delivering power to your rear light. Some mudguards have metallic strips in them for this purpose but if they are not properly grounded, cannot work. Those are probably grounding cables.

Aye laddie, power to the rear light of my Saracen goes via these and through the mudguard, the ground being through the light mounting onto the rack.

 

[roadrash]

Can I have the conducting strip to go with them as well?

now you would have asked before I fitted them...............

 

[Yellow Saddle]

Aye laddie, power to the rear light of my Saracen goes via these and through the mudguard, the ground being through the light mounting onto the rack.

Of course, your are right. Your knowledge of bipedal electrics is better grounded than mine.

 

[Yellow Saddle]

I've just taken delivery of a dynohub and lights and installation is proving to be a monstrous PITA, requiring extensive research, having been supplied only with some scant instructions, mostly in German, and a billion tiny parts some of which are vital and some are surplus to requirements. The only reason I was able to reply was because I'd just been reading up on the subject, and had just read a piece on mudguards with conductive strips.

Incidentally I don't think frame ground is used much these days. Most dynamos seem to feed power out through two core wires to plastic bodied lights that aren't grounded to the frame. But I could be wrong because this is a baffling subject that is doing my head in.

Post a few photos. I'm sure we can work it out. Mine is simple. Two wires coming out of the dynamo - AC. That goes to the headlight via a little plug at the dynamo's two electric connectors. If you have the optional rear light version, two wires come out of the front light to go to the rear. If you have one of those USB gadgets, then it gets a bit more complicated but mostly mechanically, not 'lectrically.

 

[Pro Tour Punditry]

nipple tassles with matching bollock tassles

 

[Drago]

I wrapped the cable around the brake cable outer.

 

[Yellow Saddle]

I think I've got it sorted now, thanks. Just for fun, here's what I'll be doing:

Shimano Dynamo output labelled "earth" -> B&M Front light in labelled "-"
Shimano Dynamo output labelled nothing -> B&M Front light in labelled "+"
B&M Front light out labelled "+" -> B&M Rear light in labelled "+"
B&M Front light out labelled "-" -> B&M Rear light in labelled "-"
The USB gubbins is integrated with the front light, thank goodness.

Put like that it seems deceptively simple, but it's taken a LOT of web searching to get to this point. I must have read a hundred forum posts wittering on about cabling. The kit comes with lots and lots of bits and pieces some of which are needed, and some are for use only for other kinds of dynamo. I think I have finally identified all the required/non required bits. I'm now worried that when I fit the lamp behind the front brake the fork crown bolt is going to need a longer replacement. But I haven't got to trying that out yet.

Next task will be figuring out the optimal cable routing that doesn't look too horrible (along the top tube probably). And then wrapping my frame in miles of insulating tape and making it look horrible. Then cutting the wires too short and having to go and buy new ones (probably).

For elegance I use a battery rear light. I disabled the rear light junction inside the front light. To make the fork connections elegant and to avoid tape and wires, I drilled a hole in the fork crown and just above the right drop-out. The cabling is all internal. Super slick.

I'll take a photo tomorrow and post it. You may want to see what I have done to make it all work with the front brake bolt too. Quite complicated. SJS Cycles have all the bits necessary for that job.

 

[Yellow Saddle]

OK, here it is.

View of the bike from the right. That's the fork, obviously or not, with the front brake off to the left and the mudguard to the right behind the fork.

From left to right: Brake with Shimano knurled nut. Black light mount. Three thick washers and then I get a bit fuzzy. I can't remember what's inside but IIRC it is an extra long nut that puts the threaded end right up against the brake side of the fork so that there is good thread engagement with the front brake mount bolt. Then, on the other side of the fork, I have an extender nut to give me clearance so that the mudguard mount doesn't touch the headset cup. Both the nut and extender is from SJS. If you can't find what it on SJS' website, I'll dig through my old purchases. Let me know.

You may not need the extender for mudguard clearance, depending on your bike.

Here's a shot of where my light cable enters the fork crown. The hole is behind the crown, on the right. Shot is taken from top down.

I couldn't get the camera to show the bottom hole above the drop-out lug. One too many bikes in the way. But you get the idea.

Here's the ultra-elegant cover for the aperture that served the rear light cable. I removed the cable and stuck a piece of insulation tape over the hole. It's at the bottom, so you can't see it. One day I'll put some clear tape over it.

 

[Yellow Saddle]

@Yellow Saddle wow that's all super elegant. Too elegant for a duck tape merchant like me.

For now I just want to get it all working.

The stiffness and notchiness of the dynohub is much more than I expected. But once it's all together with me sat on top I don't suppose it will make much difference. Maybe add a few minutes on to my all day rides.

Yes, they do feel notchy. However, it adds nothing to your ride. You will not feel it.