What is the best way to take delivery of a new bike from the shop after purchase, checking for issues

[ontodva]

I am seeking advice from UK cyclists.

I am going to collect a new rigid frame hybrid bike I bought online from a multiple outlet bike retailer from the store.

How do I check it is set up correctly when I collect it? It comes with a SRAM 1x12 gear system of 40T chainring and 10-52T cassette. For instance, reviews mention the importance of setting the b gap by use of the SRAM measuring tool. How can I tell if the b gap is correctly set? What other potential setup issues should I look out for?

I mention the relatively obscure b gap as it is highlighted in reviews and if the bike shifts subtly poorly because of the wrong b gap it will just stay like that and give me a worse ride every time, but I won't know it.

My other question is about when I am deemed by the shop or the law – preferably the shop – to have accepted the bike. It is paid for, bought online. I want to have a test ride out of and back to the shop before accepting the bike. And I want the shop to take back the bike and refund me if I reject it.

The general question is – what is the best way to take delivery of a new bike from the shop after purchase?

 

[Jameshow]

View: https://youtu.be/Tj-jDKuz5z0?si=up2GRlNFSH9ZD4Vm


Take it for a spin around the store check the brakes and then the gears that they are running and changing smoothly

 

[Paulus]

Hold the handlebars, put the front brake on and rock the bike back and forth to check there is no movement in the headset. If there is it will manifest itself as a clonk or excessive movement.
Check that the wheels are true by spinning them and observing them, and check the wheelnuts/QR skewers or through axles are done up correctly.

 

[Paulus]

And, don't laugh but check the front fork is fitted the right way round.
We have seen photographic evidence on CC of bikes that have been delivered with the fork fitted incorrectly.

 

[silva]

New or repaired it doesn't matter, always check the bike before "accepting".
I learnt that the hard way, dealer delivering the spare bike home, just stalling it, then months later, other bike = problem, take the spare, oh, problem, result no bike, a story that repeated until intolerance.
And it proved enough times to be needed.
With 2 occasions just plain ridiculous, just walking the bike to the shops exit and oh alot play on rear wheel, cause turned out to be a ball too much in the bearing, and second case, a longer steerer tube that should have avoided knees getting in the way of handlebar, which disengaged on the roads first next speed limiting bump. Ouch nothing to hold / steere anymore and ouch where are the brake levers - I went diagonally between two passing cars and a hedge stopped me. Walked back and he couldn't even fix the problem - he had to mount back the old steering tube, ending where it begun. I got my money back and that was it.
And guess what, the replacing tube turned out to be one from the rear position of a tandem, that had been lingering in his stock for a while. You think you get a new and dedicated (= right for the job) part but you get a part with specs wrong enough to cause trouble.

But you said it's a new bike, no legal guarantee? If guarantee, you have time to find out if it has problems, and their solving should come at no cost withing the guaranteed term.
And even if no legal guarantee, you can always tell the truth publicly, which may prevent others buying there, which means losing potential customers - which is a non legal way to force sellers to not sell crap.

 

[All uphill]

By being aware that you need to ensure your new bike is 100% before riding away you are already a big step ahead of most customers.

I check bikes front to back, looking for scratches and poorly functioning bearings and brakes. Take it for a short ride or get the shop to demonstrate all the gears with the bike on a stand.

 

[MichaelW2]

I like to "ping" the spokes. The wheel may be true but if one spoke is very low or high tension, the trueness wont last.