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Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
I decided to give it a thorough clean and replace a sticking gear cable
Besides cleaning the OP's reason for giving the bike attention was to sort a "sticking gear cable". It may be sticking because just a strand or two of the cable(s) has parted and that's making the friction even greater. And without addressing that (ie just carrying on letting the cable(s) run against the steel bottom bracket shell) it'll return as an issue, to the detriment of smooth shifting. I'd second @raleighnut 's suggestion of running each cable through an outer (especially the FD cable - it's under more tension to get up onto the big ring). This short section of cable doesn't have to be 'stopped' anywhere. Each (of two) section(s) of outer can be secured in place with a ziptie round the rusty strip of metal between the two holes.
The OP "doesn’t think there’s room to sleeve the cables". I disagree and can't see why that might be an issue.
It would probably have to be replaced reasonably often (?4000km?) as the cable will abrade the lining of the outer, but the interval can be established through experience. HTH
 
OP
OP
newfhouse

newfhouse

Resolutely on topic
It may be sticking because just a strand or two of the cable(s) has parted and that's making the friction even greater. And without addressing that (ie just carrying on letting the cable(s) run against the steel bottom bracket shell) it'll return as an issue, to the detriment of smooth shifting.
Yes, that’s exactly what the problem was. The r/d cable had frayed and the f/d had rusted and stiffened where it had formed a groove in the bb.
The OP "doesn’t think there’s room to sleeve the cables". I disagree and can't see why that might be an issue.
There’s no room under the existing cable guides but I can probably make something to fit in the way you suggest.
Yes, it does help. Thanks.
 
OP
OP
newfhouse

newfhouse

Resolutely on topic
It’s a very pretty bike and I enjoy riding it despite the aggressive gearing, but it’s not a Condor, its a Pearson.
1228B19D-9BA7-4D12-8C6E-C2CFFD5E83CA.jpeg
 

raleighnut

Legendary Member
Yes, that’s exactly what the problem was. The r/d cable had frayed and the f/d had rusted and stiffened where it had formed a groove in the bb.

There’s no room under the existing cable guides but I can probably make something to fit in the way you suggest.

Yes, it does help. Thanks.
Pull a short length of 'liner' tube out of a cable and use that.
 

Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
It’s a very pretty bike and I enjoy riding it despite the aggressive gearing, . . . its a Pearson.
You could make the gearing a little (12%) more benign by replacing the block with a 14-28 (think it's a 14-25 on there now) - inexpensive.
And when you replace the RD cable (and outer), I suggest you make the outer loop (going from the chainstay round to the RD) a tad larger in radius to minimise friction.
 

Paul_Smith SRCC

www.plsmith.co.uk
Location
Surrey UK
It’s a very pretty bike and I enjoy riding it despite the aggressive gearing, but it’s not a Condor, its a Pearson.
I very possibly sold and built that when I worked there, I was the store manager between 1986 and 2001. That looks like a Columbus frame tube sticker? If yes the frames were made by Simocini with Columbus SL main tubes, we bought them in batches of about 50 or so from Ceeway Marketing.

I recall I would have a few painted and built as show bikes then the customer could choose a colour and we would get it painted especially for them either by Vaz Finishes or Colourtech who also applied the Varnish Fix Logos. The BB shell was cut out like that, more so than many BB shells it has to be said and the cable did run against the frame. Regarding the cut out there was normally a plastic shell that protected bearings from the elements, back then BB units were traditional cup and cone.

Lovely to see one again, they were very popular at the time and deservedly so, they were well made frames.

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Paul_Smith SRCC

www.plsmith.co.uk
Location
Surrey UK
Thanks for the interesting information and history @Paul_Smith SRCC . You’ll be pleased to know that, thirty-ish years on from when you built it, the bike never fails to put a smile on my face.
You're welcome, looks very original, 3ttt stem and bars (from Chicken Cycles at the time), Silca pump and Rolls saddle (from JD Whisker) were all items I would have used in the build back then. I'd had hand built those wheels with Ambrosio rims (from RSI) I think I can still see the red 'handbuilt by Pearson Cycles' sticker on the rim?

If I was to try and date the bike I'd say about thirty years, we definitely didn't do them when I first started; we used Tudor Sports, famous at the time for clothing and as you can see they still exist, although with a different owner; back then they also supplied frames. We didn't sell the Simocini built frames towards the end of my time there either, we had been using them as a budget yet good quality frame to compliment the higher spec' UK built frames that we sold at the same time; built for us by M.Steel/Dave Yates. The UK built frames were normally Reynolds 531C for the race frames and 531ST for the Audax fast tourers and were initially more of an investment as they were full Reynolds tube sets, forks included, as opposed to the three main tubes only being Columbus on the Simocini. Over time the prices increased driven by the exchange rate effectively made the Italian built frames the same price as the higher spec" UK frames which made the less far less appealing of course; as a result we stopped supplying them.

I still have two thirty year old Pearson 531 bikes, I'm cycling on one later today!

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Regarding the cable routing if you lubricate the cable channels on the BB shell and clean that section on a regular basis you should find it ok; being so exposed they can get clogged up quite easily. It was pretty much standard to have a bike set up like that back then, it just needs a bit more regular tlc compared to a fully enclosed internal cable. I actually still like bikes like that, far easier to work on and simple and I for one enjoy cleaning and fettling my two wheeled friends, all my bikes even my more recent purchases, like my Van Nicholas Chinook and Yukon below have full external cables; mind you I say recent I bought them thirteen years ago !

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If you are replacing both cables you could also clean up that rusty area carefully with wire wool then use something like hammerite to protect it. The bottom bracket shell is quite thick, eventually steel frames can rust through, normally it will not be the BB shell that gives up though, but none the less I'd still clean that rusty section and treat it; just because I could!
 
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