Weinmann Side Pull Caliper Brakes

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colinr

Well-Known Member
Location
Norwich
Bought a lovely Raleigh Chloe for Ms Colinr but it has Weinmann side-pull calipers and they're awful!

The pads definitely need replacing, will modern V-brake pads fit? e.g. http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=55821

Or even better, are the calipers a standardish size / fitting that can be swapped out for newer ones? How would the rear cabling work as the cable runs up from below? (see pics)

I'm only used to dealing with fancy modern stuff and this is a lot more challenging!

chloe.jpg


weinmann.jpg
 

the snail

Guru
Location
Chippenham
You can buy modern compound inserts for those pads, although that pad looks like it's leather-faced, which is supposed to be good for chrome rims? I would start by adjusting the cables though! If the rims are chrome, then the best upgrade would be to fit alloy rims imo.
 

guitarpete247

Just about surviving
Location
Leicestershire
Looking at 2nd photo new inner cables wouldn't go amiss and adjusting the distance from the rims so she doesn't have to pull too much to make contact with the rims. And remove the suicide levers as they will give less pull and are useless anyway. Otherwise I'd try to keep it as original as you can. If you do want to change the callipers measure the drop from the bolt to the pads for the size you need.
 
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colinr

colinr

Well-Known Member
Location
Norwich
Thanks. They're really hard to adjust, one side pulls better than the other so you end up with one block left touching the rim if the gap is anything less than generous.

I'm not sure how much it will be ridden so don't want to spend money on new rims, but do want her to be able to stop.
 

sidevalve

Über Member
Either new inner cables or adjust out that kink in pic 2 for a start. It will cause a "rubbery" feel. Strip the calipers down and REALLY clean and lube the rubbing surfaces [including the return spring legs] check foe a nylon washer "tween the caliper legs, often missing. Check also the position of the outer cable,these sometimes lack support and end up forcing one side down onto the rim.DON'T give up on the adjustment, it can be a bit fiddly but it should be possible. With leather inserts in the block like yours seem to have this type of brake can be quite ok even on a chrome rim.
 
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colinr

colinr

Well-Known Member
Location
Norwich
I sorted the kink - shortened the cable and snipped the worn end off, it's noticeably smoother now. Adjustments took a while but it's rideable, she won't be going that quick anyway! I'll save stripping the brakes for another quiet weekend. Thanks for the assistance.
 

tyred

Squire
Location
Ireland
These brakes should be perfectly function but will require a lot of hand pressure to work properly.

I wouldn't remove the "suicide levers" either as they do provide a function and make it easy to feather the brakes to lose a little speed. Just be aware that they will not stop well in an emergency.
 

Nebulous

Guru
Location
Aberdeen
I have a late 70s/ early 80s bike with those brakes. I dismantled them, greased the pivot points and fitted them back together. I find they brake pretty well, a bit of judder sometimes, but that could be some rust on the chrome rims. I left on the original cables.

The big big issue is in the wet though. Despite having a strong grip it can be touch and go whether they will stop in time.
 
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colinr

colinr

Well-Known Member
Location
Norwich
They stop well enough at low speeds and I can't see it ever being ridden in anything but glorious sunshine :smile:
Should be ok but will see how they go, I'll dismantle and grease when I've time if they start playing up.
 

HovR

Über Member
Location
Plymouth
In the picture the brake block is way too far away from the rim. If you haven't already, bring it closer.

I have a pair of Weinmann side pulls older than your pair, and with proper adjustement, today they prevented me from running over a foolish woman's dog running with no lead all over the cycle path - Although I had predicted this would happen, and had slowed right down to below 10mph covering the brakes.

And later today they prevented me from going into the back of a car at 22mph. :shy: (Was so preoccupied with keeping check on the idiot close behind me, I was slow to notice the car quickly decelerating in front of me.)

From the drops, a big handful of brake can easily bring the back wheel off the ground, especially in the dry. That said, I'm a fairly lightweight rider, and run alu rims.
 

tyred

Squire
Location
Ireland
From the drops, a big handful of brake can easily bring the back wheel off the ground, especially in the dry. That said, I'm a fairly lightweight rider, and run alu rims.

I think this is the important point about Weinmanns. They are a wonderful brake, but only if you really put a bit of effort into it. It took me a while to realise that too. You need good hand strength to get the best from them.
 

bobg

Über Member
Re the uneven pull, it's usually because the U shaped spring that is the beating heart of the whole thing is not quite central. If it still happens after you've lubricated the pivot points erc give the spring little tap with a hammer and drift ( blunt screwdriver ) that usually centres it, it often only needs to move a mm or so.
 
Can't believe people are waxing lyrical about them. Weinmann or not those are cheap brake calipers on a cheap bike and would not have worked brilliantly well even when new.Do they even have a model code? i suspect not. If the rider is going to be attaining any useful speeds on that bike then for safety's sake either get some better calipers or at the very least fit new cables and some Aztec road brake pads which will 'upgrade' them for a few pounds and give better stopping power..Buying Swisstop pads would be extravagant to say the least on what are 'toyshop' quality brake calipers.
Oh, and if those rims are chrome, i would get rid of them, again for safety's sake.
 

HovR

Über Member
Location
Plymouth
Thanks. They're really hard to adjust, one side pulls better than the other so you end up with one block left touching the rim if the gap is anything less than generous.

I'm not sure how much it will be ridden so don't want to spend money on new rims, but do want her to be able to stop.

Do you mean one brake pad touches the rim first, and then the other one follows, when the lever is pulled? If so, that is fine on single pivot brakes such as these.

Or if you mean that one brake pad is always touching the rim unless the gap is large, then you can adjust this by fiddling with the bolt/nut that secures the caliper on the other side of the frame (or fork).
 
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