Waxing your chain tips?

Page may contain affiliate links. Please see terms for details.

Heltor Chasca

Out-riding the Black Dog
Interesting. The TrainerRoad team swear by waxed chains and their results and FTP are way above the average. I think I heard one of them say in a podcast that they were getting an additional ‘free’ 10 watts effIciency from wax.

When I tried liquid wax from a bottle, I ended up with crud on the jockey wheels and between the links so I would love to know how it’s done too.

Keep us posted.
 

Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
A few blasts from the past (edited and my emboldening):
. . . bicycle chains are a bushingless design that requires a flow lubricant.
. . . any oil used on a bicycle chain that does not turn black with use is also not suitable.

A bicycle chain, or motorbike chain for that matter, undergoes two different work cycles; the tension cycle and the return run. On a bicycle the tension cycle is the part on top, from where the chain departs the rear sprocket to where it enters the front sprocket. Any link in this cycle experiences only tension. As soon as the link goes around the front chainring it starts to relax and enters the return run where it remains in relative slack until it turns the corner around the top of the cassette again.
He goes on:
"During the tension cycle oil between the bushing and pin is squeezed out of the interface and on the return run oil returns again. Oil thus flows in and out. The inflow is by way of capillary action and the outflow is because the capillary is squeezed and the fluid moves elsewhere. The black you so quickly see on the chain is steel particles ground off inside the chain when it articulates under tension. The reason the black oil can eventually be seen is evidence that the oil flows as you pedal.

"Should you apply wax to the chain then the tension cycle squeezes the wax out but it cannot flow back in. We see evidence of this in the wax that settles on the pulleys and outside of the chain sideplates. The wax wasn't applied there, it moved there. However, it cannot move back. The chain doesn't turn black, which means that the grit remains inside and also that the insides are running without the aid of lubricant.

"Bicycle chains are open and liquids can freely flow in and out. It is easy to wash a chain and completely clean out the insides and replace with fresh oil and this should be done frequently if you care about chain life.

"As I explained earlier on, a suitable chain lubricant is oil that's neither too thick or too thin and it is easy to find the sweet spot."

I would rather buy Bottle Of Low Lubricating Oil of Chain Saw...or BOLLOCS.

Can then do Wet BOLLOCS or Dry BOLLOCS versions.
Different sizes. Large BOLLOCS or Small BOLLOCS.
Different climates. Hot BOLLOCS or Cold BOLLOCS.
Then differentiate the product a bit. Sticky BOLLOCS.
Indoor trainer version. Sweaty BOLLOCS.
Finally, sell it in bulk...Load of BOLLOCS.

Combining the names when ordering Starbucks style, could be fun. "I will have a Load of Large Hot Wet Sweaty BOLLOCS, along with one Small Cold Dry BOLLOC please."

Wax products, whether applied by way of dissipating solvent or the melt method are very poor, short-lived lubricants. The fact that they remain clean means that they don't suspend and transport metal wear particles. Avoid at all cost.
 

Shut Up Legs

Down Under Member
When the wax dries out it'll have a hard time sticking to the metal of the chain and so will flake off leaving the chain with bugger all lube.
A wet oil stays wet and doesn't just fall off the chain.
No, instead it attracts every bit of airborne dirt anywhere near the the bike, and the chain wears out sooner. Light oil is better, even though it needs to be applied more often.
 

Kryton521

Über Member
I'm firmly in the "wax" camp. Paraffin wax, 500gms from Amazon, paraffin from home base. I've ordered PTFE to add to the mix.

The ratio of wax to paraffin is roughly 1:1 although you can keep checking the mix as in videos posted before.

The PTFE goes on, dries and stays in place lubricating/smoothing the links. If you get the mix right, the wax doesn't flake off. The cleaning of the chain, as in, a really good deep clean, soaking it in petrol for X number of hours is smelly and hazardous, or can be, gloves etc.
Best to have a 2nd, prepped chain to replace with the one you're working on.

Finally, wet here in Wales, still had no issues with waxing but had numerous with lubes of all kinds. Stopping mid ride to re-lube in pouring rain??? Oh great! :cursing:
 

wafter

I like steel bikes and I cannot lie..
Location
Oxford
I've had positive experiences of waxing, although it's not without its shortcomings too. FWIW, broad strokes as concisely as possibly for anyone interested:

Process
- Mixture is 2/3rds paraffin wax, 1/3rd liquid paraffin by mass, with a bit of moly disulphide powder chucked in.
- Chain removed and cleaned by shaking vigourosly in successive coffee jars of clean paraffin (can be re-used once particulates have sedimented out).
- Chain immersed in wax in pan on hob and agitated for 10-15 mins. Important that mixture doesn't go above 75ish degrees C to reduce risk of fire. Safer to use rice cooker / water bath. Ensure everything is well ventilated.
- After sufficient time, heat source removed and wax left to cool, chain removed when wax close to solidification (maybe around 50 degrees C).
- Chain hung to cool and excess wax on outside removed with kitchen towel (these make good firelighters ;) ).

Experiences
- Chain remains ridiculously clean and doesn't attract any dry contamination as oil does.
- Before re-waxing minimal cleaning is required if only used in dry conditions - just a brush-over to remove any loose dust then straight into the molten wax again - a lot less involved and messy than trying to clean a dirty, gritty, oily drivetrain with degreasers, rags and brushes.
- Chain is slightly more noisy it terms of "clatter" as parts mesh (presumably because it's less damped), but doesn't feel dry or squeak (until re-application is required).
- In dry conditions I'm getting about 300-350 miles on a waxed chain before it starts to squeak.
- For the first few miles wax does flake off the chain and end up deposited on the frame, but this is pretty easy to brush / wipe off.
- Wax doesn't provide as much corrosion protection to the chain as oil, either on exterior or interior surfaces; meaning the chain degrades and starts to squeak sooner in wet conditions.

Conclusions
While from the above its benefits appear limited to its cleanliness (a big one IMO), I expect to see improved chain life since unlike wet lubes it doesn't collect potentially abrasive, particulate contamination; nor should there be any exchange of lube between the loaded surfaces inside the chain and external surfaces. As a result there's no opportunity for contamination to migrate inside the chain and accelerate wear. I've not done enough miles to confirm chain life currently..

Another common claim regarding waxed chains is reduced frictional losses, however I don't have the sensitivity or equipment to qualify / measure this, so can't comment either way.

IMO waxing is great on a fine-weather bike that has an easily removable chain (I use Wippermann quick links). Due to its apparently inferior corrosion protection it appears unsuitable for all-weather / wet riding, while those doing a lot of miles might find it easier to "top up" their chain with wet lube periodically between deeper cleaning / re-lubrication.

It may be that the properties of my wax can be improved by further playing with the mixture ratios; @Kryton521 seems to have had better experiences re. corrosion protection than I have; perhaps because he uses a larger proportion of paraffin oil so the mixture is thinner and less brittle, so less prone to flaking off.
 
Last edited:

fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
Sounds like a right faff TBH. I use Muck Off wet lube, lasts long enough on 4 hour muddy/wet rides. Hose off chain, re-lube and wipe. Occasionally I drop the chain into a tub with screwfix 'no nonsense degeaser' - fantastic stuff.

Not keen on dry lubes as they tend to leave the chain, sprockets etc claggy with a waxy residue and it's more difficult to clean up.
 

Slick

Guru
I use wax on my chain and have done for around a year or more and even I'm not sure yet if it's better or not.
 

Kryton521

Über Member
Footnote? After a wet ride I use paper towel to dry the chain, then a rag, once as can be. I rub over the chain with a lump of wax/paraffin chopped out of the slow cooker. Seems to hold off the rust until the next big clean and re-wax.

Yes it is a faff. But I like it. Being completely useless at DIY and daren't tinker with the bike in any other way this makes me feel better about me! :becool:
 

PaulSB

Squire
I keep my chain, cassette, rings and jockey wheels clean. Lube using the Mickle method. After a ride wipe with an oily cloth as soon as I get home. In wet weather a quick wash with the hosepipe and lube when dry if necessary.

Everything is always clean. Takes five minutes at most per ride. I really can't see the point in mucking about with wax every 300km - that's once every 7-10 days for me.
 

heliphil

Guru
Location
Essex
I've been waxing my race bike chains for 2 or 3 years now - can't say they are definitely better but they certainly aren't worse and do stay nice and clean. I have sold wax to a few friends and they are happy too.
 

alicat

Squire
Location
Staffs
I don't understand why posters resurrect old threads just to state an opinion and thereby encourage rehashing of the same old arguments. Has the science or technology changed in the meantime? :whistle:
 

fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
I keep my chain, cassette, rings and jockey wheels clean. Lube using the Mickle method. After a ride wipe with an oily cloth as soon as I get home. In wet weather a quick wash with the hosepipe and lube when dry if necessary.

Everything is always clean. Takes five minutes at most per ride. I really can't see the point in mucking about with wax every 300km - that's once every 7-10 days for me.

This ^^^, aren't old cotton t-shirts fab for this job. - The ones you get given as presents, last 2 washes before going out of shape. :laugh:
 

LeetleGreyCells

Un rouleur infatigable
I was looking at this yesterday on Wiggle and Amazon (it's cheaper on Wiggle before postage, more expensive after (depending what else you are buying on Amazon!):

Squirt Chain Lube - Wiggle Amazon

Squirt-Chain-Lube-120ml-Lubrication-SQ01.jpg

Wax-based for any cycling conditions or so it says.
 
Top Bottom