W

[Roger Longbottom]

W

 

[Cycleops]

Same tool for both sides. Drive side removes clockwise.
While your about it I'd consider changing the BB to a Hollowtech or square taper, I believe the Octalink ones are prone to coming loose. Octalink 2 is not so bad as it's tapered. They need to be torqued to a high value. Both are now discontinued.

 

[mrandmrspoves]

Looks like a standard square taper cassette so the whole thing unscrews using the drive side in your top picture. It is not Octalink (that has a different crank spindle pattern but the same tool would remove the cassette) and a Shimano compatible tool will do the job.

 

[midlife]

Is that something like a shimano un55 ?

 

[mickle]

It's a cartridge sealed unit. Don't bother removing it until you want to replace it.

 

[sleuthey]

If there's nothing wrong with it don't fix it? I would only go removing it if it has excessive play, is noisy or the wrong size for your drivetrain. If it's a sealed cartridge as others state then you won't be able to grease anything inside it

 

[Racing roadkill]

A standard square taper removal tool like this.
https://www.wiggle.co.uk/lifeline-x-tools-bb-tool-octalinksquare/
Will do it.

 

[ChrisEyles]

Same tool to remove octalink/square taper. They can be effing tight... I have had to use a bench vise gripping the removal tool and turn the frame as a big lever to get a couple out. Not difficult to do - unless you don't have a bench vise.

If there's no play and it turns smoothly, no need to replace.

The splines on the removal tool are quite shallow, so watch they're fully engaged as you're heaving on the spanner as you don't really want it to slip while you're wrestling with it.

 

[Cycleops]

Sorry, my eyes! It is a square taper. As you were.

 

[Blue Hills]

It's a cartridge sealed unit. Don't bother removing it until you want to replace it.

Disagree. Strongly.

A good idea to remove cartridge BBs carefully (and replace carefully) now and again and regrease. It's possible for them to seize in place otherwise.

Square tapers are so damn reliable that waiting until it needs replacing may mean you can't get it out.

Happened to me with my first proper bike.

Luckily a bike shop was able to extract it and save my frame.

I would always remove a cartridge BB on a bike soon after buying it. And cover threads in grease.

 

[ChrisEyles]

Haha, that's probably why I've had to break out the bench vice on mine!

I'm still too lazy to take them out to regrease preventatively though 😚

 

[Cycleops]

This was my original thinking as it could have been in there 20 years with no one giving it a by your leave.

They can go on for intergalatic mileages without a murmur.

 

[I like Skol]

Grease the threads when fitting and go tight but not stupid tight when wound in. Otherwise leave alone until it needs replacing.

 

[Blue Hills]

Grease the threads when fitting and go tight but not stupid tight when wound in. Otherwise leave alone until it needs replacing.

disagree with your second sentence as my point above.

On tightness, if it's very very tight it may have been misthreaded. You have to be very careful putting BBs in to check that don't do this. Very easily done. As you start to screw one in, check the other side (where you will put the sleeve) to check that the thing seems properly centred in the frame's BB shell (or whatever it is called)

 

[12boy]

Remember the right side threads are reversed. A lefty-loosey aproach will tighten the drive side. The left side is regular. Greasing the BB threads is a good idea.